THE HILL OF HERMITAGE SEEN FROM THE EAST: A MAJESTIC PERFORMANCE IN 2010, ONE OF THE BEST VINTAGES OF THE PAST 50 YEARS
Here is a summary of the vintage, rather than a full review. As I have stated several times before, I love 2010. It is a great vintage, truly. I recommend buying it.
The following Mozart Piano Concerto, number 20 in d, K466, the 2nd movement or Romanze, sums it up. How often do I reach for a musical metaphor??? Here I am truly stirred, and beckon WA to elucidate on the qualities of 2010 Côte-Rôtie. The clarity, the delicacy of the piano summons the wonderful floating elegance and purity of the Syrah fruit; the violins and orchestral surround wash gently on to the shores of the piano, just as the silken tannins embrace the fruit of 2010. Quelle joie. Please buy this vintage - I speak from precisely 40 years of experience.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p_33zTtiWPA&feature=related
2010 CONDRIEU
I find 2010 resembles a mix of 2008 and 2009 at Condrieu; 2008 the year of good acidity, the 2009 the year of structure. It is an easy to drink vintage, with good body, and I rate it highly. Already I have tasted two 5-star wines from a limited amount, the Chapoutier new issue Coteau de Chéry taken from the vineyards of the Château du Rozay owned by the talented but disorganised Multier family, and the Delas Clos de Boucher, which is in part from the old Delas family vineyard. Both can live to 2020-22.
As Christine Vernay put it to me: "2010 is a quite classic vintage, especially in relation to 2009 - 2010 has more nerve, 2009 is more fleshy. There is more terroir in 2010."François Merlin`s post harvest view in the third week of October was "2010 is superb. It has better balance than 2009 - we have a high degree of 14.5° to 15°, even though I had to drop grapes and harvested around 40 hl/ha. But the pH of 3.50 is very good - compared to 3.70 or 3.80 usually. I find the wines so far a bit less what I would term "heavy" than the 2009s, they are fruited and very fine."
LEADING CONDRIEU 2010s
| ***** | M.Chapoutier Coteau de Chéry | 2020-22 | 07/11 | v terroir, then oak |
| ***** | Delas Clos Boucher | 2020-22 | 06/11 | well-filled, aromatic |
| ***** | E.Guigal La Doriane | 2024-26 | 12/11 | solid, meaty; tingle |
| ***** | R & R Niéro Héritage | 2019-20 | 11/11 | serious, caressing |
| ***** | Dom Georges Vernay Chaillées d`Enfer | 2026-28 | 02/12 | lovely, rich, subtle |
| ***** | Dom G Vernay Coteau de Vernon | 2032-35 | 04/15 | rich, long, strong |
| ***** | François Villard Deponcins | 2020-21 | 12/11 | sealed elegance |
| ****(*) | Yves Cuilleron La Petite Côte | 2019-20 | 11/11 | lots; red wine frame |
| ****(*) | Domaine Faury La Berne | 2018 | 09/12 | considerable style |
| ****(*) | André Perret Clos Chanson | 2019-20 | 05/12 | classic, subtle, deep |
| ****(*) | Dom Richard V Vignes de Martial | 2016-17 | 11/11 | precise, silken |
| ****(*) | Vins de Vienne vdpays Taburnum | 2021-22 | 02/12 | great; life, depth |
| **** | Gilles Barge La Solarie | 2015 | 11/11 | STGT, genuine |
| **** | Domaine de Bonserine | 2015-16 | 11/11 | a gd entity; balance |
| **** | M.Chapoutier Invitare | 2016 | 06/11 | free-going, clear |
| **** | Yves Culleron Ayguets | 2024-26 | 11/11 | intense, spiced |
| **** | Yves Cuilleron Les Chaillets | 2018-19 | 11/11 | bulky, glistening |
| **** | Yves Cuilleron Vertige | 2022-24 | 02/12 | tight, solid, oily |
| **** | Francois & Xavier Gérard Côte Châtillon | 2024-26 | 10/12 | robust, grounded |
| **** | E.Guigal | 2019-20 | 12/11 | rolling fat but dry |
| **** | Dom du Monteillet Grandes Chailllées | 2019-20 | 10/12 | savoury, cosy |
| **** | Michel & S Ogier La Combe de Malleval | 2018 | 11/11 | clean; rolling fruit |
| **** | M & S Ogier Vieilles Vignes J Vernay | 2019 | 02/12 | thorough, long, food |
| **** | André Perret Chéry | 2020-22 | 05/12 | beefy, deep |
| **** | René Rostaing La Bonnette | 2019-20 | 12/11 | reserved, interesting |
| **** | Christophe Semaska Lys d’Or | 2025-27 | 04/16 | compact, supple gras |
| **** | Tardieu-Laurent | 2019-20 | 11/11 | abundant, thorough |
| **** | Dom G Vernay Terrasses Empire | 2020-22 | 03/12 | clear; Asiatic dishes |
| **** | François Villard Le Grand Vallon | 2017-18 | 12/11 | fresh, precise |
| **** | Vins de Vienne Les Archeveques | 2015 | 11/11 | authentic, restraint |
| ***(*) | Domaine Bernard Bassenon | 2017 | 05/12 | STGT, fat and rich |
| ***(*) | Yves Cuilleron Vertige | 2017-18 | 11/11 | chubby, needs time |
| ***(*) | Jean-Michel Gérin La Loye | 2019-20 | 11/11 | tight, firm |
| ***(*) | Paul Jaboulet Aîné Dom Grands Amandiers | 2018 | 09/13 | elegance; fine fruits |
| ***(*) | Gabriel Meffre Laurus | 2016-17 | 11/11 | deep, grounded |
| ***(*) | Dom du Monteillet Chanson | 2020-22 | 10/12 | rich; high octane |
| ***(*) | R & R Niéro Cuvée de Chéry | 2016 | 11/11 | honest, quite full |
| ***(*) | R & R Niéro Les Ravines | 2014 | 11/11 | mild, short-term |
| ***(*) | André Perret | 2018 | 05/12 | fine, firm, aromatic |
| ***(*) | Domaine Christophe Pichon | 2018-19 | 10/12 | supple, fat |
| ***(*) | Domaine Christophe Pichon Caresse | 2019-20 | 10/12 | great nose; dumb |
| ***(*) | Domaine Richard L`Amaraze | 2016 | 11/11 | STGT, discreet power |
| ***(*) | Saint Cosme | 2017 | 01/12 | intricate, not obvious |
| ***(*) | Vins de Vienne La Chambée | 2016 | 11/11 | thorough, fat coat |
| *** | Aurelien Chatagnier | 2014 | 12/11 | jelly baby Condrieu |
| *** | J-L Colombo Amour de Dieu | 2014-15 | 06/11 | apero; easy charm |
| *** | Delas La Galopine | 2017-18 | 09/13 | dumbing dn, frm 3.5 strs |
| *** | Duseigneur Grande Réserve | 2016 | 12/12 | sound, bit lack body |
| *** | Domaine Faury | 2017-18 | 09/12 | grainy; a bit charged |
| *** | Gilles Flacher Les Rouelles | 2015 | 12/11 | full; firm finish |
| *** | François Villard Terrasses du Palat | 2016 | 12/11 | ripe, bit static |
| *** | Dom Les Alexandrins vdp Les Poupées | 2014 | 11/11 | fine, precise, v gd |
| *** | M & S Ogier vdpays Viognier de Rosine | 2017 | 02/12 | fine; aperitif |
| *** | G Vernay vdepays Pied de Samson | 2015-16 | 07/11 | supple, fresh |
2010 CORNAS
In unison with the rest of the Northern Rhône Syrahs, Cornas has done very well. The wines are rich, but also carry fresh tannins, a winning combination. They are open, and well-balanced. Thiérry Allemand stated: "2010 became very good. It was not like that at the start, but took on body after two months, being quite firm and tannic. I harvested 26 August, 2010 - the crop was too ripe - I had to pick then." Anne Colombo finds that 2010 "has more vivacity than 2009, the balance is better. It is more Northern Rhône than 2009, which is rather southern in style."
Pierre Clape commented as follows: "2010 is a very pretty vintage. Degrees were between 14° and 14.5°, but the 60mm (2.4 in) rainstorm around 6-7 September helped to stabilise the degree at that, not higher. In truth, so dry has it been that two days after that rain you wouldn`t have known that anything had fallen, so thirsty were the vineyards. The wines are a bit more fresh than the 2009s, and are on less on over-ripeness than the 2009s."
So it is a vintage to buy, and to enjoy. Their balance will allow them to live, even if they show flamboyantly right at the start. After tasting a large amount of them in November, 2011, I find them led by their harmony and balance. 2010 is a rich Cornas vintage, with its often notably grainy tannins infused into the wines from a very early stage. Such is their balance and exuberance of fruit that some are even w.o.w. (what one wants) wines - highly unusual for Cornas, whereby they can be drunk with a wide variety of dishes, even providing amusement without food. Quite extraordinary.
2010 is the most successful fruit year that I have known at Cornas in 40 years, across many domaines. I think of sunny vintages, perhaps 1985. 1990 was a more full sun, solar vintage, as was 1999, and 2009 has more power and charge. The beauty here is the finesse and the balance.
