2016 VACQUEYRAS REDS
IRRIGATION OF YOUNG GRENACHE NEXT TO 1955 GRENACHE OF CHÂTEAU DES ROQUES ON LES GARRIGUES SUD
VACQUEYRAS is a frustrating appellation, given that it ascended to cru status as long ago as 1990. It still lacks a really solid bedrock of reliable domaines, where quality is assured from one year to the next. CAIRANNE, by contrast, only three years’ old as a cru, can offer around 25 domaines of trustworthy standards. After all, they were the top two CÔTES DU RHÔNE VILLAGES in 1989, but CAIRANNE took forever, amidst local arguments, to deposit its application.
GIGONDAS, cru from 1971, did not hit the ground running, either, but I feel there is way more than 19 years’ worth of extra expertise and accomplishment between the two appellations, and also more of a noticeable sense of togetherness across the vigneron and vigneronne community of GIGONDAS. Impetus there has come in the form of a terroir map several years ago now, consciousness of different soils across the appellation, tourism [admittedly from a beauty and allure angle, it’s GIGONDAS 5 VACQUEYRAS 0], outdoor picnics and food events, walks, cycling, even the book on GIGONDAS with which I collaborated. VACQUEYRAS has very few runs on the board in comparison.
2016: VERY SUCCESSFUL
While starting on a downbeat note, therefore, it is worth stating that 2016 is a successful vintage for VACQUEYRAS. The leading names have done well, and peeking out are some names off the usual track that are promising. From a merchant’s point of view, there was sound enough wine available to allow the likes of CHAPOUTIER to present accomplished, **** level wine in 2016.
HELD BACK BY UNEVEN CO-OPERATIVE QUALITY
Every southern appellation needs a thriving, high grade CO-OPERATIVE, and for decades VACQUEYRAS has been let down by the indifferent quality of the CAVE DE VACQUEYRAS, along with a real muddle for the consumer over its many different cuvées that seem to change identity almost every vintage. The name VIGNERONS DE CARACTÈRE was a joke, for starters.
Harvesting policies that have allowed cropping far too late for the SYRAH in some instances, and a general lack of precision in approach have weighed it down. I have long thought that marketing drove its business model rather than the pursuit of good wines with all the beneficial consequences that they can bring. The share of the wine from the CO-OPERATIVE has fallen from a historic 55% to under 40% now, by the way, an indication of the number of people exiting it and setting up on their own.
RHONÉA, VACQUEYRAS & BEAUMES TOGETHER: A NEW DAWN?
Whether the fusion with the superior quality CAVE DE BEAUMES-DE-VENISE into one entity called RHONÉA has been the catalyst, but hey, presto, in 2016 some better quality wines have emerged from RHONÉA, and my sincere hope is that this is not just a flash in the pan thanks to a very high calibre vintage. Two are even STGT wines! We shall see, since 2017 was a testing vintage in the vineyard, as has been 2018 thus far.
The President of the GROWERS’ UNION, the SYNDICAT DES VIGNERONS, is JACKY BERNARD of DOMAINE LA LIGIÈRE; he was a Co-operateur until 2010, and his domaine now covers nearly 60 hectares in the hands of his son PHILIPPE. They work with VACQUEYRAS, BEAUMES-DE-VENISE, GIGONDAS, CÔTES DU RHÔNE and IGP VAUCLUSE vineyards. They are also organic, the level of official organic practices being around 20% across VACQUEYRAS.
TOTAL VINEYARD AREA
According to JACKY, the vineyards run to 1,420 hectares, with 70-80 hectares always being replanted. It can go up to 1,600 hectares with 1,500 of those planted. So the area is not far off being full up.
TOTAL VOLUME, MERCHANT INVOLVEMENT
In terms of quantity, in 2017, a low harvest year, there were 39,000 HL of VACQUEYRAS, while 2016 produced 46,000 HL. About 15%, or 8-10,000 HL, is sold in bulk to the merchant trade. Leading names in the négociant trade are, from the NORTHERN RHÔNE, CHAPOUTIER [**** in 2016], DELAS ***(*), and VIDAL-FLEURY **(*), with PAUL JABOULET AÎNÉ historically one of the better sources.
From the SOUTHERN RHÔNE, merchants include ARNOUX VIEUX CLOCHER CLASSIC [30-40% purchased crop] ****, SKALLI BONPAS GRAND CARTULAIRE ****, MAISON BOUACHON PIERRELONGUE ****, GABRIEL MEFFRE SAINT-BARTHELEMY ****, LAVAU ***, BASTIDE ST DOMINIQUE RÉSERVE ***(*), and TARDIEU-LAURENT VIEILLES VIGNES ****. To have *** to **** wines across this group is testament to the high quality of 2016.
