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The Wines

75-85% Grenache (1920, 1940), 5-10% Mourvèdre (1973), 2-5% Cinsault, 3-13% Syrah (1970s/1980s), Counoise, Muscardin from clay-limestone soils across Le Pointu (N-E), Les Galimardes (S-E), Les Blaquières (E), Les Marines (S), La Font du Pape (N-E), Les Terres Blanches (N), Montolivet (N-E), 70-90% destemmed, 3-4 week steel vat vinification at 26°C, pumping overs, some vat emptying/refilling and manual cap punching, aged 30-35% 30 hl large barrel, 40-45% 1-5 year 228-litre oak casks, 20% 1-4 year 500-litre oak casks, 10-15% steel vat 15-20 months, 2 bottlings, March & late August, unfined, unfiltered, 10,000-13,500 b

2019 ()

(vat, sugars completed, malo not) level red colour; the nose is nicely dense, holds well, has layered depth, garrigue airs. The palate is serious, filled, stretches out on ripe, live tannins. There’s plenty here – it’s well fuelled, holds much content, the fruit thick and upbeat. There is some gasp from degree at the end. 23 years Oct 2019

2018 ()

several elements 1) (30 hl barrel, mainly Grenache) ***(*) shiny red; has an openly fruited red fruit air, strawberry and cherry, thyme, rosemary. The palate is supple, tasty, holds very clear fruit, is lightweight Châteauneuf but charming and fluid, enjoyable, has a good thread of fruit. It gains a little bedding on the close. 14.5°. 17 years 2) (used 228-litre cask, similar to the previous 30 hl barrel, also mainly Grenache) ***(*) red robe; latent reduction on the nose, simmered red fruits. The palate also holds enjoyable fruit, more sweetness, a bit thicker than the previous due to the higher oaking. The length is sound. 16-18 years 3) (used 228-litre cask, 50% Gren, 50% Syrah) ***(*) darkish red; blackberry/raspberry with liqueur notions on the nose. The palate gives a nice wave of mixed fruits, some spike in the tannins. It lengthens surely, holds well. 18-19 years 4) (used 500-litre cask, mainly Grenache) **** red robe; there is a nice panorama given by the bouquet, wider than the others, red fruits, herbs. There’s joli purity in the palate fruit, on the button Grenache expression, is Châteauneuf to its core, is a great, ace do with fine tannins, time for the, to fuse well 20 years 5) (2-year 228-litre cask, mainly Grenache) *** red robe; oak shows on the nose, and a slight clash with the cherry fruit. The palate is compact, leans towards munchy, the content squeezy, and some demanding tannin on the end. 16 years 2036-38 Oct 2019

2017 ()

red robe; crushed pistachio nutshells, red cherry, a coulis of red berry lead the nose with thyme, herbs on the scene, too. The palate gives enjoyable early juice, declares well, runs smoothly, the fruit has lift. This has a naked style, pings with clarity, holds light aromatic couches, detail on the close. It’s unforced, natural. From spring 2021 for a bit more expansion. It’s 70% Gren (usual 80%), 13% Syr, 12% Mourv, 3-4% Cins, 1-2% various, 70% destemmed (usual 80%). “You can drink this young with rib of beef, or later a daube or Boeuf Bourguignon, roast chicken,” Aurélie Nury. 2035-37 Oct 2019


bright red robe; cherry fruit, raspberry liqueur, nutshells, a crunch of herbs, dried thyme, licorice – this is a mixed bouquet that carries sparkle, interest, is only just en route. The palate starts with an elegant gras, red cherry fruit central to it, runs with good breeze and a pick up of fresh tannins, pumice stone towards the finish. It can expand its middle. Spices come through if you wait past the first fruit. It has good, discreet persistence, is another wine in the naked style de la maison.  “It has re-closed down – wait until 2021,” Daniel Nury. 14.5°. Bottled 30 Aug 2018. 2034-36 Oct 2019 Previously Oct 2017 ****(*) (vat/casks, bottling March 2018) full red colour. The bouquet is intense, layers of black cherry and blueberry fruit, dried black raisins, presented with a sunny ripeness. The palate is smooth throughout, holds a savoury, appetising black fruited content, with a trail of ripe tannins well inset. It ends with a swish of fruit, on the go, and memorable. It’s genuine and handsome, a real STGT winner. 14.5°. 13,500 b. 80% Gren, 8% Mourv, 7% Syr,3% Cins, 2% Counoise, Muscardin. €16. From 2020. 2032-35 Oct 2017


(barrel/casks/vat) shiny dark red robe, black touches. The bouquet has an implicit energy via salted airs entwined with blueberry fruit, flashes of licorice and dried black raisin. There is a broad mass to be contemplating. The palate is wide, coated and sustained, bears butty, ripe matter with a stream of perky tannins that add bite to the close. It’s very young, but the potential is there for a full, convincing glass. It’s well grounded as it finishes, and will be suited to red meats, game dishes. Decanting a good move. From 2019-20. 2031-34 Sept 2016

2014 ()