I suspect that this could be a vintage that makes Cornas a discovery for a wider audience, so do not expect prices to remain entirely reasonable. My advice would be to buy en primeur, I have to say. The balance in the wines will allow a 15 to 20 year life, but I suspect their delicious nature will have depleted stocks some time before then.
LEADING CORNAS 2010s
| ****** | Domaine Clape | 2042-45 | 10/12 | lovely togetherness |
| ****** | Thiérry Allemand Reynard | 2039-42 | 04/16 | complete, delicate, v long |
| ***** | Thiérry Allemand Chaillot | 2034-37 | 04/16 | fine, southern purr |
| ***** | Franck Balthazar Chaillot | 2032-34 | 10/12 | Big Beast Cornas |
| ***** | Domaine Clape Renaissance | 2032-34 | 10/12 | complex, interesting |
| ***** | Domaine Courbis Les Eygats | 2026-29 | 11/11 | typical inside its oak |
| ***** | Domaine Courbis La Sabarotte | 2027-28 | 11/11 | fat, bundles of fruit |
| ***** | Dumien-Serrette Patou | 2025-28 | 11/11 | feminine wiles, true |
| ***** | Domaine Lionnet Terre Brûlée | 2039-41 | 05/18 | sun, heart, great fresh length |
| ***** | D Michelas St Jemms Terres dArce | 2026-28 | 11/11 | bright, genuine, oaked |
| ***** | Vincent Paris Granit 60 | 2028-30 | 11/11 | savoury, thorough |
| ***** | Tardieu-Laurent Vieilles Vignes | 2026-28 | 11/11 | core richness, oak |
| ***** | Alain Voge Les Vieilles Vignes | 2027-29 | 11/11 | bright, long, STGT |
| ****(*) | Matthieu Barret/Coulet Billes Noires | 2030-32 | 10/15 | firm, manly, cool |
| ****(*) | Cave de Tain Arènes Sauvages | 2028-29 | 11/12 | rich-hearted; abundant |
| ****(*) | Jean-Luc Colombo La Louvée | 2023-25 | 06/11 | Cornas grain; solid |
| ****(*) | Domaine Courbis Champelrose | 2026-28 | 11/11 | clear fruit, international |
| ****(*) | Delas Chante Perdrix | 2028-30 | 11/12 | rich; warm soils wine |
| ****(*) | Domaine Durand Prémices | 2026-28 | 11/11 | muscular, needs time |
| ****(*) | Pierre Gaillard | 2024-26 | 11/11 | juicy, modern, enjoyable |
| ****(*) | Guillaume Cilles Chaillot | 2037-39 | 05/18 | bright fruit, rugged, very long |
| ****(*) | Vincent Paris La Geynale | 2030-32 | 01/16 | full, closely lined, STGT |
| ****(*) | Tardieu-Laurent Coteaux | 2023-25 | 11/11 | squeezy, bendy, sweet |
| ****(*) | Domaine du Tunnel | 2024-26 | 02/12 | insistent fruit; fine |
| ****(*) | Alain Voge Les Vieilles Fontaines | 2022-24 | 11/11 | sappy; w.o.w. in youth |
| **** | Matthieu Barret Brise Cailloux | 2031-33 | 04/18 | fresh, springy, mineral, time |
| **** | Cave de Tain | 2023-25 | 11/12 | rich; firm tannins |
| **** | J-L Colombo Les Ruchets | 2026-28 | 06/11 | agile fruit, long |
| **** | Domaine Durand Confidence | 2027-28 | 11/11 | firm oak, no hurry |
| **** | Maxime Graillot equis | 2026-27 | 11/12 | Wild Child, demanding |
| **** | Dom P & V Jaboulet | 2025-27 | 11/11 | stiff oak, ferrous, wait |
| **** | Jacques Lemenicier | 2023-25 | 11/11 | good guts, traditional |
| **** | Vincent Paris Granit 30 | 2022-23 | 09/12 | drinkability, w.o.w. |
| **** | Alain Voge Les Chaillés | 2022-23 | 11/11 | w.o.w. supple, pretty |
| ***(*) | Franck Balthazar Casimir Balthazar | 2026-27 | 11/12 | generous, gd resto wine |
| ***(*) | M.Chapoutier Les Arènes | 2024-27 | 07/11 | Cornas from 2015, fresh |
| ***(*) | J-L Colombo Terres Brûlées | 2024-26 | 06/11 | gd frame; fruit vigour |
| ***(*) | J-L Colombo Vallon de l`Aigle | 2025-26 | 06/11 | enclosed; has spine |
| ***(*) | Maison Nicolas Perrin | 2025-27 | 11/11 | attractive, cld be deeper |
| ***(*) | Yves Cuilleron Les Vires | 2020-24 | 11/11 | supple, bendy, varietal |
| ***(*) | Domaine Durand Empreintes | 2023-25 | 11/11 | Regular Guy, mainstream |
| ***(*) | Ferraton Les Grands Mûriers | 2025-27 | 02/12 | clear-cut; dark grain |
| ***(*) | Vins de Vienne Les Barcillants | 2025-27 | 11/11 | correct, oily, oaked |
| *** | Dom Michelas St Jemms Murettes | 2021-22 | 11/11 | cellar-style wine |
| *** | Luc Robert Louma | 2026-27 | 11/17 | streamlined, crunchy |
2010 CÔTE-RÔTIE
This is where I get very jiggy, dangerously jiggy. What fruit, what balance, what richness. What an ensemble. I fell in love with this vintage in November last year, and readers will know that I have been dropping hints about it ever since. I did actually suggest to Jean-Paul Jamet after tasting just two of his lieu-dits the word "1978", for the wines literally had that sort of instant recall as I tasted them. 1978 was never a gruff vintage, its balance was superb, and it has been hailed in the pantheon of Great Rhône Vintages. We will see whether 2010 can reach those heights, but it is certainly is starting in the right way. Yum Yum.
With vineyards in the southern sector, Stéphane Bernard of Domaine Bernard told me: "2010 has a bit less matter than 2009 Côte-Rôtie, but the balance is better regarding the alcohol and the acidity. The veraison (change of colour of grapes) was difficult this year - at the end of August, the vines did not move much. Our yield this year was over 39 hl/ha, a good amount." Likewise, from the south, Yves Gangloff commented: "I made 36 hl/ha this year, against 42 hl/ha in 2009, when I wanted quantity to offset the power of the vintage. My 2010 is 13° to 13.5°. The plot distinction has been less marked this year than in 2009, but it may evolve through that. I am not sure 2010 will have the elegance of the 2009. 2010 is a beau, classic vintage." What impressed me chez Gangloff was the performance of his 2002-2010 Syrah young vines on Combard - a full, gutsy, aromatic wine.
Both Jean-Paul Jamet - smiles rather than words when first asked about 2010 - and René Rostaing are very keen on 2010. M.Rostaing, for instance: "2010 is a grandiose year - structure, finesse, precision. It has everything. It is clearly better than 2009."
The wines will live well, too. They are definitively good. There.
