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The Wines

90-100% Marsanne (1920s, 1947-48), 0-10% Roussanne from two plots on the kaolin, white clay soils of Larnage – hence the name K – fermented used 228-litre oak cask, raised 11-12 months, malo completed, first wine 2001, “gives very tight, even pinched, not large wines”


shiny, quite full yellow robe; Has a hay-butter aroma, toasting, white plum, a varied intricacy, food clarity at its centre. The spine through the palate works well, gives spearmint, with fine detail inside something of a mass of content, but that not overdone. There are fluid, mineral surrounds, a firm inner, chewy notes on the close. It’s interesting, holds good fibre, character, is STGT with the spine along it that I associate with the kaolin. The juice is only on partial release for now, the aftertaste grainy. Decant it. From 2021. 2035-37 Nov 2019

2017 No Rating


2015 No Rating


2014 ()

bright yellow robe. Has a cosy white peach, flan aroma, cooked lime and butter, hazelnut, roasted nuts, praline – this is a bouquet of good style, and is very Marsanne in nature. The palate delivers a steady ball of gras, with brisk, tight length after a plump, jam-like mid-palate. Has good late grip, nice and tight. 13°. Bottled 5 Sept 2015. 2021-22 Dec 2015

2011 ()

the yellow robe has intensified. The nose is careful, on aniseed, with peach stone, citrus, orange zest. The palate has a grippy debut, fleshy content at its centre – it never loses its grip style tang, fused freshness, ending with lift; it takes off on spearmint, quince. It’s a salty, naked wine of character. 13°. 100% Marsanne. 2027-28 Nov 2018

2007 ()

attractive, bright pale yellow; impressive, forward nose that shows quince, citrus, live and free airs, pineapple – it has a long trail. Fascinating combo of exotic fruit, lime, guava and butter on the palate; there are brioche moments, too. It shows great finesse in the later stages, ending on a fine grip. Great with smoked salmon – the wine both gives and takes well with its oily, smoky qualities. The finale is good and crisp. An exotic wine, out of the loop, and popular drinking on a Big Occasion (drunk on Christmas Day) – save it for that, as it is £27. Ignore the odd particle floating in the bottle. 13°. 2016-17 Dec 2010


stylish, warm cooked fruits/light honey aroma; surprising palate at first, seems oxidative but air helps it. Praline, dried grapes/apricot mix. Was more savoury earlier in life. 2008-10


salty/citrus refined nose, ripe; dried white fruits, gentle texture, bit bitter, fair length. More rich from 2005, light oak at end. 2010-12