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The Wines

100% Syrah (late 1990s, early 1980s) from pebbly clay-limestone soils on Grand Champ & Poulon at Beaumont-Monteux, destemmed, 1 week cool macération carbonique, then 2 week vinification, 1 part vat emptying/refilling, twice daily pumping overs, 3-4 cap punchings, raised 33-50% steel/concrete vat, 50-67% 3-6 year 600-litre oak casks 11-13 months (2015 15 months), unfined, filtered, “I seek spices and fruit”, 4-14,700 b


(vat/casks) rather shiny, dark robe. The nose gives a curvy aroma of blueberry, mulberry style fruit, has certain depth, still a little mystery to unfurl. The palate starts on fruit gum flavours, develops a lozenge-like sweetness, with firm tannins following. It has an inky side to it, requires time to smarten up its act. The aftertaste is a bit exerted, the tannins a touch abrupt. From 2022. 2029-31 Nov 2019 Previously Nov 2018 ***(*) (vat) dark red; the nose swings along on black cherry, blackberry, a hint of black olive – it has foundation, isn’t just all early Rock n’Roll. On the palate I notice the summer gras, is expansive, layered, ends with some salinity. It’s a substantial Crozes, will benefit from good, long raising. There’s plenty in the glass, will drink well with beef. This isn’t a simple, free wheeling Crozes – it’s on the limit vis-à-vis its ripeness. 2029-30 Nov 2018

2017 ()

(concrete vat/casks, bottling Jan 2019) dark red. Has a live, welcoming nose, shows black olives that are typical of Beaumont-Monteux, nice flash in the fruit, with licorice, open spicing. The black cherry fruit on the palate is expressive, vigorous, hands out salted late moments, floral touches; it travels with gusto, is nice and racy, has steady depth at the end. I sense a tiny bit of Volatile, but that isn’t a major issue. 2024-25 Nov 2018


(vat/casks) full red. The nose is sweet and curvy, shows grilling, prune fruit, Dundee cake, soaked black fruits. The palate has a little grilled, meaty angle on the attack, holds steady gras richness, lengthens soundly. There is an attractive line of salt freshness through it, and the finish rocks along well, on the up. 13°. 14,700 b. 2023-24 Nov 2017


(casks/steel vat) shiny, deep robe. The nose wells up into a concerted point of black berry fruit, with the sweetness of the summer sun at its heart. The palate also offers sunny, gourmand black fruits with a rubber-tar element within. The tannins are flexible, almost worked on already. It’s a plump, obvious wine that feels a little extracted. 12.5°. 11,000 b. €13.50 at the cellars. From spring 2017. 2022-23 Oct 2016


has a dark and shiny robe. There is a cassis/ blackcurrant, blueberry, mulled fruits aroma, with an inkiness of depth: this is a pretty fluid style of bouquet. The fruit is immediate on the palate, a loose, clear blueberry with some live wire tannins in tow. This is a dentelle, fresh wine, all in the present ; it can be drunk solo. It states the crisp 2013 case accurately. 12.5°. €14.70 at the cellars. Only 4,000 b this year, hail hit. To 2018 - it is all about its youth. Jan 2015


dark robe, black tints. Toasted, grilled air, air of prune and black berry fruit, with some oaking. The palate sets off on an ensemble of blackberry and violet; it finishes on rather Spartan grain moments. The fruit doesn’t convince vis-à-vis its raising, and struggles on the finish. From mid-2014. 12.5°. 5,500 b. To 2017  Nov 2013

2011 ()

dark robe, is full. Has a wide, wavy air of black fruit, with a plump centre – the nose shows “high” fruit, reduction, beef stock, meat gravy depth. This has an orb-like palate: a rolling ball of prune, blackberry fruit with a sweet heart, comfortable tannins. It provides plenty to taste and drink alongside lamb, for instance, even spiced dishes thanks to its fat. Gives late spice, chocolate. It tones down to an orderly, fine grain close. 12.5°. 4,000 b this year. 2018-19  Nov 2012