CHEAP PRICING DETRIMENTAL TO IMAGE
However, pricing is a contentious issue, with a negative impact on the image of the appellation thanks to VACQUEYRAS red at €6 in supermarkets from the RHONÉA CO-OPERATIVE, and that cannot be good for the standing of the appellation.
2017 VINTAGE PRICE COMPARISONS VACQUEYRAS-CAIRANNE-GIGONDAS
In terms of comparisons, VACQUEYRAS stands between GIGONDAS and CAIRANNE in price, the differential with CAIRANNE more surprising than the scale of that with GIGONDAS. In JULY, 2018, the bulk price per HL [100 litres] of the three for the 2017 vintage of red wine was CAIRANNE €264, VACQUEYRAS €483, the VACQUEYRAS ORGANIC price €509, with GIGONDAS 2017 at €715.
2016 VINTAGE PRICE COMPARISONS VACQUEYRAS-CAIRANNE-GIGONDAS
For the 2016 vintage, the comparison of prices from APRIL, 2017 was CAIRANNE €252, VACQUEYRAS €437, VACQUEYRAS ORGANIC €474, GIGONDAS €654 per HL. For 2015 at the time, the prices were VACQUEYRAS €430, GIGONDAS €649, CAIRANNE still being partly a VILLAGES for that vintage, so not quoted on its own.
VACQUEYRAS SLIGHTLY HIGHER RISE THAN GIGONDAS
As for trend, the VACQUEYRAS price 2015 to 2017 has risen by 12.3%; the GIGONDAS price 2015 to 2017 has risen by 10.2%.
ORGANIC VACQUEYRAS
Noting that ORGANIC VACQUEYRAS sells for a small 5-8% premium, there is now a good groundswell of organic work at VACQUEYRAS, an unofficial estimate from the growers being 20% now organic.
In this group feature LE CLOS DE CAVEAU [very longtime organic, I harvested the 1974], DOMAINE DES AMOURIERS, DOMAINE CAROBELLE [part of the CAVE DE VACQUEYRAS], DOMAINE LE COLOMBIER, DOMAINE LA GARRIGUE, DOMAINE DE LA GANSE, DOMAINE DE LA JAUFRETTE, DOMAINE LA LIGIÈRE, DOMAINE DE MONTVAC, DOMAINE D’OURÉA, DOMAINE LA SOLÉIADE [part of the CAVE DE VACQUEYRAS], MONTIRIUS [biodynamic also], ROUCAS TOUMBA [does biodynamic treatments, not all, isn’t official], MAS DES RESTANQUES, LE SANG DES CAILLOUX [also biodynamic since 2011], LES SEMELLES DE VENT. Without being officially organic, the CHÂTEAU DE MONTMIRAIL work their vineyard well and correctly.
THE VINEYARDS
Regarding the lie of the vineyards, I favour the zones close to the village, North and West of VACQUEYRAS, where there is limestone and compacted sandstone and some brief slopes that allow varied contours. Domaines of note here are CLOS DES CAZAUX, LA FOURMONE and MONARDIÈRE, with East of the village towards MONTMIRAIL the attractive CLOS DE CAVEAU organic vineyard a good venue.
NORTHERN END TOWARDS GIGONDAS
At the northern end towards GIGONDAS, LES DÉBATS [LA FOURMONE has 12 hectares] is sandy with good limestone, with LES AUGUES [sandstone]. Near the Village are LA PONCHE [flat land, strong clay-limestone, DOMAINE DE LA TOURADE, DOMAINE DU PESQUIER, DOMAINE LA BOUÏSSIÈRE], CAVEAU [stony-limestone, CLOS DU JONCUAS LA FONT DE PAPIER, DOMAINE DE LA JAUFRETTE]. Naturally, these often GIGONDAS-based domaines bring a high standard of winemaking to the table, although their quantities are low.
Another good name is CABRIDON of DOMAINE DE LA GANSE - 1967 GRENACHE, on clay which gets very hard in drought conditions, with limestone. “There is a good micro-ecological system above the RIVER OUVÈZE,” states CORALIE ONDE of DOMAINE DE LA GANSE. It is one of the first sites to be harvested.