LEADING CÔTE-RÔTIE 2010s
| ****** | Gilles Barge Côte Brune | 2036-38 | 05/12 | packed; Grand Vin |
| ****** | Delas La Landonne | 2027-29 | 11/12 | interesting, fulfilling |
| ****** | Pierre Gaillard Rose Pourpre | 2025-26 | 11/11 | so floral, aromatic |
| ****** | E.Guigal La Landonne | 2040-44 | 11/15 | compact, lifted, fab promise |
| ****** | E.Guigal La Mouline | 2036-39 | 12/11 | style, serious heart |
| ****** | E.Guigal La Turque | 2038-40 | 12/11 | brilliant flow; deep |
| ****** | Domaine Jamet Côte Brune | 2039-42 | 05/13 | class, complex joy, complete |
| ****** | M&S Ogier Lancement | 2032-35 | 12/11 | complex, long, fine |
| ****** | René Rostaing Côte Blonde | 2041-45 | 11/15 | outstanding; a Beauty |
| ****** | Saint Cosme La Viallière | 2038-40 | 12/12 | STGT; fascinating, classic |
| ****** | Jean-Michel Stéphan | 2027-29 | 02/12 | sublime; BUT Brett issues |
| ***** | Domaine Gilles Barge Du Plessy | 2025-27 | 05/12 | gt balance, fresh, racy |
| ***** | Domaine Bernard Cotx de Bassenon | 2029-31 | 05/12 | stylish gras, tasty |
| ***** | Dom Bernard Cote Rozier | 2033-34 | 05/12 | tight packing, sturdy |
| ***** | Dom P&C Bonnefond Les Rochains | 2029-31 | 11/13 | full, very joli, generous |
| ***** | Dom de Bonserine La Garde | 2027-30 | 11/11 | intense, balanced |
| ***** | Dom de Bonserine La Viallière | 2024-26 | 11/11 | refined, soft, juiced |
| ***** | Bernard Burgaud | 2028-31 | 06/11 | generous, deep |
| ***** | M.Chapoutier La Mordorée | 2033-35 | 11/13 | big, fluid, elegant, lovely |
| ***** | Clusel-Roch La Viallière | 2025-27 | 11/11 | serene, fine, velvet |
| ***** | Delas Seigneur de Maugiron | 2024-26 | 05/13 | STGT; magic terroir-vintage |
| ***** | Domaine Duclaux Maison-Rouge | 2024-26 | 11/11 | STGT, character |
| ***** | Francois & Xavier Gérard | 2025-27 | 10/12 | pure, lovely truth |
| ***** | E.Guigal Le Château d'Ampuis | 2035-38 | 10/15 | very rich, fine, long |
| ***** | Domaine Jamet | 2035-38 | 05/13 | abundance, freshness, 5.5 strs |
| ***** | Vignobles Levet Peroline/Chavaroche | 2033-35 | 12/13 | STGT; thorough, character |
| ***** | Dom du Monteillet Fortis | 2030-32 | 10/12 | rich, deep, stylish |
| ***** | M&S Ogier Belle Hélène | 2032-34 | 12/11 | healthy ripeness; snap |
| ***** | Stéphane Pichat Les Grandes Places | 2030-32 | 10/12 | volume, depth; long |
| ***** | René Rostaing Ampodium | 2032-34 | 05/13 | clear, steely, balanced |
| ***** | René Rostaing La Landonne | 2038-40 | 11/15 | absorbing, fine, dense, v sure |
| ***** | Saint Cosme | 2028-30 | 12/12 | aromatic, fine; great finish |
| ***** | Pierre-Jean Villa Carmina | 2026-28 | 06/11 | STGT; great purity |
| ***** | Vins de Vienne Les Essartailles | 2025-27 | 11/11 | v precise fruit; ping |
| ****(*) | Gilles Barge Le Combard | 2026-28 | 05/12 | muscled vigour |
| ****(*) | Dom P&C Bonnefond Côte Rozier | 2029-32 | 11/13 | meaty, full, flinty, sustained |
| ****(*) | Clusel-Roch Classique | 2034-36 | 11/16 | handsome, detailed, interest |
| ****(*) | Clusel-Roch Les Gdes Places | 2025-27 | 11/11 | harmony, round, fluid |
| ****(*) | Domaine Duclaux La Germine | 2024-26 | 11/11 | trad, lip-smacking |
| ****(*) | Domaine Garon Les Triotes | 2028-30 | 10/12 | crackle, promise, gusto |
| ****(*) | E.Guigal Brune et Blonde | 2033-36 | 10/15 | savoury, great depth |
| ****(*) | Vignobles Levet Améthyste | 2028-30 | 12/13 | full, genuine, traditional |
| ****(*) | Domaine Niéro Vires de Serine | 2024-26 | 11/11 | stylish gras; oak |
| ****(*) | M&S Ogier Réserve du Domaine | 2034-36 | 11/15 | shapely, good heart, length |
| ****(*) | Domaine de Rosiers | 2023-26 | 06/11 | STGT, finesse, elegant |
| ****(*) | Dom Georges Vernay Maison Rouge | 2029-30 | 11/13 | balance, character, precision |
| **** | Dom P&C Bonnefond Colline Couzou | 2029-31 | 11/13 | abundant, juicy; good heart |
| **** | Dom de Bonserine La Sarrasine | 2023-25 | 11/11 | accomplished fruit |
| **** | Yves Cuilleron Terres Sombres | 2021-23 | 11/11 | gourmand, modern |
| **** | Pierre Gaillard | 2021-23 | 11/11 | fatness, richness |
| **** | Domaine Gallet | 2028-29 | 10/15 | free, long, plenty |
| **** | Domaine Garon Les Rochins | 2038-40 | 05/18 | verve, genuine, solid, oak masking |
| **** | Jean-Michel Gérin La Viallière | 2023-25 | 11/11 | fat, gourmandise |
| **** | Domaine Jasmin | 2030-32 | 10/12 | brewed, interesting |
| **** | Vignobles Levet Maestria | 2032-34 | 10/12 | raw goods, time |
| **** | Domaine Niéro | 2020-22 | 11/11 | early, textured, w.o.w. |
| **** | Ogier Cave des Papes La Serine | 2024-26 | 11/11 | traditional, steely |
| **** | Stéphane Pichat Champon's | 2025-27 | 10/12 | chunky; hand made |
| **** | Chr Pichon Comtesse en Côte Blonde | 2025-27 | 10/12 | plump, textured |
| **** | Christophe Pichon Rozier | 2025-26 | 10/12 | future STGT; shapely |
| **** | Christophe Semaska Chât de Montlys | 2029-32 | 04/16 | precise fruit, lot going on |
| **** | Vins de Vienne Les Archeveques | 2022-24 | 11/11 | measured, mineral |
| ***(*) | Dom Bernard Les Meandres | 2022-24 | 05/12 | Solid Citizen, ripe |
| ***(*) | Domaine Faury Reviniscence | 2023-24 | 09/12 | subtle, be patient |
| ***(*) | André François Gerine | 2021-23 | 11/11 | traditional, bit wild |
| ***(*) | Domaine Garon La Sybarine | 2023-25 | 10/12 | abundant, long |
| ***(*) | Tardieu-Laurent | 2024-26 | 11/11 | v modern, cellar wine |
| ***(*) | Dom Grges Vernay Blonde du Seigneur | 2024-26 | 03/13 | fine, Burgundian, slow burn |
| ***(*) | GAEC Daniel, Roland & Gisèle Vernay | 2027-28 | 12/13 | mineral, true; careful fruit |
| ***(*) | François Villard Le Gallet Blanc | 2020-21 | 11/11 | round; a safe do |
| *** | Aurélien Chataignier | 2021-23 | 11/11 | bit stretched |
| *** | J-Michel Gérin Champin le Seigneur | 2021-23 | 11/11 | mulled, cooked fruit |
2010 CROZES-HERMITAGE RED
2010 was made for the Syrah at Crozes-Hermitage. As a vintage of fresh, free-flowing fruit, it exemplifies what Crozes should be - packed with drinkable, juicy, stimulating wines that show the exuberance of the Syrah without any need for make-up or confection. The classic cuvées that are low on oak are entertaining and easily quaffable, and I heartily recommend them on a value basis as well.
Their drinking can be done standing up in a bar, sitting in a bistrot with a variety of food flavours and textures to come, or with groups of friends at a barbecue or a relaxed supper party: they deserve convivial surroundings.
The more serious wines made from older vines and given some young oak are full of profound content, and need a little time - maybe until 2014 - to start to show their expanded quality. Some, such as the Graillot Guiraude and the Chapoutier Les Varonniers, have reached that near-Hermitage status that is rare for red Crozes: not the first time for the Guiraude - I think of the still young 1990 - nor for the Varonniers, whose 2005 was extremely intense.
Yann Chave gave me a long and well-explained view on 2010 in November, 2011, making a correct comparison with 2009: "whereas 2009 was a Châteauneuf-du-Pape influence year, 2010 is a Burgundy-influenced vintage - the two are completely different. Intellectually, it will be very interesting to taste the two vintages together in 7 or 8 years - the top cuvées such as Clos des Grives etc. There is belle matter in the 2010s, a bit less imposing than 2009. My classic is 13° not too high, while acidities are good and tannins are ripe, although you did have to wait for the tannins. 2010 has more breeding (race) than 2009, which is more crushed, has more matter and a higher degree. 2009 is 13.5° to 14°, 2010 is 13°, for instance. Remember that July 2009 was very hot. The combination of acidity, alcohol and tannin in 2010 is rare, meaning it is a year of good balance."
It is noticeable that yields swung pretty widely in 2010, a lot to do with quality and commercial policy at individual domaines. I feel that Crozes is still an appellation where estates work at different speeds, where some set themselves much higher demands than others. It is the one northern Rhône area that encompasses space - 1,200 hectares or so, and facility - machine harvesting, mass production in some cases. I exclude the northern villages such as Larnage and Gervans, of course, where things are more manual.
Thus quality measures such as green harvesting - needed in 2011, for instance, is not a given across the board, and the highly controversial allowing of oak chips - a complete scandal in my view - is written into the recent rules of the appellation. This was a very messy trade-off for allowing some wines to go on early release, with politics at the heart of the decision rather than the objective welfare of the appellation. Do people know about oak chips being allowed at Crozes? I very much doubt it, and the growers probably want to keep it that way.
Thus 2010 yields, to take a few examples vary between 45 hl/ha at Domaine Pochon and Etienne Becheras, 42 hl/ha at Michelas St Jemms, 41 hl/ha at Domaine du Pavillon at Mercurool, 40 hl/ha at Pierre Gaillard, 38 hl/ha at Remizières, 35 hl/ha for Natacha Chave at Aléofane, 33 hl/ha at Dom de la Ville Rouge, 30 hl/ha at Philippe & Vincent Jaboulet, 25 hl/ha at the new Le Domaine de Lucie. The Jaboulet pedigree, given that father and son work on Les Chassis not far from some of those cited, comes through here.
Growers` enthusiasm for 2010 is evident, quite rightly so. Franck Faugier, hard-working owner of Domaine des Hauts Chassis, has produced three grand wines in 2010: "2010 was a late ripening, very balanced year, certainly more balanced than 2009. I like it stylistically, since it is also fresh and has a real Crozes style of gourmand ease, unlike 2009. The crop was very beautiful, so much so that I tried one vat with whole bunches. We picked ten days later than 2010. 2010 resembles 2006 for me, given that I only started in 2003 - it has fruit, gourmandise, and 2011 is similar."
