2016 LIRAC REDS
Another slam dunk SOUTHERN RHÔNE vintage occurred at LIRAC with their REDs in 2016. The wines hold major richness, properly good body, are long, really well extended, and also carry flair in their delivery. It is a cracking vintage, one of deep colour, gusto, racy fruit, lovely suave richness. I recommend it thoroughly.
The growing conditions were pretty serene, although MARINE ROUSSEL of the biodynamic DOMAINE DU JONCIER told me: “the extremely mild winter of 2015-16 encouraged black rot, and there was also flavescence dorée [a bacterium whose vector is a grasshopper; it hits yields and can kill vines, origin Armagnac, the grasshopper USA] circulating. The trouble is people are demanding insecticides be used against it, but you should be putting life into the vines, not the reverse.”
EARLY YEAR RAINS HELPED OUT THE VINEYARD DURING DRY JULY-AUGUST
The summer saw good weather, with the rain more early than late, which helped the vineyards get through July and August. PASCAL LAFOND of the organic DOMAINE LAFOND ROC-EPINE related: “the balance is the main thing this year, and the ripeness very interesting. Rain at the end of June helped the vineyard through the dry conditions of July and August; it was starting to suffer from drought stress just before the harvest. The wines are complex, have a lot of finesse and elegance. 2016 has less tannin than 2015, and better balance. 2016 is a year that is good for LIRAC as a whole, since the wines can be drunk now, in 2018, so there’s no need to wait, unlike 2015.”
HIGH DEGREES APPARENT
There was one interruption to harvesting in mid-September, when a rain storm produced 65 mm [2.6 in], but otherwise there was a smooth transition from vineyard to cellar. High degree was apparent here and there, which has resulted in many wines putting 15° on their labels – indicating over 15°.
This was confirmed by THIÉRRY USSEGLIO of DOMAINE PIERRE USSEGLIO & FILS, whose wines always carry good, bustling fruit: “we ended the harvest on 22 September,” he recounted. “The GRENACHE came in at 15° to 15.5°. The year was similar in profile to CHÂTEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE – no hail or anything, and no rain between 14 July and 15 August.”
CINSAULT INCLUSION HELPFUL IN BALANCING OUT HIGH DEGREE
There’s enough of the wines’ richness to take care of such degrees often at 15°. I also noted the adroit use of CINSAULT – 10% can be useful – in wines such as the **** DOMAINE DES MURETINS THE **** CLOS DES SERÈNES [20% CINSAULT] and the **** CHÂTEAU DE BOUCHASSY QUATUOR. There was also notable finesse in the tannins from the ****(*) DOMAINE LAFOND ROC-EPINE LA FERME ROMAINE and **** CHÂTEAU DE MONTFAUCON BARON LOUIS.
MAGNIFICENT MOURVÈDRE
All varieties performed well this year, and with the late beautiful weather, the MOURVÈDRE came through with great maturity. PATRICK BRUNEL of the stylish CHÂTEAU SAINT-ROCH pointed this out: “it’s a very beau vintage, with the MOURVÈDRE magnificent – the land is well suited to that, the limestone deposits [éboulis] at SAINT-GENIÈS-DE-COMOLAS are good for it.”
2016 NEXT TO 2015
Several growers made comparisons and offsets with the 2015 vintage. First of all, JEAN-FRÉDÉRIC BISTAGNE of the biodynamic DOMAINE DES MARAVILHAS: “2016 will be good; it connects to 2015, is flattering, has spine, and a firm freshness.” This domaine is one to note; JEAN-FRÉDÉRIC works in the old biodynamic DOMAINE DUSEIGNEUR cellars. His wines are well-fruited, have ageing potential, and the interesting range includes CHÂTEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE, though that is 100% SYRAH, which makes me hesitant.
Next, RICHARD MABY of DOMAINE MABY: “2016 is very beau,” he told me. “The 2015 reds are great, I adore them, and I note they have been well marked by the Americans. The 2015s are robust wines with more concentration than in 2016, which is more on the finesse, and which has better balance, along with less tannin, and more supple tannins than 2015. Both vintages can live well, 2016 with the freshness that characterises it, and I actually think it will age further than 2015, though that is not an obvious statement.”
2016 IS A CLASSIC VINTAGE
RODOLPHE DE PINS of CHÂTEAU DE MONTFAUCON was also enthusiastic: “2016 is a classic vintage; it has very good intensity, with ripeness and freshness at the same time. I worried that the reds would have a jam side to them, but the tannins are fresh – I had been fearing a re-run of 2003. There’s a good balance between fruit, tannin and freshness, a silken side to the wines.”