JUST NORTH OF THE VILLAGE
The soil is sandstone, compacted sand or SAFRE near the MONARDIÈRE cellars, its draining effect offset by the presence of blue clay undersoils, extremely helpful in dry years. The seam of sand moves into clay on LES SAINTES PAPES, where MONARDIÈRE own 4 hectares. MONARDIÈRE have under 2 hectares on the PLATEAU DES GARRIGUES, with 5 hectares of COTEAU or slope vineyards, half of them facing EAST or the rising sun, towards the village of VACQUEYRAS, half of them facing WEST, and the setting sun towards the RIVER OUVÈZE.
DAMIEN VACHE OF LA MONARDIÈRE ON THEIR LES PENDANTS VINEYARD
Their vineyard on the slope of LES PENDANTS is 30% clay, strongly so, thus doesn’t fear drought. CLAIRETTE BLANCHE features there, with the usual GRENACHE and SYRAH. ERIC BOULETIN of ROUCAS TOUMBA cultivates three plots on LES PENDANTS, grey clay, marl soils that are very hard to work. His 1987 SYRAH was deliberately placed so as to be protected from the high heat of the late setting sun.
ERIC BOULETIN''S VINEYARD PLOTS ON LES PENDANTS
ERIC also grows 0.58 hectare of vineyards on LA GRAMIÈRE, whose crop goes into his interesting VIN DE FRANCE LES GRANDS CHEMINS; that allows him to work with VACCARÈSE, TERRET NOIR, ALICANTE, CINSAULT, CLAIRETTE ROSE and GRENACHE GRIS to complement his 1970s GRENACHE, 1953 CARIGNAN and 1980 SYRAH. His plantation is at a maximum of 5,000 plants per hectare. ERIC’s average yield is 18-25 hl/ha over the years.
GOBELET TRAINING FOR 1923 GRENACHE OF ROUCAS TOUMBA, ERIC BOULETIN, ON ARCHIMBAUD
DAMIEN VACHE of LA MONARDIÈRE plants a lot with GOBELET, stand alone training of his vines: “Gobelet training does best in high heat, since there is shade within the foliage, and less blockage as a result compared to being trained along wires.” LES GRÈS, where MONARDIÈRE also have vines, is stony limestone with sand, the heavy galets of the OUVÈZE present. “It is very easy to look after,” according to DAMIEN; “it dries very quickly after rain, even 50 mm (2 in) in one sharp fall, and isn’t subject to blights.” There is deep limestone on MORNAS at VACQUEYRAS, where ERIC BOULETIN grows his trio of NORTHERN RHÔNE varieties, MARSANNE, ROUSSANNE and VIOGNIER.
RIVER OUVÈZE MICRO-CLIMATE
The northern end also receives the greatest influence of the micro-climate of the RIVER OUVÈZE as it makes its way to the SOUTH-WEST and on to BÉDARRIDES, part of CHÂTEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE. In the south of the appellation towards SARRIANS, an old fruit and vegetable town, is the furthermost end of the large, 6 kilometre, sun-drenched PLATEAU DES GARRIGUES.
NICOLAS CAMALLONGA ON THE STONY DEEP CLAY SOILS OF DOMAINE DE LA VERDE
CLAYS IN THE NORTH
VACQUEYRAS is a precocious appellation, and its wines used to be invariably chewy and robust, the tannins coarse rather than refined. With closer regard to soil variations than in the past, there has come more finely tuned vineyard care and harvesting. The NORTH of the PLATEAU DES GARRIGUES holds in places deep, rich, brown clay, under the influence of the RIVER OUVÈZE, notably at DOMAINE DE LA VERDE, which is obviously crucial in years of drought such as 2017. MOURVÈDRE is suited to these clay soils.
GUY RICARD STANDING ON THE GALET STONES ON COUROULU WITH A 1920 GRENACHE PLANTED BY HIS GRANDFATHER CLEMENT
On the way to VERDE, and nearer the village of VACQUEYRAS is COUROULU, which is the oldest vineyard of GUY RICARD’s DOMAINE LE COUROULU [THE CURLEW]. On COUROULU, there are galets roulés, rolled stones, of the OUVÈZE [which is 1.5 km away], red clay below, 1919-1921 GRENACHE the star feature, forming the heart of the treasured VIEILLES VIGNES cuvée. “There’s never a fear of drought there, even in 2003 it was OK”, states GUY. It’s a very precocious site.