Alain Graillot, now reaching veteran status, at least wise counsellor, reflected thus on 2010: "it is in the line of 1989 and 1995 - years of a lot of sun, very little rain and considerable tannic charge. The big aim is to have fresh fruit. In 2010 we actually waited for the rain to come to the aid of the vineyard - that`s a rare event. It rained on 23-24 September, and that unblocked the vines, so we harvested two days later in the space of seven to ten days. The grapes needed that 30 mm (1.2 in) of storm rain, which was followed by the North wind to clean things up."
After the long winter leading into 2010, the growing season had started 15 days behind in the early part of 2010, but then caught up. Flowering was very belle, and lasted one week. After that it became very dry, and the vine stopped moving forwards. August weather was not great - the freshness of the vintage was established during this month, after some heat in late June and July. Storms were not a factor because the weather was generally less hot than in some years.
Another example of 2010`s classic qualities was the date of harvesting when compared to 2009. For Maxime Graillot, for instance, he started 0n 7 September in 2009, against 25 September in 2010. "We had cold mornings at the harvest - so the grapes came in cool, which meant that pre-fermentation cooling took time this year," he told me later in the year. "We destem, but don`t crush, so there is a slow liberation of sugar. It is a classic, a true pleasure vintage, perhaps a little like 2006, is very gourmand, and has beau tannins that are very fine." He added that a good ripeness was not achieved everywhere at Crozes, simply because not all sites are south-facing, and well-exposed.
The northern sector has performed extremely well this year as well. I find the red fruit grace extremely enticing this year, with the word "subtle" occurring in my notes. The tannins are always fine from these granite slope villages, and in 2010 their youth displays a light sprinkle of powder, noting like decomposition, just a sure-footed and light touch of restraint present in the wines.
Laurent Habrard has made an STGT red in 2010, a really natural child of its place. He commented: "I prefer 2010 to 2009 - it is more silken, more profound. 2009 is more tannic, austere, and will be drinkable later than 2010." Also at Gervans, his neighbour Pascal Fayolle of Domaine des Martinelles stated: "2010 Syrahs have pretty fruit, are quite fresh, possess good balance, with a bit less core than 2009; there is an attractive aromatic composition to the reds." At Larnage, beyond the eastern end of the Hernitage hill, Marc Sorrel found 2010 less rich than 2009; "after vinification, it was quite acidic, but the malolactics have rounded it well," he told me. His 2010 crop was 25% down on the 2009 level, off the slope vineyards there.
The conclusion is simple, thus. This is a vintage that should be bought for drinking at home, or when on an evening out. The wines will not disappoint. The special cuvées will run well over 10 to 12 years. Bonne dégustation.
LEADING CROZES-HERMITAGE 2010 REDS
| ***** | M.Chapoutier Les Varonniers | 2028-30 | 07/11 | quality, variety, STGT |
| ***** | Alain Graillot La Guiraude | 2027-30 | 11/11 | dark, penetrating, long |
| ***** | Dom Michelas St Jemms Cuvée N°29 | 2030-33 | 10/15 | structure, gt freshness |
| ***** | Dom de la Ville Rouge Terre d'Eclat | 2017 | 05/12 | great style; w.o.w. |
| ****(*) | Dom Les Bruyères Georges Reynaud | 2018 | 11/11 | ace example of Crozes |
| ****(*) | Yann Chave Le Rouvre | 2021-22 | 11/11 | mini-Hermitage; gras |
| ****(*) | Domaine Combier Clos des Grives | 2023-25 | 03/12 | thorough, also free |
| ****(*) | Olivier Dumaine La Croix du Verre | 2019-20 | 12/11 | STGT, jungley, v long |
| ****(*) | Dom Fayolle Fils & Fille Les Cornirets | 2024-25 | 09/12 | classy; local grain |
| ****(*) | Ferraton Père & Fils La Matinière | 2027-29 | 10/15 | max gras, wonderful |
| ****(*) | Domaine Jeanne Gaillard | 2018-19 | 11/11 | charm, finesse, joli |
| ****(*) | E Guigal | 2026-28 | 10/15 | great balance, very long |
| ****(*) | Dom des Hauts Chassis Les Chassis | 2020-21 | 11/11 | rolling juice; fresh |
| ****(*) | Dom du Murinais Vieilles Vignes | 2020-21 | 11/11 | classy; shapely fruit |
| ****(*) | Gilles Robin Alberic Bouvet | 2024-26 | 12/15 | long, fresh, complete |
| **** | Domaine Belle Les Pierrelles | 2020-21 | 12/11 | STGT, also w.o.w. |
| **** | Cave de Clairmont Pionniers | 2018 | 11/11 | easy drink, true Crozes |
| **** | Cave de Tain Les Hauts du Fief | 2023-24 | 11/12 | meaty, robust, tannic |
| **** | Cave de Tain Selection Première | 2023-24 | 11/13 | progress, depth, frm 3 st |
| **** | Yann Chave Tradition | 2019 | 11/11 | juicy; reduced |
| **** | Domaine Combier | 2020-21 | 03/12 | complete, drinkable |
| **** | Dard & Ribo Les Rouge des Bâties | 2019-20 | 03/12 | crisp fruit; cool drink |
| **** | Delas Le Clos | 2021-23 | 11/12 | upright, not obvious |
| **** | Delas Dom des Grands Chemins | 2023-24 | 11/12 | honest local depth |
| **** | Delas Les Launes | 2018-19 | 05/12 | up frm **(*); plenty |
| **** | Emmanuel Darnaud Mise en Bouche | 2019-20 | 12/11 | snappy 2010 fruit |
| **** | Emmanuel Darnaud Trois Chenes | 2018-19 | 12/11 | flair; w.o.w. |
| **** | Domaine des Entrefaux Les Pends | 2020-22 | 11/11 | rich; delicious fruit |
| **** | Equis equinox | 2019 | 03/12 | w.o.w. plus extras |
| **** | Fayolle Fils & Fille Les Pontaix | 2023-24 | 09/12 | modern fruit; firm tannin |
| **** | Ferraton Les Pichères | 2022-23 | 02/12 | subtle depth; beau |
| **** | Domaine Alain Graillot | 2022-24 | 11/11 | density, purity, quality |
| **** | Domaine Habrard | 2017-18 | 11/11 | STGT; rounded, long |
| **** | Dom des Hauts Chassis Les Galets | 2019-20 | 11/11 | lissom appeal, charm |
| **** | Paul Jaboulet Ainé Dom Thalabert | 2020-21 | 05/12 | solid; clean fruit |
| **** | Philippe & Vince Jaboulet Nouvelère | 2018 | 11/11 | bang on Crozes, racy |
| **** | Domaine Jean-Claude Marsanne | 2020-21 | 10/12 | crystalline, reserved |
| **** | Michelas St Jemms La Chasselière | 2018-19 | 11/11 | deep; salty clarity |
| **** | Dom du Murinais Les Amandiers | 2018-19 | 11/11 | w.o.w. tasty fruit |
| **** | Ogier Oratorio | 2019-20 | 11/11 | solid plus fruit spark |
| **** | Gilles Robin 920 | 2020-21 | 11/13 | sturdy, rich heart, serious |
| **** | E Pochon | 2017-18 | 11/11 | fun Crozes, w.o.w. |
| **** | Dom des Remizières Christophe | 2019-20 | 11/11 | restrained, promise |
| **** | Saint Cosme | 2022-23 | 12/12 | STGT; fine, scented |
| **** | Dom de la Ville Rouge Inspiration | 2019-20 | 11/11 | fresh, clear fruit, v 2010 |
| **** | Les Vins de Vienne Les Palignons | 2020-22 | 11/11 | clear; gradual progress |
| ***(*) | Louis Bernard Le Hameau | 2018 | 05/12 | spiced; hidden corners |
| ***(*) | Brunel P et Fils Brunel de la Gardine | 2017-18 | 05/12 | good typicity, doing well |
| ***(*) | Dom Les Bruyères Les Croix | 2018 | 11/11 | supple drinking |
| ***(*) | Cave de Clairmont Immanence | 2018-19 | 11/11 | promise; gradual gain |
| **** | Domaine du Colombier | 2020-21 | 05/12 | up from ***(*) |
| ****(*) | Dom du Colombier Cuvée Gaby | 2023-24 | 05/12 | up from ***(*) |
| ***(*) | Cave de Tain | 2017 | 05/12 | harmony, drinkability |
| ***(*) | Laurent Combier Cuvée L | 2016-17 | 11/11 | gracious, floral, clear |
| ***(*) | E Pochon Chateau Curson | 2020-21 | 12/11 | v modern, oaked; cool |
| ***(*) | Colombo & Fille | 2015 | 05/12 | pleasing, drink now |
| ***(*) | Romain Duvernay | 2016 | 05/12 | tasty; 2010 freedom |
| ***(*) | Domaine des Entrefaux | 2016-17 | 11/11 | STGT and w.o.w. - rare |
| ***(*) | Fayolle Fils & Fille Sens | 2019-20 | 09/12 | aromatic, reserved |
| ***(*) | Dom des Hauts Chassis Esquisse | 2017 | 11/11 | gd drink; core Syr fruit |
