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The Wines

100% Marsanne (1985-87) from clay-limestone, loess soils on the higher slopes of Beylesse (S-E facing) at 160-180 metres, 0-100% steel vat, 0-30% new, 70-80% 1-2-3-4 year 228 & 225-litre oak cask fermented at 16°C, raised 11 months, lees stirring at first, but not during winter, malo completed, filtered, 1,153-4,552 b


shiny, pretty full yellow robe; the nose is buttery, shows oak with a peach fruit jam inlay, a nudge of apricot and ginger. The attack is rich but fluid, wells up on persistent white fruits with a glazed ripeness about them, oak appearing once more on the finish. It’s just starting to get together, has ways to go. It’s a sizeable St-Péray for drinking with spiced dishes, full flavours. There is a hint of local minerality on the aftertaste, which helps it. 13.5°. 4,829 b. Harvested 11 September. 2027-29 Dec 2020

2018 ()

yellow robe, glints of low gold, a robe with a rich aspect. The nose is broad, carries overt fullness, ripeness, has soaked up the sun rays of 2018. There is a brioche, baked bread, presence, and a note of ripe apricot. There’s more to come, and it will benefit from decanting. The palate is rich at the outset, has a hefty content, piled high with white fruits, peach and nutty flavours. It’s more obviously weighty than many St-Pérays this year, needs a rich, sauced companion à table: truffled scrambled eggs would be a good start. 13°. 4,552 b. 2028-29 Nov 2019

2017 ()

pale yellow. Has a soft, welcoming nose, peach and pear roundness, a wee spot of vanilla and nut paste. It’s a nice relaxed opening. The palate gives a pliant display of white fruits, compote or stewed fruits, the flavour also featuring roast almonds, greengage plum. There’s decent grip on the finish. 13°. €17.50. 2023-24 Dec 2018

2014 ()

pale yellow. The nose leads on apricot juice, notably honey. The palate gives flan, brioche baked bread, pear flavours, has a gentle freshness and acidity. This holds quiet fluid gras, goes along calmly. There is nice late grip. 13.5°. All steel vat fermented, raised this year. €16. 2,291 b. To 2019  Dec 2015


full yellow robe, a rich aspect, legs in view. This has a ripe nose, a flan, brioche aroma fronts it up, with a low-key mandarin freshness below that. The palate starts richly, immediately, offers a good, genuine ball of fat flavour, struts its stuff. The gras is most enjoyable, and this would go very well pieds and paquets, sweetbreads, Vieille France dishes, as well cheeses such as Brie, Vacherin, soft cheeses. It has a white raisin note of intensity as it ends. Very good, with commendable freshness; the unusually high quality of the Marsanne is demonstrated through its smoothness of texture and suave length. 14°. 2,492 b. 2020-21  Jan 2015

2012 ()

oaked looking yellow robe. The lead aroma reflects orange fruit, a near marmalade style, with peach present. This is a broad nose, sets out to impress, gives signs of near overripeness of the crop. This is a meaty white wine, has tannic sides, is closed for now. Hazelnut and brioche baked bread fit into the flavour. Drink with sauced dishes, white meats – it lacks the subtlety for precise cuisine. It presents its block of flavour – there you go. Decant and wait – wait until past its first youth, drink from 2016. 13.5°. 3,200 b. €15.50 at cellars. 2020-21  Nov 2013


mid-depth yellow; prominent oak, butter behind it, a bit of damp wool, “high” airs, with the fruit ripe. The palate has a rich interior with oak running through it, and just a bit prominent. Has sound gras and local minerality, the latter encouraged by its cool site. Good, but 15%+ less oak would be welcome. It is STGT beyond the oak. From spring 2011. 13.5°. To 2015. July 2010