FURTHER SOUTH
South of the ROUTE DES ROQUES which traverses the plateau the land is a lot drier, and there is more gravel in the SARRIANS direction, 30-40 mm of it, which has an impact on domaines such as CHÂTEAU DES ROQUES, the organic LES ONDINES, and the organic DOMAINE LA SOLÉIADE, part of the CAVE DE VACQUEYRAS. This part of the plateau was wooded until 1955, which is the date of some of the CHÂTEAU DES ROQUES GRENACHE. The last massale, hand grafted off prized old stock, plantings at VACQUEYRAS are thought to have been between 1965 and 1970, before the universal adoption of clones.
The clay stretch from COUROULU runs as far as the very stony organic DOMAINE DES AMOURIERS at the northern end of the PLATEAU DES GARRIGUES – there, the galet stones are larger on LES GARRIGUES DE L’ÉTANG’s yellow clay with limestone. I associate beefy, sun-fuelled wines here, the old vines bearing commendable sève or sap, whose beneficial oily texture acts well within the encasing of wine at 15° at least. The PLATEAU DES GARRIGUES NORD then descends into the plain of the OUVÈZE, which is all VIN DE PAYS land.
The PLATEAU DES GARRIGUES SUD or SOUTH at SARRIANS gives wines with less intricacy than the more northerly sites in my view. The PLATEAU overall – NORD and SUD - forms 60% of the appellation. It is covered with galet stones on iron oxide soils, and predominantly yellow and white clays; “that iron oxide contributes, literally, to a sense of iron in the wine, as in the CUVÉE DU LOPY 2016,” comments FRÉDÉRI FÉRIGOULE of DOMAINE LE SANG DES CAILLOUX. The PLATEAU is 6 km long all told. The last, most southerly domaine of the PLATEAU is the CHÂTEAU DES TOURS, under EMMANUEL REYNAUD of CHÂTEAU RAYAS.
HOT TOPIC: IRRIGATION
The CANAL DE CARPENTRAS runs across the PLATEAU DES GARRIGUES. I state that because it is now part of the irrigation process. It’s a contentious subject. Let’s start with GUY RICARD of LE COUROULU: “in 2017 20-25% of the vineyard was irrigated, and maybe that contributed to the dilution that I have found in some of the wines I’ve tasted so far. Around 100-150 hectares are run on drip by drip systems, or they deviate water from the CANAL DE CARPENTRAS and therefore gorge the vines, or, thirdly, they use a maize canon sprayer going to and fro and roundabout.”
SERGE FÉRIGOULE, LE SANG DES CAILLOUX, is never short of an emphatic standpoint, and he concurs with GUY, spluttering: “200 hectares of the vineyard are now irrigated by drip by drip irrigation. There’s a project of irrigation of the PLATEAU DES GARRIGUES using water from the RIVER RHÔNE, water that is polluted! 60% of vignerons of VACQUEYRAS will irrigate in 2018 if they have to. If we irrigate, we make the roots rise, the opposite of the effect of our biodynamie, where we feed the soils.”
A MONTH AHEAD OF GIGONDAS
The usual harvest date at VACQUEYRAS can be a full month ahead of GIGONDAS, and the wines could not stand in greater contrast given they are exact neighbours. The full-on immediacy and heartiness of VACQUEYRAS and its overt spicing is the polar opposite of many of the cool, loose-limbed GIGONDAS reds, wines that gradually develop over the course of decades in some instances.
GIGONDAS is notable for performing well in tricky vintages such as 2008 and 2014 or even the rainswept 1991, but VACQUEYRAS can also step forward when the harvest has been complicated. 2013 recently has been a very good vintage, full of vitality and clear flavours, a small crop, less GRENACHE than usual, but wines with a cooler vintage quality about them, a tempering of the usual fire.
TWO 2008s TO NOTE
Another satisfactory vintage, a write-off for the Grandiose Wine Journalists of this world, is 2008. Ten years on, both the 2008 PIERRE AMADIEU LA GRANGELIÈRE and the 2008 DOMAINE LA LIGIÈRE – their very first vintage – were in excellent shape, really delightful table wines. Any forgotten bottles in liquor stores: try them – they will be cheap.
2016, LIKE 2015 AND 2017: HOT AND DRY
2016 joins 2015 and 2017 as a hot, dry vintage. On 2 July 2016, CHRISTIAN VACHE of DOMAINE LA MONARDIÈRE told me: “the bunches are already very fat and expanded, so we don’t want rain now. It will be a late year if it doesn’t rain – rain will be catastrophic. It could be very grand year in the style of 1995 or 1998, thanks to a beau, dry summer, temperatures around 30°C and a North wind to come.”