| ***(*) | Domaine des Lises | 2016-17 | 11/10 | gras, bright wine |
| ***(*) | Domaine des Martinelles | 2017-18 | 11/11 | honest drinking |
| ***(*) | Michelas St Jemms Terres d`Arce | 2017-18 | 11/11 | fresh; expressive |
| **** | Nicolas Perrin | 2018-19 | 05/12 | on the up; complete |
| ***(*) | Domaine Pradelle | 2018-19 | 05/12 | up from **(*) |
| ***(*) | Dom Rousset Les Picaudières | 2017-19 | 11/11 | harmony; light touch |
| ***(*) | Tardieu-Laurent Vieilles Vignes | 2021-23 | 11/11 | set to deepen, gd fruit |
| ***(*) | Les Vins de Vienne | 2016-17 | 11/11 | rounded, scented |
| *** | Domaine Belle Louis Belle | 2021-23 | 12/11 | not yet ensemble |
| *** | Domaine Betton Caprice | 2018-19 | 11/11 | but 02/12 * poor bot |
| *** | Domaine Champal Chaubayou | 2017-18 | 11/11 | earthy, grounded |
| *** | M.Chapoutier Les Meysonniers | 2018-19 | 07/11 | scented, soft |
| *** | M.Chapoutier Petite Ruche | 2017-18 | 07/11 | potential, w.o.w. |
| *** | Jean-Luc Colombo La Tuilère | 2015 | 05/12 | fair squeeze fruit |
| *** | Dauvergne Ranvier Vin Rare | 2017-18 | 11/11 | scented fruit; tar |
| *(*) | Gabriel Meffre Laurus | 2016-17 | 06/12 | dn frm ***; acidity |
| *** | Jean-Luc Colombo Les Fées Brunes | 2017-18 | 05/12 | smoky, oak, time |
| *** | Domaine Melody Premier Regard | 2017-18 | 05/12 | juice, dust; food best |
| *** | Domaine Mucyn | 2016-17 | 11/11 | clear, floral, fine |
| *** | Ogier Les Brunnelles | 2016 | 05/12 | short-term, ready now |
| *** | Domaine du Pavillon-Mercurol | 2019-20 | 11/11 | fruit to come; sleek oak |
| *** | Dom des Remizières Particulière | 2020-21 | 11/11 | spinal; bright fruit |
| *** | Gilles Robin Papillon | 2016 | 02/12 | calm, easy, smooth |
| *** | Dom Saint Clair Fleur Enchantée | 2019-20 | 11/11 | bit mechanical; wait |
| *** | Saint Cosme Tiercerolles | 2020-21 | 12/12 | open book, smoky |
| *** | J Vidal-Fleury | 2016-17 | 05/12 | powerful, big, sweet |
2010 CROZES-HERMITAGE WHITE
The white Crozes-Hermitages are superb in 2010. I started to drink some after the summer of 2011, and thought, "wow"! They carry exemplary richness, real genuine depth and a most appealing fullness, with no oxidative hints that can sometimes be present at Crozes. Nor are they tame - again, Crozes whites can be mild, a little dull and pleasant for a simple aperitif over the course of 18 to 24 months. Not so in 2010.
I would rate the vintage here ahead of 2004, which was very successful; these have a little more acidity and nerve, and when tasting them I found notes extolling a wide variety of dishes - fish, lobster, sweetbreads, celery (the fat of the vintage works really well, so also asparagus), and Japanese ramen soups and dishes were also evoked.
The growers are content, with the Burgundy-leaning Alain Graillot finding 2010 white Crozes-Hermitage "my sort of vintage - balance, freshness, really sympa wines. But they were tricky to vinify - fermentations stopped." A grower who has an agile hand with his whites from the granite slopes at Gervans, northern sector, is Laurent Habrard: "I am very happy with my white this year, as I am for 2009 and 2011. 2009 was perhaps the most distinguished year, with the best harmony. The nose on the 2010 is very fine and subtle, then that leads on to some heat on the palate."
Absolutely enthused about the whites in 2010 was Yann Chave: "2010 is freer and fresher than 2009 - it is an exceptional, outstanding year, the best the region has made. It is ripe, but acidities are good thanks to the fresh weather in August. For once, ripeness and acidity come hand in hand, with a lot of gras. Degrees aren`t high, and even for Hermitage they only go up to 13.5°. There is good balance. Going back, 2004 is a bit richer, 2010 is more loose and relaxed."
Pascal Fayolle of Domaine des Martinelles at Gervans told me: "2010 white has good balance, is rather elegant, holds a good sucrosity and acidity - the crop was healthy, and we were at 13° to 13.2°." A little south at Larnage, the skilled white maker Olivier Dumaine, whose wines are often STGT, reported: "the 2010 whites have more nerve than 2009, bear more fruit, are better balanced and can live for 4 years or so. The malos took time to complete."
The balance and fat depth of the wines indicate a more extended life than usual - three to five years for many, the best capable of a little longer than that. Enjoy the glorious and wholesome features of this vintage, a year when people not used to Rhône whites should try them à table - they are a real treat.
LEADING CROZES-HERMITAGE 2010 WHITES
| ***** | Domaine des Entrefaux Les Pends | 2016-17 | 11/11 | STGT; not obvious |
| ****(*) | Domaine Combier | 2017-18 | 11/11 | fine tune, stylish |
| ****(*) | Domaine Pradelle Courbis | 2016 | 11/11 | style, elegant, character |
| **** | Yann Chave | 2016 | 11/11 | 30% R; exotic fruit |
| **** | Olivier Dumaine Croix du Verre | 2019-20 | 11/11 | STGT; fine, supple |
| **** | Domaine Habrard | 2015-16 | 11/11 | delicate; well-filled |
| **** | Michelas St Jemms Signature | 2018 | 11/11 | minor Hermtge blanc |
| **** | Domaine Mucyn | 2019 | 11/11 | fat, also pure |
| **** | Dom des Remizières Particulière | 2018-19 | 11/11 | fattish, precise |
| **** | Domaine Saint Clair un matin . . . | 2017-18 | 11/11 | supple, elegant |
| **** | Marc Sorrel | 2021-23 | 11/11 | STGT; complete, free |
| ***(*) | Domaine Belle Terres Blanches | 2015-16 | 11/11 | aperitif; elegant |
| ***(*) | Cave de Tain Les Hauts d`Eole | 2016-17 | 11/11 | w.o.w; salty, early, free |
| ***(*) | Dard & Ribo Pé du Loup | 2019-20 | 03/12 | body; typical Marsanne |
| ***(*) | Domaine des Entrefaux | 2015-16 | 11/11 | authentic, good nerve |
| ***(*) | Domaine Alain Graillot | 2015-16 | 11/11 | gras with finesse |
| ***(*) | E.Guigal | 2019-20 | 12/11 | rich, also saline |
| ***(*) | Dom Fayolle Fils & Fille Les Pontaix | 2016-17 | 11/11 | wiry, tangy; time |
| ***(*) | Dom Philippe & Vincent Jaboulet | 2017-18 | 11/11 | refined, purposeful |
| ***(*) | Domaine des Martinelles | 2017 | 11/11 | gras lacing, fresh |
| ***(*) | Dom des Remizières Christophe | 2019-20 | 11/11 | chunky; needs foods |
| ***(*) | J Vidal-Fleury | 2017 | 01/12 | great aperitif; w.o.w. |
| *** | Domaine Betton | 2016 | 02/12 | tender, natural |
| *** | Cave de Clairmont Classique | 2016 | 11/11 | rich texture; solo |
| *** | Domaine Alain Graillot | 2014 | 11/11 | pliant, round |
| *** | Le Domaine de Lucie Pitchounettes | 2015 | 11/11 | fat, volume; food |
| *** | Etienne Pochon | 2016-17 | 11/11 | restrained; aperitif |
| *** | Dom de la Ville Rouge Cuvee Nathan | 2016 | 11/12 | rich, oily; foods |
| *** | Les Vins de Vienne | 2016-17 | 02/12 | refined, polished |
| **(*) | M.Chapoutier Petite Ruche | 2018-19 | 06/11 | tight; foods best |
| **(*) | Jean-Luc Colombo Les Gravières | 2014 | 06/11 | easy, early, apero |
| **(*) | Delas Les Launes | 2015 | 06/11 | round, easy access |
| **(*) | Domaine Hauts Chassis L`Essentiel | 2014-15 | 11/11 | flattering, early vin |
| **(*) | Domaine Rousset | 2018-19 | 11/11 | subdued; more fruit pls |
2010 HERMITAGE RED
2010 is excellent here, but it is less obviously marvellous than Côte-Rôtie, and, indeed, is marked by the 2010 hallmark, namely freshness. A very good sign is that no excess power is evident, as in the Chapoutier parcellaire range with obvious candidates for ripeness being the big-south facing Le Méal and its sidekick Les Greffieux. All the Syrahs end constructively and clearly. They can live for 25-30 years, their balance is supremely good.
Jacques Grange of Delas sees it this way: "2010 is air-filled, tight, precise. It is not a high degree year - our Bessards is at most 13.5°. 2010 is less homogenous than 2009, but the best wines are superior to the 2009s." Jean-Louis Chave`s view: "2010 is a finesse vintage, the wines clear and elegant."
