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The Wines

purchased southern zone Syrah from Pont de l’Isère (early 1980s-early 2000s), before 2012 was Syrah (late 1970s-early 2000s) crop from Mercurol, La Roche de Glun, destemmed, not crushed, crop cooled at 15°C 5-6 days, 6 day vinification (down from 11-12 day vinification until mid-2010s) “for easy drinking”, daily pumping overs, aged 40 hl tronconic oak vat 8-9 months (from 2014 – before was 40% 1-6 year ex-Burgundy 228-litre oak casks, some 600-litre oak casks from 2013, 60% concrete vat 4 months), unfined, filtered, screw top closure, “I want a hyper light wine”, 24-40,000 b

2018 ()

(vertical tronconic oak barrel, bottling June 2019) good, dark robe. The aroma on the nose is rather thick, on loganberry dark berry fruit, mulberry, has a sweet centre, is joli, deep. The palate has a juicy, open start, offers fleshy appeal, verve within its tangy, smoked dark berry fruit. There’s a ripe fruit emphasis here, black berry fruits central to it. It ends on some spice, clarity. It will appeal. “Acidities aren’t high; this has our best pH,” Maxime Graillot. 13.5°. 2023-24 Dec 2018

2017

bright purple-red; the nose shows reduction, so needs decanting, a fruit gum-red fruit pastilles aroma. The fruit is pure, rather striking. The palate has a cool vegetal style thread through it, gives loose and darting mulberry-blueberry fruits, cut on the finish, where it sops a bit suddenly, tar on the aftertaste. It isn’t an ensemble, is very puckish wine for grills and similar dishes: don’t study it too closely. 13°. 2023-24 GB £120 per 12 b i/bond H2Vin quintessentially@h2vin.co.uk +44(0)203 073 6655  Nov 2018

2017

red robe; there are floral notes, red berry airs in a rather quiet nose, nettles, raspberry. The plate holds simple red fruit, is quietly expressed, not especially full and drifts before a rather grainy close. It’s light, Gamay-like, needs more richness – just a tad, to do its job better. Bottled June 2018. To 2022. Dec 2018 Previously Nov 2018 *** bright purple-red; the nose shows reduction, so needs decanting, a fruit gum-red fruit pastilles aroma. The fruit is pure, rather striking. The palate has a cool vegetal style thread through it, gives loose and darting mulberry-blueberry fruits, cut on the finish, where it stops a bit suddenly, tar on the aftertaste. It isn’t an ensemble, is very puckish wine for grills and similar dishes: don’t study it too closely. 13°. 2023-24 GB £120 per 12 b i/bond H2Vin quintessentially@h2vin.co.uk +44(0)203 073 6655  Nov 2018

2016 ()

red robe. There is slight reduction, meatiness on the nose which isn’t fully together, has airs of mulled, crushed red berries. There is a loose delivery on the palate, which has ins and outs, rather functional black fruits present, but no real HQ for the wine. It ends on mineral, pebbly touches. I find it rather all over the place. 13°. 40,000 b. From spring 2018. To 2020 Nov 2017 GB £15.75 Yapp Brothers +44(0)1747 860 423 www.yapp.co.uk sales@yapp.co.uk

2015 ()

dark red. Has a broad, obvious, reductive nose with a coated thickness, mulched berries, a strong coulis of blackberry fruit present. The black berry theme takes up again on the palate; this is juicy, flashy wine in style. Fine tannin lies within, a graininess which helps it to remain fresh on the second half. It is exuberant and upfront. 13°. 2021-22 Nov 2016 GB £101 12 b in bond H2Vin www.h2vin.co.uk info@h2vin.co.uk +44(0)203 478 7376

2014 ()

gentle, pale red robe with a light rim. Rose hip, soaked red cherries airs, strawberry jam. This is scented, easy going, collects a little gras, has a fruit pastille flavour. It runs straight along. Drink with grills. It is direct, easy to drink, has a peppery aftertaste. 13°. Bottled 25 Aug 2015. “We were hit by hail,” Maxime Graillot. To 2017  Oct 2015

2013 ()

bright purple-red colour. Lively, even racy bouquet – airs of blackberry fruit and oak, a ripeness that is flashy more than subdued. This reminds me of a young Pinot Noir; it is peppery, has a good flow along the palate, the 2013 vintage pepper in abundance on the exit. The fresh finale also involves licorice. Has crisp fruit, is an airborne, fun wine – le zinc, here we come. 13°. £90 12 b in bond H2Vin GB www.h2vin.co.uk 2018  Nov 2014

2012

fair depth red robe. Reduction hangs above the bouquet, red berry, mulled fruits – the aroma is rather dense on the quiet, isn’t obviously deep, but lingers. The palate holds fat, mulberry, mulled fruits, is rich and has a sweet undertone. It lengthens into more crunchy, pebbly moments, the exit clear. It is a wee bit raw on the finish. Decant this. “My new supplier since this year works the soils, is organic and is a better vineyard manager than my previous one,” M Graillot. 24,000 b. To 2018  Nov 2013  Previously Nov 2012 ***(*) (oak part, used 228-litre cask, sugars, malo completed, includes the press wine) good, deep red colour. Slight reduction, but a firm setting for the nose which has good, solid content, is led by red cherry. The palate is nice and thorough, has a toffee flavour, is tight but has gras richness. The ending isn’t tough, either – it is aromatic. A wine of solid foundation. From mid-2014. “This has a true northern character, fruit which continues, a handsome austerity,” Maxime Graillot. 2019-20  Nov 2012

2011

bright, nicely full red. Reduction features on the nose with the core led by toffee, black pepper – needs decanting. The palate starts plumply, has a fat ridge before sending in more tar and grip in a charry end. I think it is closing, is in transition. “It was more clear and fruited. It is between a bar drinking and table wine now,” Maxime Graillot. It has matter, needs a spot of patience, rated for what can happen after that patience. 12.5°. To 2018.  Nov 2012

2010

dark, oily robe; baked, complex nose with a slight hang dog air, bits of game in it – is a very typical southern sector Crozes nose. The palate offers blackberry, rather free fruit with a little steel in its tannins; it travels well, provides good drinking, can be solo, is persistent. Good body and length. There is a bit of grain and dust on the aftertaste. Good and very drinkable, but it does have hidden corners and style as well. 13°. To 2019. Feb 2012 Previously Nov 2010 ***(*) good, full robe. Great nose - silken, round black fruit – it is inviting and full of charm, offers spice notes, some lees still. A spice-pepper debut to the palate, which has good spine running through it, leading to a fresh finish. Good clarity here - a great road runner, get on and do. w.o.w. wine. 2014-15 Nov 2010

2008

red-purple robe; very peppery, live bouquet with a red jam, soft inlay. Has the vintage freshness and a light floral, damask rose top air. The palate fruit is gummy in nature – it offers a fine, rather thin fruit that ticks along until a peppered ending. Not enough secure fruit in this. The air steadies it, brings out more vivacious fruit, fun drinking, moves to toffee on the finish. A fragile wine that by Day 2 was bitter. 13°. To 2013. Jan 2010