DOMAINE COUDOULIS
Among the names that readers may be less tuned in to, I highlight the DOMAINE COUDOULIS, their vineyards on galet stone covered clay-limestone soils at SAINT LAURENT DES ARBRES.
There are now three cuvées, starting with the DÉDICACE, a vat raised wine for drinking young, which I first tasted in 2016, then the authentic ***(*) EVIDENCE, which is the big volume wine [40,000 bottles], up to 70% GRENACHE, and lastly, the ****(*) HOMMAGE [10,000 bottles], a wine of impressive length, the 2016 just on the sipping side of town, but capable of showing well over nearly two decades. This is 65-70% mid-1960s GRENACHE, with 30-35% SYRAH, that part of the wine raised in one-year old casks. The EVIDENCE and HOMMAGE 2016s were a step up in quality over the 2015s.
CLOS DES SERÈNES, JULIEN DAUMAS
Someone who started in 2014 is JULIEN DAUMAS who has named his 2.7 hectare domaine the CLOS DES SERÈNES. He is not from a viticultural or agricultural milieu, but always wanted to work the land. Having done wine studies, he has worked at the biodynamic DOMAINE DE LA VIEILLE JULIENNE at CHÂTEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE for the past few years – and continues to do so.
His vineyard was planted in 1966, all with GOBELET training of the vines, on classic SAINT LAURENT DES ARBRES sandy soils. There is no SYRAH, the four variety blend being 60% GRENACHE, 20% CINSAULT, 10% MOURVÈDRE, 10% CARIGNAN. Wild yeasts, only pumping overs, SO2 only applied at bottling, no fining or filtration – this is good, “quiet” wine that for now is sold locally.
“The sandy soils give wines that are en finesse, which suits my style,” he tells me. “I want my wines to be simple, elegant and digestible. 2016 is very rich, concentrated, on alcohol and heat. 2014 was a lot more Burgundian.”
When one observes the mildew challenges of 2018, and the coulure deficit engendered on the GRENACHE in 2017, it is right to rejoice in the mighty bounty of a vintage such as 2016. THESE YEARS DO NOT COME ALONG LIKE LONDON BUSES – THREE AT A TIME! Balance and harmony, and deep filling - it’s as much as one can wish for, so these wines should be stocked somewhere in your cellar, with the magnum size a great move, allowing a really long life over 20+ years.
LEADING 2016 LIRAC REDS
| ****(*) | Domaine Coudoulis Hommage | 2032-34 | 10/18 | soaked, smooth, very long |
| ****(*) | Dom Lafond Roc-Epine Ferme Romaine | 2028-30 | 08/18 | expressive, iron, nerve, length |
| ****(*) | Dom des Maravilhas Pierre Josette | 2031-33 | 09/18 | suave, stylish, cool, gt length |
| ****(*) | Domaine de Marcoux La Lorentine | 2038-40 | 05/19 | delicious fruit, harmonious tannins, V |
| ****(*) | Dom de la Mordorée Reine des Bois | 2034-36 | 10/18 | vigour, bounty, engaging, long |
| **** | Castel Oualou Signature | 2022-23 | 07/17 | copious, fleshy, unctuous |
| **** | Château de Bouchassy Quatuor | 2027-29 | 08/18 | lithe, fresh, intricate, character |
| **** | Château La Genestière | 2027-29 | 09/18 | gourmand, spice, polished, tasty |
| **** | Chât de Montfaucon Baron Louis | 2030-32 | 08/18 | aromatic, finesse, detail, balance |
| **** | Chât Montfaucon M Le Baron de Montf | 2032-34 | 08/18 | elegant, cool, floral, expressive |
| **** | Château Mont-Redon | 2030-32 | 10/18 | tasty, modern, lively bustling |
| **** | Château Saint-Roch Palmes | 2027-28 | 08/18 | natural energy, pedigree fruit |
| **** | Clos des Serènes | 2027-29 | 10/18 | wholesome, genuine, local, long |