I rate 2010 as a vintage whose tone is set by the hierarchy of the hill: the West end sites, with more granite, and less alluvial influence, have outperformed the East end sites. This herds the quality towards the high profile names -Chave, Chapoutier, Delas. Note that Martinelles and Colombier have done well, with fruit taken from Beaume and Greffieux, both pedigree sites around the middle of the appellation.
With the East end wines, I am often a little deceived by relatively workmanlike features; the Cornas 2010s, for instance, often display more character and flair, their fruit absolutely lovely.
Longevity for these wines will be around 15 years, but the best, with balance a prime asset, will live for twenty-five years.
on the WHITE Hermitage, I would add that 2010 beckons much promise, with degrees over 14.0°, but again, no sense of cloying. Their balance indicates a long life ahead.
LEADING HERMITAGE 2010 REDS
| ****** | Cave de Tain Gambert de Loche | 2037-40 | 01/15 | STGT; fresh, gras, balanced |
| ****** | M.Chapoutier L`Ermite | 2041-44 | 07/11 | high grade fruit |
| ****** | M.Chapoutier Le Méal | 2035-38 | 07/11 | generous pleasure |
| ****** | Domaine Jean-Louis Chave | 2049-55 | 11/12 | depth, length, nuance |
| ****** | Delas Les Bessards | 2040-43 | 11/12 | Limo Service, classy |
| ****** | Bernard Faurie [Greffieux + Meal/Bess] | 2039-43 | 11/12 | up to 1929, 1978 |
| ****** | Bernard Faurie [Bessards-Méal] | 2031-34 | 11/11 | noble climat speak |
| ***** | M.Chapoutier Les Greffieux | 2034-36 | 07/11 | restrained, polished |
| ***** | M.Chapoutier Le Pavillon | 2038-42 | 07/11 | clear, structured |
| ***** | Dauvergne Ranvier Vin Rare | 2026-28 | 11/11 | muscle; good future |
| ***** | Delas Domaine des Tourettes | 2036-38 | 11/12 | grounded Hermitage |
| ***** | Ferraton Le Méal | 2033-34 | 02/12 | poise, style; bright fruit |
| ***** | E.Guigal Ex-voto | 2034-37 | 12/14 | boundless fruit, long |
| ***** | Domaine des Martinelles | 2023-25 | 11/11 | stylish, plenty here |
| ***** | Marc Sorrel Le Gréal | 2031-33 | 11/11 | STGT, elegant, pure |
| ****(*) | Cave de Tain | 2033-36 | 01/15 | grass roots, genuine |
| ****(*) | M.Chapoutier M de la Sizeranne | 2030-33 | 07/11 | rolling fruit; clear |
| ****(*) | Domaine du Colombier | 2030-32 | 11/13 | fresh, long balanced |
| ****(*) | Bernard Faurie [Greffieux-Bessards] | 2028-31 | 11/11 | restrained, spinal, STGT |
| ****(*) | Maison Nicolas Perrin | 2026-28 | 11/11 | bountiful, rich |
| ****(*) | Dom des Remizières Cuvée Emilie | 2026-28 | 11/11 | polished; lot of action |
| ****(*) | Tardieu-Laurent | 2026-28 | 11/11 | textured; juiced gras |
| **** | Cave de Tain Epsilon | 2033-35 | 11/12 | lithe, vigorous, oaked |
| **** | Dard & Ribo | 2023-25 | 03/12 | character; tasty fruit |
| **** | E.Guigal | 2034-36 | 12/15 | tight, square, 3/4 weight |
| **** | Dom Philippe & Vincent Jaboulet | 2023-25 | 11/11 | delicate, approachable |
| **** | Gabriel Meffre Laurus | 2023-25 | 11/11 | mild Hermitage |
| **** | Dom Michelas St Jemms Terres d'Arce | 2031-34 | 10/15 | strength, solid gras, fresh |
| **** | Gilles Robin | 2027-28 | 12/15 | authentic, svelte, graceful |
| **** | Vidal-Fleury | 2027-29 | 04/15 | chunky, rich potential |
| **** | Vins Vienne Chirats St Christophe | 2026-28 | 11/11 | manly; patience |
| ***(*) | Saint Cosme La Pierrelle | 2026-28 | 12/12 | neat, compact, mineral |
| ***(*) | Marc Sorrel | 2024-26 | 11/11 | clear, light, Burgundian |
| *** | Domaine Belle | 2024-26 | 11/11 | clinical; only fair now |
| *** | Domaine Yann Chave | 2023-25 | 11/11 | correct, not more |
2010 HERMITAGE WHITE
2010 is a fabulous white Hermitage vintage. I am impressed by the precise quality of the Marsanne this year; rich, yet well-cut, it reminds me of elegant vintages such as 2001 and 2004. The balance is good indeed, and an important gauge is just how good are the wines from those who buy in crop rather than own their own vineyards - Gabriel Meffre, Tardieu-Laurent, Les Vins de Vienne, for instance.
The crop was healthy, for a start, and the ripening occurred gradually rather than suffering extremes of temperature. BERNARD FAURIE recalled "I picked my white Hermitage on 17 September, with degree of over 14°, which is a good date, and a good degree for that date." No wonder, then, that balance in these wines is excellent.
MARC SORREL harvested on 15 September, having lost 10% crop this year against 2009. Both his wines very accurately reflect the vintage and their own provenance. The classic white, made from 1985-88 Marsanne on the well-exposed Les Greffieux near the Cave de Tain, started out closed, but had started to open by late 2011. Meanwhile the ROCOULES, was altogether richer - Rocoules is a classic white terroir - and more reserved, as befits a wine coming in at 14.8°, against the more breezy 12.8° of the classic. The 90% Marsanne on Rocoules dates from the 1930s and the 1950s, so the extra depth is logical.
Bernard Faurie pointed to rain during flowering this year, resulting in coulure (flowers failing to convert into fruit), which hit the Syrah more than the white varieties. His white is a take your time wine, pure and lithe rather than fat; it has a little more body than the 2011, but was entering a closed phase in late 2011, with Bernard anticipating a shut down of 3 to 4 years.
The coulure factor also played chez DOMAINE JEAN-LOUIS CHAVE: “There was a lot of coulure in 2010, and the beauty of it was the balance, even with a small crop," stated JEAN-LOUIS CHAVE. "The work of the assembly was to give it a bit more weight without heaviness. It resembles a good 1996 or 1991,” he told me November, 2012, two months after the wine's bottling.
Another vineyard suffering lowered yields ths vintage was that of DELAS, whose Marsanne on the cool westerly site of Les Grandes Vignes dates from 1912 - yes, pre First World War. "Our crop was only 17 hl/ha," stated JACQUES GRANGE; that was because of an attack of oïdium, which the Marsanne is very subject to." The pH on their MARQUISE DE LA TOURETTE is around 3.4, indicating that it can live and develop well over time.
From PHILIPPE GUIGAL came the recognition that 2010 is a complex vintage. Their Ex-voto is excellent wine, led by its singularly fine features. As PHILIPPE observed in May 2013, though, patience will be required: "this 2010 is very closed, tight. The 2009 is adored by consumers, the 2010 by professionals.”
The other success in 2010 surrounds the site-specific expression in some of the wines. The TARDIEU-LAURENT is made half from Les Murets, composed of 95% 1950s Marsanne; it entirely captures the elegantly rich texture of the vintage, as does the Martinelles white, sourced from heavier low-lying soils on Greffieux, Diognières and La Pierrelle.
Here is a vintage suited to steamed fish, Asiatic cuisine that has sweet spices, and fine dishes including chicken and lobster or crab. It also deserves being drunk out of large glasses, such as the Riedel Syrah, and being decanted.
Longevity can run towards the late 2030s, and I would recommend purchase for those who are prepared to wait for added complexity around 2018 onwards.