(vat/casks) clear dark red. The nose has an inky air with a Marmite, sub Vegemite undertone, a sense of entrails and herbs at the same time, a baked severity. Raspberry fruit is present. The palate delivers crunchy red fruit with good life and a rocky carry towards the peppery finish. This is still unformed, a little jagged, but can come together. It is a crisp, decisive 2014. 14.5°. 10,000 b. From 2018. 2028-29  Oct 2015


(vat/casks) medium purple colour. Has a dusty nose that smells like musty barrels. This effect follows through on the palate, which finishes dry, hard and lean. 14.5°. From 2016. 75% Gren, lower than usual. Harvested 28 September. 2020-21 JL Oct 2014

2012 ()

(vat/casks, bottling March 2014) bright, quite dark colour. Prune, soaked Victoria plums aroma, a small note of pine bringing a clipped angle, smoke and burn, pepper and vegetal airs also present in the nose. The palate is tight, tense; there is a peppered, grainy imposition on its black fruit, front of mouth acidity. It is in a very primary state. The fruit shows cool lozenge moments; it needs to knit, and isn’t in that zone yet. From  late 2015. 80% Gren, 10% Syr, 5% Mourv, 3% Coun, Muscardin, 2% Cins this year. €16. 14.5°. 2027-29  Nov 2013


steady red. Has a broad, largely open bouquet – it offers red fruit that has dark tints, smoke and bacon present, and thyme and mint local airs. The palate is easy-fruited, the fruit red. Tasty and open Châteauneuf that is drinkable young. It picks up extra darkness and depth via a small clutch of tannin on the last stages. It is an open book wine, has limited depth, and skates along in the 2011 fashion. From spring 2014. 14.5°. 2021-22  Dec 2012


(vat) rather dark. Has a broad nose, even unyielding for now, and it is still connected to its lees. There are notes of prune, leather implied, and it offers a window into the garrigue. The palate is compact, rounded, its tannins ripe and smoothly inset until the finish. It can unfurl with time, display more. Has an authentic, STGT leaning, while the sign-off reflects the notes of silex and ash that I associate with the vintage. It needs two years to shuffle its tannins into place on the finish. From late 2013 or 2014. Good value at €16 at the cellars. 2029-31 Dec 2011


(vat/casks) modest robe; wide, chunky air, cherry eau de vie - this is potent, comes with herbs in behind some baked red fruit. The palate starts on the latent fire, skips in mid-palate where I would want the security of gras richness, ends rather on the fire, with curl on the finish. Rough n`ready now, needs to polish up. From 2013. 2023-25 Oct 2010

2008 ()

mild red robe, bit transparent. Raw bouquet – has “green”, slightly lactic airs, is not a whole. Fleeting red fruit on the palate, which lacks stuffing, runs without conviction. Spot of late heat. Dilute wine. from mid-2010. 2015-16 Dec 2009

2006 ()

quite full, bright red robe; the nose is drawn in, cautious, above a round, herbal underlay and enclosed red fruits that have a little bite. The palate has a soft, assured start: there is red plum or berry fruit with some lingering, juicy appeal. A very good primary wine that quaffs well now. Ends freshly and roundly. An early style of wine, great with grilled foods, barbecues. Has really settled since last tasted, accelerated its softness. 14.5°. 2020-22 June 2008 Previously Nov 2007 **** (casks) dark red with some black in the robe; the bouquet carries black fruit, with biscuity touches and raisin elements, is a ripe do, there is plenty here: the black fruit has an oily air. The palate kicks off with black fruits, with some violet and herbal garrigue in them. Has lots of supple appeal with good subsequent tannic direction, the tannins peppery but ripe. Has potential since its balance is good. I also like the kick in it, it moves along well. Plenty of Châteauneuf heart, is a wholesome wine that is rich and genuine. 2022-25 Nov 2007

2003 ()

(casks) compact, varnish, plum and floral bouquet; the palate fruit veers between round and tight across the 5 casks, with an oily texture present, with some tannin on the finish. Oak comes through on some of the casks tasted. The wine is quite wide, but the fruit is a bit low-key. 7-9 years of life. Sept 2004


floating, floral nose; there is fair, soft red fruit on the palate, with more early than later. Red jam and fruit gums denote the flavour. It narrows down after half way, and is small wine. Now to 2006. Sept 2004


soft, jammed nose - red berries with an earthy air, generally elegant aroma. The palate is bit over mid-weight, and some tannin comes through. Quite a plain wine, but nicely hearty. Licorice and tannin bring extra darkness on the finish. The texture is oily, not bad. Drink now to 2018. 13.5°. Sept 2004

2000 ()

earthy, fairly soaked black fruit aroma with nice life in it. This has nice stuffing on the palate, the start shows interesting, live black fruit. Grows through the palate, has a good, consecutive flow. Broad on the finish with punchy stone fruits and olives mixed up. 2016-18 Sept 2004

1998 ()

pretty bouquet, with plum and licorice, is broad and harmonious. The palate is round and reflects nice Grenache, its floral side; the cooked fruits are pretty with some tannic hauteur. Good, clear definition, is drinking well now. 15°. 2016-18 Sept 2004