There were minor rainfalls leading into the harvest, with growers under no pressure to hasten their harvest. However, as SERGE FÉRIGOULE of SANG DES CAILLOUX points out, waiting for the polyphenolic ripeness – pips, skins, stems, tannins – is an error because it unbalances the wine. He gave this resumé: “it was a very hot, very dry vintage, and across the appellation there’s a lack of balance in some of the wines, which were too burnt due to being harvested too late. You had to harvest early. Some large entities started their harvest on 9-10 September, their SYRAH already at 15°.
For us, it is a more hot vintage than usual, but has super potential, and volume of 30 hl/ha, too. It is balanced, despite our extra degree, or nearly that, the wine straight, comes with belle matter and joli fruit. Tannins are present, but aren’t dry.”
SERGE’s son FRÉDÉRI, who loves to be in the vineyards, summed up how he saw things: “2016 is similar to 2015 in both having dry and hot conditions. The first SYRAH we harvested was on 1 or 2 September, which was already a couple of days too late for us. The first bucket was 14.5°, 30 hl/ha of it, with the rest moving into higher degree and over-ripeness.
We should have harvested it over the weekend before. That added 0.5° to the wine. If you wait for ripe polyphenols [skins, pips, tannins] on the GRENACHE, you are into 16.5°, and that’s because of the clones in use. You needed patience for the vinifications this year – it wasn’t a straightforward year. 2016 is the middle of three years of large wines.”
2016: FANTASTIC QUALITY OF HARVEST
The quality of the harvest was underlined by growers, with JEAN-FRANÇOIS ARNOUX of VIEUX CLOCHER stating: “both the 2015 and 2016 crops were very good, with no rot. There was abundance in 2015, but in 2016 we had just what we needed – balance, freshness.”
JACKY BERNARD of DOMAINE LA LIGIÈRE agreed: “I thought 2015 was exceptional, that we had hit the heights. So along came 2016 with a more than perfect harvest. It’s difficult to know if the final wine will pass 2015, but the 2016 crop was superior to that of 2015.”
PHILIPPE ARCHIMBAUD of CHÂTEAU DE MONTMIRAIL stood outside most in terms of quantity, however: “I am apart from the rest this year in that my yields were low due to coulure (flowers not converting into fruit) on the GRENACHE,” he related, “but the quality is very, very high, the fruit joli and the wines rich. However, there is a lack of GRENACHE, meaning more SYRAH and MOURVÈDRE. By plantation, we have 60-65% GRENACHE, but in the wine in 2016 there is only 50% GRENACHE. The drought also played a role, leading to a lack of juice. We are down 30% in 2016 compared to 2015.”
Referring to his wife’s organic DOMAINE DE MONTVAC, PHILIPPE CARTOUX of DOMAINE DES ESPIERS preferred to stay his hand on the harvest, although he is usually one of the very first given his liking for fruit over deep substance: “it’s a beau vintage, especially if you waited, similar to the quality of GIGONDAS in 2016,” he reported. “There’s elegance with volume – you think it’s residual sugar, but it’s the gras that is speaking. It’s elegant, on power as well.”
2016 RATED SUPERIOR TO 2015
Growers generally rated 2016 ahead of 2015. Take PIERRE AMADIEU: “whereas 2015 was a bit too hot and on the alcohol, the 2016s have better balance and less degree. There’s a moment when the freshness is greater than 2015’s, even though it was hotter and drier than 2015. The aromas are fresher in 2016.”
HIGH GRADE FRUIT
MARIE-THÉRÈSE COMBE of DOMAINE LA FOURMONE pointed to the finesse of 2016 alongside 2015: “I like 2016 a lot; it’s a solar year, holds very joli fruit, and there’s good quality across the appellation, with attractive acidities, fresh wines, too. The 2016s fermented longer for us than the 2015s, both at 14°. It has a bit more finesse than 2015, which is more concentrated, against the fruit stamp of the 2016s.”
GUY RICARD of DOMAINE LE COUROULU also emphasized the fruit angle of 2016, telling me: “it’s a gourmand year, the wines full of small red and black fruits. There’s a lot of licorice and power in the VIEILLES VIGNES cuvée. The vintage is a bit less on power than 2015, and has a bit more fruit than 2015. It can keep well, and is perhaps on a bit more balance than 2015, with fruit, roundness and tannins that fit in; the 2015 tannins are more marked.”
CORALIE ONDE, DOMAINE DE LA GANSE, was another grower content with the year’s fruit: “2016 delivered fruit, was what I wanted, small red fruits with spice behind them, typical VACQUEYRAS in other words,” she commented.