LEADING HERMITAGE 2010 WHITES
| ****** | M.Chapoutier L`Ermite | 2038-41 | 07/11 | cracking, symphonic |
| ****** | M.Chapoutier de l`Orée | 2034-37 | 07/11 | grounded, engaging |
| ****** | E.Guigal Ex-voto | 2038-40 | 05/13 | fine, shapely, fresh |
| ***** | Cave de Tain Au Coeur des Siècles | 2032-35 | 01/15 | true, classic, lovely gras |
| ***** | M.Chapoutier Le Méal | 2033-35 | 07/11 | lucid, effortless |
| ***** | Domaine Jean-Louis Chave | 2039-41 | 11/12 | linear, full, complete |
| ***** | Fayolle Fils & Fille Les Dionnières | 2022-24 | 11/11 | tasty, precise, style |
| ***** | E.Guigal | 2035-37 | 05/13 | tight, measured, long |
| ***** | Gabriel Meffre Laurus | 2026-28 | 11/11 | finesse, class |
| ***** | Marc Sorrel Les Rocoules | 2028-30 | 11/11 | silken, continuous |
| ****(*) | M.Chapoutier Chante Alouette | 2027-29 | 06/11 | finely complete |
| ****(*) | Paul Jaboulet Aîné La Chapelle | 2036-39 | 11/16 | close knit, firm, balanced |
| ****(*) | Marc Sorrel | 2024-26 | 11/11 | caressing balance |
| ****(*) | Tardieu-Laurent | 2027-29 | 11/11 | balance; STGT |
| ****(*) | Vins de Vienne La bachole | 2024-26 | 11/11 | style, balance |
| **** | Cave de Tain | 2028-29 | 11/12 | grounded, gd oxidative |
| **** | Domaine du Colombier | 2027-29 | 11/11 | Big Fella; fat, wild |
| **** | Bernard Faurie | 2026-27 | 11/11 | lithe, pure |
| **** | Paul Jaboulet Aîné Chev Stérimberg | 2035-37 | 11/16 | suave, fresh, floral |
| **** | P & V Jaboulet Nouvelère | 2026-27 | 11/11 | vibrant fruit; fine |
| **** | Domaine des Martinelles | 2021-23 | 11/11 | accurate, hand made |
| **** | Maison Nicolas Perrin | 2024-26 | 11/11 | elegant, pure |
| **** | Dom des Remizières Cuvée Emilie | 2025-27 | 11/11 | rich, authentic |
| **** | Dom Remizières Cuvée Particulière | 2018-19 | 11/11 | fat, precise, solo OK |
| ***(*) | Delas Marquise de la Tourette | 2027-29 | 11/12 | frm ****(*); mre body |
| *** | Domaine Belle | 2025-27 | 11/11 | wiry; needs time |
2010 SAINT-JOSEPH RED
Fresh, tight and taut are all words that growers have used, and my tastings so far have agreed. Another crisp, crackling year for the Syrah from the granite of the west bank. Similar shape and form to the other appellations.
Pierre-Jean Villa, ex of Les Vins de Vienne, where he had a major influence in driving the affair forward and sharpening up its quality at the same time: "2010s are fresher than the 2009s, a bit tight, a bit taut, and will please informed drinkers. There is more access to terroir than in 2009. We had the time to get a full phenolic ripening this year. To achieve a similar ripeness in 2009, you risked having a jam side in your wines. I picked 14 October, and my pH was 3.30. This year each region is separate due to the maturity taking longer than in 2009, and alcohol levels are lower."
LEADING SAINT-JOSEPH 2010 REDS
| ****** | E Guigal Vignes de l'Hospice | 2034-37 | 10/15 | complex, stylish depth, v long |
| ***** | M.Chapoutier Les Granits | 2030-33 | 07/11 | harmony, style |
| ***** | Dom Coursodon La Sensonne | 2028-30 | 12/11 | gt quality fruit; oak |
| ***** | Delas Francois de Tournon | 2024-26 | 11/12 | beauty; lovely tasting wine |
| ***** | Delas Sainte-Epine | 2025-27 | 06/11 | total STGT wine |
| ***** | Domaine Faury La Gloriette | 2021-22 | 09/12 | brilliant, many 2010 virtues |
| ***** | E Guigal Lieu-Dit Saint-Joseph | 2033-36 | 10/15 | dense, complete, complex |
| ***** | André Perret Les Grisières | 2023-26 | 10/12 | Grande Année, up frm ****(*) |
| ***** | François Villard Mairlant | 2020-21 | 11/12 | up frm **** ace balance |
| ****(*) | 2024-26 | 05/13 | classy, gaining all the time | |
| ****(*) | 2028-30 | 09/15 | fine, savoury, very long | |
| ****(*) | 2021-22 | 11/12 | scented, long; STGT | |
| ****(*) | Dom Coursodon L`Olivaie | 2024-26 | 12/11 | tasty; yum yum texture |
| ****(*) | Dom Coursodon Silice | 2022-23 | 02/12 | fruit bundles; w.o.w. |
| ****(*) | Pierre Gaillard Les Pierres | 2021-22 | 11/12 | solid, broad, wholesome |
| ****(*) | Bernard & Fabrice Gripa Le Berceau | 2031-33 | 04/16 | complex, mineral, very long |
| ****(*) | Tardieu-Laurent Les Roches VV | 2021-23 | 11/11 | hedonism, dining wine |
| **** | 2023-25 | 09/13 | wholesome; granite typicity | |
| **** | Louis Chèze Prestige Caroline | 2022-23 | 11/12 | subtle, finesse; oaked |
| **** | Yves Cuilleron Les Serines | 2019-20 | 11/12 | snappy; modern, oak |
| **** | Emmanuel Darnaud | 2020-21 | 11/11 | assertive, broad |
| **** | Guy Farge Terre de Granit | 2034-36 | 05/18 | STGT; rocking, bright, flair, long |
| **** | Pierre Gaillard Clos de Cuminaille | 2020-22 | 11/12 | scented, fine |
| **** | Domaine Gonon | 2023-26 | 11/11 | trad; deep fruit |
| **** | Max Graillot equis | 2020-21 | 11/10 | v clear fruit, v long |
| **** | Domaine Jean-Claude Marsanne | 2028-30 | 03/16 | classic, unadorned, true |
| **** | Domaine Monier-Perréol | 2019-21 | 05/15 | deep-seated, good bounty |
| **** | Dom du Monteillet Cuvée du Papy | 2026-27 | 10/12 | vigour, life; wait for acidity |
| **** | Domaine Mucyn | 2021-22 | 11/12 | interesting, juicy, w.o.w. |
| **** | Domaine Novis Cuvée du Prieur | 2022-23 | 11/11 | oily vigour; modern |
| **** | Maison Nicolas Perrin | 2021-22 | 11/11 | STGT; pedigree |
| **** | Domaine des Remizières | 2020-21 | 11/11 | generous, plenty, clear |
| **** | Domaine du Tunnel | 2020-21 | 02/12 | classy palate run |
| **** | Dom G Vernay Terres d`Encre | 2024-26 | 02/12 | fine; racy fruit |
| **** | Pierre-Jean Villa Tildé | 2024-26 | 06/11 | complex, balance |
| **** | François Villard Reflet | 2021-22 | 11/12 | scented fruit; striking |
| **** | Dom d La Ville Rouge Cuvée Potier | 2021-22 | 11/12 | dense, layered; tasty heart |
| **** | Vins de Vienne L`Arzelle | 2019-20 | 11/11 | oily, textured, oak |
| ***(*) | de Boisseyt Chol Les Rivoires | 2019-20 | 11/11 | gd structure; crisp fruit |
| ***(*) | Cave de Tain | 2017-18 | 11/12 | deep; good drive |
| ***(*) | Aurélien Chatagnier | 2017 | 11/11 | genuine; unforced |
| ***(*) | Domaine Courbis | 2020-21 | 11/11 | oaky, quite rich |
| ***(*) | Dom Coursodon Paradis St P | 2022-24 | 12/11 | orderly; all v ripe |
| ***(*) | Dom de la Côte Saint-Épine VV | 2017 | 11/11 | tarry fruit, fine acidity |
| ***(*) | Yves Cuilleron L`Amarybelle | 2021-22 | 02/12 | easy; discreet body |
| ***(*) | Dard & Ribo | 2019 | 03/12 | get on and drink style |
| ***(*) | Dauvergne Ranvier Vin Rare | 2018-19 | 11/11 | gd ensemble; typical |
| ***(*) | Delas Les Challeys | 2017-18 | 06/11 | charming; w.o.w. |
| ***(*) | Domaine Durand Les Coteaux | 2021-23 | 11/11 | gourmand; round |
| ***(*) | Gilles Flacher | 2016-17 | 11/11 | genuine, clean, oak |
| ***(*) | Pierre Gaillard | 2020-21 | 11/12 | balanced, enjoyable |
| ***(*) | Domaine Gripa | 2020-21 | 12/11 | bright fruit; authentic |
| ***(*) | Gabriel Meffre Laurus | 2020-22 | 11/11 | gusto, drive; local promise |
| ***(*) | Domaine Novis Les Bruyères | 2018-19 | 11/11 | fully laden |
| ***(*) | André Perret | 2019-20 | 05/12 | gd drinking, w.o.w. |
| ***(*) | Domaine H & M-T Richard | 2020-21 | 11/11 | juicy fruit, tight for now |
| ***(*) | Gilles Robin André Péleat | 2021-22 | 12/15 | squeezy gras, thick coating |
| ***(*) | Domaine Rousset | 2018-19 | 11/11 | modern, character, w.o.w. |
| ***(*) | Domaine Vallet Muletiers | 2020-21 | 05/12 | complete, long |
| ***(*) | Dom Georges Vernay La Dame Brune | 2025-27 | 11/13 | tight; has potential |
| ***(*) | Pierre-Jean Villa Préface | 2017 | 06/11 | a great drop, w.o.w. |
| ***(*) | Dom Alain Voge Les Vinsonnes | 2018-19 | 11/11 | southern St Jo softness |
| *** | Aléofane | 2015 | 11/11 | correct; drink young |
| *** | Domaine Courbis Les Royes | 2020-22 | 11/11 | international, effective |
| *** | Domaine Durand Lautaret | 2019-20 | 11/11 | bit mainstream |
| *** | Guy Farge Passion Terrasses | 2016-17 | 11/11 | traditional, natural, but ... |
| *** | Domaine de Gouye | 2016 | 11/11 | smoke, pepper, evolution |
| *** | Dom du Monteillet Grand-Duc | 2022-24 | 10/12 | power, apice, acidity, wait |
| *** | Domaine Novis La Capricieuse | 2018 | 11/11 | plenty wine; pushy |
| *** | Domaine Christophe Pichon | 2018-19 | 10/12 | med weight; agreeable |
| *** | Dom Saint Clair abîmes de l'enfer | 2016-17 | 11/11 | gras but lot of oak |
| *** | Cave St-Désirat Coeur Rochevine | 2018-19 | 11/11 | refined, supple, oak |
| *** | Cave St-Désirat Septentrio | 2020-21 | 11/11 | modern, wiry, drive |
| *** | Domaine Vallet Meribets | 2018-19 | 05/12 | peppery, fresh |
| *** | Vins de Vienne Les Archevêques | 2018 | 11/11 | juice, gourmand, oak |
2010 SAINT-JOSEPH WHITE
It is not surprising that 2010 is a successful year for white Saint-Joseph, given the surrounding triumphs at Crozes-Hermitage, Hermitage and Saint-Péray. There is a lot of natural gras in them, and the wines are often presented with a light touch - most are calm, unforced and effortless.