| **** | Domaine Amido Hommage | 2030-32 | 10/18 | fluid gras, sunny texture |
| **** | Domaine Coudoulis Dédicace | 2027-29 | 10/18 | stylish, juicy, shapely, enjoyable |
| **** | Domaine Lafond Roc-Epine | 2028-30 | 08/18 | discreetly robust, long, detailed |
| **** | Domaine La Lôyane Elie | 2027-29 | 09/18 | suave gras, ample, oaked |
| **** | Domaine La Lôyane Marie | 2027-29 | 09/18 | big, filled, oaked, authentic |
| **** | Domaine Maby Nessun Dorma | 2030-32 | 09/18 | savoury, tasty, detailed length |
| **** | Dom des Maravilhas Canto-Bruno | 2030-32 | 09/18 | full, gourmand, enjoyable, long |
| **** | Domaine des Maravilhas Pradau | 2032-33 | 09/18 | crisp Syrah, inner strength |
| **** | Dom de la Mordorée Dame Rousse | 2031-33 | 10/18 | vivid, vigour, balanced |
| **** | Dom Moulin la Viguerie Falaises Braise | 2028-30 | 08/18 | aromatic, silk, shapely, restraint |
| **** | Domaine des Muretins | 2024-25 | 08/18 | smashing fruit, zest, w.o.w. |
| **** | Plateau des Chênes Le Temps… | 2031-33 | 08/18 | suave richness, oaking, long |
| **** | Rocca Maura Terra Ancestra | 2025-26 | 08/18 | free, juiced, generous, oaked |
| ***(*) | Château d’Aquéria | 2027-28 | 09/18 | fine fruit, juicy, polite |
| ***(*) | Château de Montfaucon | 2028-29 | 08/18 | fluid, squeezy, gentle, charm |
| ***(*) | Château Saint-Roch | 2027-29 | 08/18 | juicy flow, quiet close |
| ***(*) | Château Saint-Roch Confidentielle | 2031-33 | 08/18 | full, gourmand, fat, stately |
| ***(*) | Chât de Trinquevedel Le Sablon | 2029-31 | 09/18 | stylish, dark, fine, long |
| ***(*) | A Jaume Dom du Clos de Sixte | 2027-29 | 08/18 | spice, grounded, thorough, power |
| ***(*) | Domaine Coudoulis Evidence | 2027-28 | 10/18 | rolling fruit, keen tannin, authentic |
| ***(*) | Domaine La Font de Notre Dame | 2025-27 | 09/18 | appealing sweetness, pleasure, genuine |
| ***(*) | Domaine du Joncier Le Gourmand | 2027-28 | 02/20 | stoked, salt clarity, live fruit, power |
| ***(*) | Domaine Maby Bel Canto | 2031-33 | 09/18 | rich, weighted, spiced, oaked |
| ***(*) | Domaine Maby La Fermade | 2030-32 | 09/18 | vivid, immediate, disjointed, fresh |
| ***(*) | Roger Sabon Lirac by Roger Sabon | 2026-28 | 09/17 | enjoyable, savoury, refined |
| ***(*) | Domaine Pierre Usseglio & Fils | 2028-30 | 09/18 | spiced, close-knit, power |
| ***(*) | Plateau des Chênes | 2028-30 | 08/18 | soft, ample, Redondo, plush |
| *** | M Chapoutier | 2027-29 | 08/18 | swish, supple, high degree |
| *** | Dom des Causses Reserve Syrah | 2024-25 | 10/18 | aromatic fruit, mild, escapist |
| *** | Domaine Corne-Loup Gouverneur | 2029-31 | 09/18 | savoury, quiet, bit plain |
| *** | Domaine Croze-Granier | 2032-34 | 05/19 | rich, pushy, minted, chalky, time |
| *** | Domaine du Joncier regard | 2029-31 | 02/20 | sweet Syrah, charged, tricky to enjoy |
| *** | Domaine Pelaquié | 2022 | 08/18 | suave, supple, instant, OK |
| *** | Gdes Serres Dom des Cigalouns | 2022 | 06/18 | instant juice, bit high degree |
| *** | Ogier Lou Caminé | 2024-25 | 10/18 | squeezy content, plump |
| *** | Vignerons Tavel Hauts d'Acantalys | 2024-25 | 08/18 | dark fruit, oak on top |
| **(*) | Château de Ségriès | 2024-25 | 09/18 | country wine, dry end |
| **(*) | Dom Castel Oualou Réserve Chêne | 2024-25 | 10/18 | oak toffee, plain, bit thin |
| **(*) | Ogier Héritages | 2026-27 | 10/18 | savoury, spiced, but dour |
| **(*) | Vignobles Boudinaud La Saumière | 2021 | 08/18 | supple, sweet, top heavy |