THIÉRRY FARAVEL of DOMAINE LA BOUÏSSIÈRE liked 2016’s freshness: “there is more cut in the 2016 than the 2015, but I compare the two vintages, with a straight down the line style in the 2016,” he said, while PIERRE SEROUL of CHÂTEAU DES ROQUES was pleased with the depth of matter: “there is a base of robust matter, the wines have good filling,” he observed.
39 WINES AT **** OR ABOVE: GOOD CHOICE
After tasting around 85 reds, most of them bottled, there is a good seam of **** wines and better – 39 in total. That represents a good choice for the drinker. Attributes that I highlighted in my notes were fruit that lasted all the way though the palate, the leaders full of gentle, sweet appeal, really gourmand.
TANNINS SHOW THE GOOD FROM THE, WELL, LESS GOOD
Tannin quality is a differential between the best and the laggards this year, without doubt. The best: ripe tannins that are fully integrated. The backmarkers: rugged, dry tannins, concern attached to the second half of the palates, the dry conditions and hot sun stepping in the way of a free flow of fruit and content all along the palate.
There are plenty of wines that really deliver pleasure this year, where the fruit is well present and the tannins fit in well. The best have prolonged, lingering finishes, good late drive. There are also garrigue charms here and there, so local truth. A good number of **** wines indicates the generally good quality of the vintage. You have to set aside some that fall short of that.
2016 is also a vintage where some of the superior cuvées seem to have performed well ahead of the regular cuvées. I cite CHÂTEAU MAZANE [ALAIN JAUME, DOMAINE GRAND VENEUR], CHÂTEAU DE MONTMIRAIL ERMITE, DOMAINE DES AMOURIERS LES GENESTES and DOMAINE CHAMFORT LES 2 LOUIS.
DODGY WINE FAULTS
On the deficit side, there were tired wines, lacking freshness, being droopy, very short-term, dull. The school report reads: “must do better, much better, given a very healthy crop.”. In this group, with the hope that I received poor samples, but bottling had already been done, were DOMAINE LA GARRIGUE **, DOMAINE DU TERME **(*), DOMAINE JULIEN DELHOMME LOUIS H **, the last-named a start-up.
RICH ENOUGH FOR EVEN AMPLE OAKING
Looking at the cellar, those who have overtly oaked such as DOMAINE DU BOIS SAINT JEAN and ARNOUX 1717 have got away with it thanks to the natural richness of the 2016 crop. In a less unctuous vintage, I would question their policy on that. The LAVAU wine, however, presented the habitual borderline clash between GRENACHE and oak.
6 X STGT IN 2016
Lastly, it’s always pleasing when a number of STGT wines come forward – this year, six in total:
****(*)
CHÂTEAU DE MONTMIRAIL ERMITE 50% GREN (early 1970s), 50% SYR (early 1980s), vat raised
RHONÉA FONTIMPLE 83% GREN (1950s), 12% SYR (mid-1980s), 5% VARIOUS, vat raised
****
DOMAINE LA BOUÏSSIÈRE 48% GREN (1960), 36% SYR (2000-03), 16% MOURV (1993-94), used cask raised
GABRIEL MEFFRE LAURUS 60% GREN, 40% SYR, 70% vat, 30% young cask raised
FAMILLE PERRIN LES CHRISTINS 80% GREN (late 1970s), 20% SYR, vat/large barrel raised
RHONÉA DOMAINE DU GRAND PRIEUR 55% GREN (late 1980s), 45% SYR, vat raised
2016 lines up, therefore, as a notable vintage for VACQUEYRAS, one that will be good value when drunk in eight to ten years’ time – or more. The passage of time will enhance the wines’ complexity, and they will reward drinking in cool or cold weather with game and red meat dishes, for example.