When Roussanne features, its influence comes through noticeably, even in an only 40% wine such as the François Villard Mairlant, for instance. The intrinsic and naturally achieved richness renders many good to drink now. "Harmony" and "roundness" are words that occur in my notes.
The 2010s are extremely food friendly, just like the Crozes-Hermitage white 2010s. Aim for nothing too rich - soft cheeses would be lovely, also the Awkward Squad such as cardoon or baked celery, plus St Jacques, and mushroom dishes such as risottos.
Their degree ranges around 13.5° to 14° quite often - the style is for a full ripening, a waiting policy, and therefore wines with depth. As Jean Gonon, maker of the exemplary Les Oliviers from Tournon, told me: "we pick the white crop at 14.5° - if we had picked the 2010 earlier at 13.5°, the crop wouldn`t have been ripe - the grapes wouldn`t have been golden, and just not ripe."
His neighbour in Mauves, Fabrice Gripa of Domaine Gripa, told me: "2010 was a year of complicated vegetation, stop-go ripening. The grapes were not ripe at the end of August, the véraison was delayed, but we had high degree in them by then. So it was difficult. We started to harvest on 18-20 September; the main result of the September rain was the gain in balance for the white crop. It was a surprising year of very high degree for both whites and reds. My Marsanne this year is rich and alcoholic, so I have blended some Roussanne in with it early, such as for my Saint-Péray Les Pins. The winter was cold this year - under 10°C in the cellar - so the whites have taken their time."
So keep an eye on wines that contain Roussanne - Villard`s Mairlant, the 100% Roussanne Aurélien Chatagnier (although that is skewed by extreme ripening), the 100% Roussannes of Pierre Gaillard and Pascal Jamet`s Vignoble de la Tour d`Arras (not yet tasted), and the accomplished 100% Roussanne Saut de l`Ange from Pierre-Jean Villa.
This is another category to buy, and enjoy, although I marginally prefer the style of the white Crozes-Hermitages this year, and often the latter are a little cheaper.
LEADING SAINT-JOSEPH 2010 WHITES
| ***** | M.Chapoutier Les Granits | 2033-35 | 07/11 | varied, fresh, slow burn |
| ****(*) | Domaine Gonon Les Oliviers | 2022-24 | 11/11 | firm, elegant, long |
| ****(*) | E.Guigal Lieu-Dit St Joseph | 2024-26 | 12/11 | generous gras; precise |
| ****(*) | François Villard Mairlant | 2019-20 | 11/11 | great mix gras, freshness |
| **** | M.Chapouter Deschants | 2018-19 | 06/11 | convivial; w.o.w. |
| **** | Dom Coursodon Paradis St P | 2018-19 | 11/11 | round, ripe, long |
| **** | Domaine Coursodon Silice | 2019-20 | 11/11 | harmony; fine, subtle |
| **** | Yves Cuilleron Le Lombard | 2018 | 11/11 | intricate, ease, grace |
| **** | Yves Cuilleron Lyseras | 2018-19 | 11/11 | harmony, pretty |
| **** | Dard & Ribo | 2018-19 | 03/12 | tender, deep, charming |
| **** | Guy Farge vania | 2015 | 02/12 | w.o.w. easy roundness |
| **** | Ferraton La Source | 2020-21 | 02/12 | delicate, stylish |
| **** | Domaine Gripa Le Berceau | 2022-23 | 03/11 | ripe, rich |
| **** | Pierre-Jean Villa Saut de l`Ange | 2018-19 | 06/11 | lovely fat, good grip |
| **** | François Villard Fruit d`Avilleran | 2017-18 | 11/11 | open, outward, exotic |
| ***(*) | Gilles Barge La Ribaudy | 2018 | 05/12 | authentic, fresh and cool |
| ***(*) | Aurélien Chatagnier | 2015-16 | 11/11 | 100% R; rich, oxidative |
| ***(*) | Delas Les Challeys | 2019-20 | 06/11 | rich, long; food suited |
| ***(*) | Domaine de Gouye | 2015 | 11/11 | tender; STGT |
| ***(*) | Domaine Gripa | 2018-19 | 06/11 | fine-tuned |
| ***(*) | E.Guigal | 2020-21 | 12/11 | gras, finely mineral |
| *** | de Boisseyt Chol | 2016-17 | 11/11 | traditional, supple |
| *** | Cave de Tain Terre d`Ivoire | 2016-17 | 11/11 | supple, agreeable |
| *** | Christope Curtat Sous Amandier | 2017 | 11/11 | assertive flavour |
| *** | Gilles Flacher | 2016 | 11/11 | fusion to come |
| *** | André Perret | 2019-20 | 05/12 | delicate, has spine |
| *** | Dom Christophe Pichon | 2016 | 10/12 | elegant, mild |
2010 SAINT-PÉRAY
Another success here. Depth in the wines, with good balance.
LEADING SAINT-PÉRAY 2010s
| ****(*) | Jean-Louis Thiers Terres Rouilles | 2017-18 | 11/11 | stylish; STGT |
| ****(*) | Vins de Vienne Les Bialères | 2019-20 | 11/11 | classy; fine richness |
| **** | M.Chapoutier Hongrie | 2020-21 | 11/11 | plenty; interesting |
| **** | Yves Cuilleron Les Cerfs | 2018 | 11/11 | fresh, subtle body |
| **** | Domaine Gripa Les Figuiers | 2020-22 | 11/11 | concise, stylish |
| **** | Domaine Gripa Les Pins | 2024-25 | 09/15 | broad, well filled, long |
| **** | Jacques Lemenicier Cuvée Elegance | 2016-17 | 11/11 | shapely, curvy, oak |
| **** | François Villard Version | 2019-20 | 11/11 | compact, full, potential |
| ***(*) | M.Chapoutier Pic et Chapoutier | 2020 | 06/11 | robust, stylish |
| ***(*) | Yves Cuilleron Les Potiers | 2018 | 11/11 | fresh, gras = food |
| ***(*) | Jacques Lemenicier Cuvée Tradition | 2016 | 11/11 | character; aperitif |
| ***(*) | Tardieu-Laurent Vieilles Vignes | 2020-21 | 11/11 | wide, fleshy, fat |
| ***(*) | Domaine Jean-Louis Thiers | 2016 | 11/11 | gt aperitif; w.o.w. |
| ***(*) | Vins de Vienne | 2018-19 | 11/11 | fine, muscular |
| *** | M.Chapoutier Les Tanneurs | 2018 | 06/11 | fresh, close-knit |
| *** | Cave de Tain Fleur de Roc | 2016 | 11/11 | gras and zest; food |
| *** | Domaine Clape | 2019-20 | 10/12 | sturdy; hum of power |
| *** | Vins de Vienne Les Archeveques | 2016 | 11/11 | gras, bit sticky |
| *** | Dom Alain Voge Terres Boisées | 2016-17 | 11/11 | sound; gras, fresh |
| *** | Dom Alain Voge Fleur de Crussol | 2019-21 | 11/11 | spare; may gain |
2010 VIN DE PAYS, VIN DE TABLE, CÔTES DU RHÔNE REDS
2010 VIN DE PAYS WHITES
| ****(*) | Vins de Vienne vdp Seyssuel Taburnum | 2021-22 | 02/12 | great; life, depth |
| *** | Dom Les Alexandrins vdp Les Poupées | 2014 | 11/11 | v gd, fine, precise |
| *** | Xavier Gérard vdp Coll Rhod Viognier | 2016-17 | 10/12 | sturdy, well-filled |
| *** | M & S Ogier vdp Viognier de Rosine | 2017 | 02/12 | fine features, apero |
| *** | André Perret vdp Coll Rhod Marsanne | 2016 | 05/12 | effortless fat; grip |
| *** | Dom G Vernay vdp Le Pied de Samson | 2015-16 | 07/11 | supple, fresh |
| **(*) | Dom du Monteillet Le Viognier | 2018 | 10/12 | scale, for la table |
| **(*) | F Villard vdp Contours de Deponcins | 2016 | 03/12 | tight; intense heart |