LEADING 2016 VACQUEYRAS REDS
| ***** | Alain Jaume Château Mazane | 2032-34 | 02/18 | style, appetising, impressive length |
| ***** | Domaine La Monardière Vieilles Vignes | 2040-42 | 02/19 | grounded, bounty, interesting |
| ***** | Domaine Les Ondines Passion | 2028-29 | 02/18 | spherical, very pure, a treat |
| ****(*) | La Cave de Gigondas Beaumirail | 2032-34 | 02/18 | full, rich, power, character |
| ****(*) | Château de Montmirail Ermite | 2032-34 | 02/18 | glove-like, tasty, classy, STGT |
| ****(*) | Clos du Joncuas La Font de Papier | 2031-34 | 02/18 | full, wavy; tangy tannin |
| ****(*) | Dom des Amouriers Les Genestes | 2030-31 | 02/18 | elegant; good heart, flair |
| ****(*) | Domaine de Longue Toque | 2032-34 | 02/18 | well charged, grabs imagination |
| ****(*) | Rhonéa Fontimple | 2030-32 | 02/18 | silken, savoury, class, STGT |
| ****(*) | Le Sang des Cailloux Cuvée de Lopy | 2037-39 | 02/18 | generous, serene flow, nourishing |
| **** | Arnoux & Fils 1717 | 2029-31 | 02/18 | enerous, rolling, sweet, long |
| **** | Arnoux & Fils Vieux Clocher Classic | 2027-28 | 02/18 | genuine, spiced, honest, local |
| **** | Maison Bouachon Pierrelongue | 2029-31 | 02/18 | tight, genuine, honest, character |
| **** | M Chapoutier | 2030-32 | 02/18 | oily content, local, insistent |
| **** | Château du Trignon | 2030-31 | 02/18 | virile, tannic drive, upbeat |
| **** | Domaine du Bois Saint Jean Ballade | 2031-34 | 02/18 | grounded, muscled, sustained |
| **** | Domaine La Bouïssière | 2029-31 | 02/18 | drive, harmony, tasty, STGT |
| **** | Domaine Chamfort Les 2 Louis | 2030-32 | 02/18 | genuine, trad, rich waves |
| **** | Dom Charbonnière Cuvée Spéciale | 2035-37 | 05/22 | ready richness, mass, spicing |
| **** | Le Clos de Caveau Fruit Sauvage | 2030-31 | 02/18 | cool, balanced, elegant, sure |
| **** | Dom Clos des Cazaux Les Templiers | 2031-33 | 02/18 | sturdy, spiced, thorough, southern |
| **** | Domaine de l’Espigouette | 2029-30 | 02/18 | gourmand, silken, innate power |
| **** | Dom Fontaine du Clos Pince-Lapin | 2027-29 | 02/18 | rounded, stylish, enjoyable |
| **** | Dom Fontaine Clos Reflets de l’Âme | 2029-30 | 02/18 | suave matter, deep juice |
| **** | Domaine La Fourmone le Poète | 2029-31 | 02/18 | garrigue impulse, wild, time |
| **** | Dom Grand Veneur Grande Garrigue | 2030-32 | 02/18 | tasty, replete, engages well |
| **** | Dom La Monardière Les 2 Monardes | 2034-36 | 02/19 | vigour, life, cut, depth, superior |
| **** | Domaine de la Pigeade | 2032-33 | 02/18 | generous, free, spiced, balanced |
| **** | Domaine Saint Laurent | 2030-31 | 02/18 | abundant juice, elegant, clear |
| **** | Le Sang des Cailloux Floureto | 2032-33 | 02/18 | gourmand, stimulating, potential |
| **** | Dom Semelles de Vent Vlles Vignes | 2030-32 | 02/18 | tasty, juicy, balance, detail |
| **** | Domaine de la Verde Ora | 2029-30 | 02/18 | tasty, singing, life, local |
| **** | Gabriel Meffre Laurus | 2031-33 | 02/18 | gourmand, generous, true, STGT |
| **** | Gabriel Meffre Saint Barthelemy | 2029-30 | 02/18 | juicy abundance, sunny, free |
| **** | Montirius Le Clos | 2030-31 | 02/18 | tasty, rolling, cool length |
| **** | Montirius Garrigues | 2028-29 | 02/18 | minted; live tannins, gd Grenache |
| **** | Famille Perrin Les Christins | 2026-28 | 10/17 | STGT nose; spiced, brisk |
| **** | Persephone Demoiselle Suzette | 2030-31 | 02/18 | good fat, garrigue lands |
| **** | Rhonéa Dom du Grand Prieur | 2029-30 | 02/18 | pure fruit, character, STGT |
| **** | Skalli Bonpas Grand Cartulaire | 2030-32 | 02/18 | close-knit, local feel, time |
| **** | Tardieu-Laurent Vieilles Vignes | 2031-33 | 02/18 | sleek matter, garrigue, character |
| ***(*) | Pierre Amadieu La Grangelière | 2026-28 | 02/18 | honest, quite stylish, early |
| ***(*) | Arnoux Château Lestours Clocher | 2028-30 | 02/18 | oaked, plenty, crowd pleaser |
| ***(*) | Arnoux & Fils Seigneur de Lauris | 2029-30 | 02/18 | grounded, compressed, pesky |
| ***(*) | Bastide St Domnque Réserve St Dominique | 2029-31 | 02/18 | style, authentic, fruit bursts |
| ***(*) | Château de Montimirail Deux Frères | 2028-30 | 02/18 | shapely, easy matter, peppery |
| ***(*) | Le Clos des Mourres Milord | 2026-28 | 02/18 | streamlined, interest, character |
| ***(*) | Delas Domaine des Genêts | 2029-30 | 02/18 | med weight, cool, agreeable |
| ***(*) | Domaine Chamfort | 2028-29 | 02/18 | genuine, natural; menthol tannins |
| ***(*) | Dom de la Charbonnière Tradition | 2032-33 | 05/22 | rich, sure depth, chewy tannin |
| ***(*) | Le Clos des Cazaux Saint-Roch | 2023-25 | 02/18 | neat, gentle, natural |
| ***(*) | Domaine Le Couroulu Vieilles Vignes | 2028-30 | 02/18 | honest, open, tasty, gourmand |
| ***(*) | Dom Font Sarade Hauts de la Ponche | 2029-30 | 02/18 | sturdy heart, sleek fruit |
| ***(*) | Domaine La Fourmone Les Ceps d’Or | 2028-29 | 02/18 | easy matter, serene, unhurried |
| ***(*) | Domaine de la Ganse | 2030-31 | 02/18 | spiced, fleshy, rugged, rocky |
| ***(*) | Domaine La Ligière Mourre de la Caille | 2024-25 | 02/18 | spiced, easy run, instant |
| ***(*) | Domaine Les Ondines | 2028-30 | 02/18 | sound heart, authentic |
| ***(*) | Domaine de Saint Paul | 2030-32 | 02/18 | spiced, rugged, needs refine |
| ***(*) | Dom Semelles de Vent Séduction | 2031-32 | 02/18 | concentrated, spiced, sunbound |
| ***(*) | Domaine Santa Duc Les Aubes | 2027-29 | 03/18 | lithe, peppered, typical |
| ***(*) | Domaine de la Tourade Euse | 2029-31 | 02/18 | instant spice, rocky, rugged |
| ***(*) | Domaine de Verquière | 2026-28 | 02/18 | authentic, soft, neat sweetness |
| ***(*) | Mas des Restanques | 2028-29 | 02/18 | fat, expansive, spiced, trad |
| ***(*) | Rhonéa Domaine de la Curnière | 2023-24 | 02/18 | measured, steady, supple, soft |
| *** | La Bastide Saint Vincent Pavane | 2027-29 | 02/18 | stretched, grinds along, dense |
| *** | La Cave de Gigondas Dom L’Atelier | 2026-28 | 02/18 | sweet, straightforward, tame |
| *** | Château Bois d’Arlène Origine | 2028-29 | 02/18 | peppery, trad, taut, stubborn |
| *** | Chât Lestours Clocher Les Pénitents | 2023-24 | 02/18 | spiced, bit plain |
| *** | Château des Roques Cuvée du Château | 2025-27 | 02/18 | ripe, gushing, copious, instant |
| *** | Domaine des Amouriers Signature | 2027-29 | 02/18 | juicy; crunch tannins, disparate |
| *** | Domaine de Boissan | 2025-26 | 02/18 | swell, gourmand, grapiness |
| *** | Domaine Le Couroulu Classique | 2029-30 | 02/18 | dips, highs, thick juice |
| *** | Domaine Font Sarade Prestige | 2027-29 | 02/18 | robust, oak, some extraction |
| *** | Domaine La Ligière Point G | 2023-24 | 02/18 | early action, tapers |
| *** | Domaine La Roubine | 2027-28 | 02/18 | spiced, oaked, bit clumsy |
| *** | Domaine de la Verde Prélude | 2029-31 | 02/18 | savoury, needs integration |
| *** | Lavau | 2028-29 | 02/18 | oak-Gren clash, direct |
| **(*) | Domaine Le Colombier Vieilles Vignes | 2026-27 | 02/18 | brewed, stewed, dry tannins |
| **(*) | Domaine d’Ouréa | 2023-24 | 02/18 | stewed, with furry tannins |
| **(*) | Domaine du Terme | 2021 | 02/18 | sweet, pastille, fades, dull |
| **(*) | Vidal-Fleury | 2026-27 | 02/18 | compressed, strength, dry finale |
| ** | Domaine Julien Delhomme Louis H | 2022 | 02/18 | uneven, dry, lacks freshness |
| ** | Domaine La Garrigue Tradition | 2021 | 02/18 | downbeat, plain, rather dull |