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The Wines

30-60% Grenache (1950s), 30-45% Mourvèdre (1945-50), 10-25% Syrah (1980), 80% from yellow clay-limestone soils on the Saint Martin slope, destemmed, 3-4 week concrete vat vinification, at 1040 density juice taken out, oak racks (claies) put in on the cap to submerge it, juice pumped back in, left for 2 weeks till end fermentation, concrete vat raised 8-9 months, unfined, light filtration, organic, biodynamic wine, 28-50,000 b

2018 ()

attractive, nicely full red robe; the bouquet expresses the garrigue well, coupling herbs with gorse, thyme, ash smoke and a neat pocket of plum fruit. The palate holds pleasing, tasty plum and raspberry fruit, is expressive, the attack giving it momentum, before a more quiet second half and close, which has a little rocky tannin present. There’s great purity of fruit here. This is elegant, deft, well defined Cairanne, as it should be, with a stroking quality to the fruit. It will extend further over time, and is one of the leading 2018 Cairannes, very stylish. 14.5°. 60% Gren, 30% Mourv, 10% Syr. €14.50 at cellars. From late-2021. 2029-31 Aug 2020


(vat) dark red robe, a full hue. The bouquet is expressive, and true of good old vine Grenache, carries the floral curve of it with refined, neatly sweet and pleasing notes. The palate is ripe, almost on a note of noble Volatile Acidity, has a savoury presence, with plump, squeezy content, a lip smacking, gourmand take on life. This is aromatic, fat, spherical Cairanne that will please. From mid-2020. 2033-35 Mar 2019


(vat, bottling April 2018) shiny, bold dark robe. There’s reduction, but also pure black fruit within the wide bouquet, black cherry and blackberry with wee grilling and dried thyme. There’s still a raw angle to it, an animal note. There has been no SO2 added yet. The palate debut is squeezy, holds sound richness, good, layered content, and tannins that stretch out well. The Grenache gives a plum presence, and there’s something of blood oranges towards the finish. There is good, well-knit content on the first half, while the tannins need time, are a bit febrile for now on the second half. There are flashes of Mourvèdre darkness here and there, the length genuine and fresh. It’s making its way gradually. “A further winter will aid it, will polish it up”, Frédéric Alary. From late 2019/2020. 60% Gren, 30% Mourv, 10% Syr. 2032-34 Oct 2017

2015 ()

(vat) dark red. The nose comes out broadly, gives mulled berry fruits, a notion of herbs. The palate starts on a spritzy, carbonic gas feel, bears blackberry fruit with a piling in of tannin along the second half. This is in a raw state now, but can fuse and blossom. 14°. 40,000 b. 60% Gren, 30% Mourv, 10% Syr. Cairanne wine, not Villages. From 2018. 2024-25  May 2016


(vat) dark robe. The nose delivers a fresh, right out of the vat, open and fruited aroma, a lively and agreeable start. Blackberry is the prime fruit. The palate is stylish, the fruit fun and clear. This is a real drink at the bar wine now, though it has enough depth for grills, steaks, barbecues. It finishes long and roundly, with fine droplets of fruit there. It offers good packaging of fruit and tannins, with all-important balance and hence drinkability. Balanced and very good. 14.5°. 2021-22  April 2015


dark robe marked by a deep purple of the Mourvèdre. The nose is appealing, has a wide aroma of black berry fruit, is sympa and welcoming. The palate attacks with soft red fruit; its tannins are very good and snug, have notable quality. This is polished and long, a well made wine. The length is boosted by the Mourvèdre, with wee notes of licorice and fine cocoa on the exit. Very good. 14°. Only 28,000 b this year. Bottled Dec 2014. “Some of our Grenache gave the most miserable yield of 2-10 hl/ha, even on the young vines, so the Grenache this year in this is just 30%, instead of 60%. 30% Gren, 45% Mourv, 25% Syrah, therefore. From spring 2016. 2022-23  Feb 2015

2012 ()

pretty dark red. The bouquet is enjoyable, lucid – there is an air of pressed red berry fruit with some lift, and also a cocoa style depth. It takes the airborne over the grounded route, is well varied with lightly spiced and Zan licorice aromas as well. This is delightful – it is led by expressive dark fruits, and a healthy darkness of tannin that adds late weight. This is intricate, is a wine made up of lots of little detail. It is shapely, handsome, true, STGT wine. This will be especially good around 2018 and 2022. 60% Gren, 30% Mourv, 10% Syrah. 2026-27  Apr 2015 Previously Oct 2013 *** (vat) dark red robe, black tints. There are hints of dark jam, cassis fruit on the nose, a Mourvèdre-Syrah effect, plus a little game and highness. The nose has give in it, is sweet and gummy. The palate has a tasty flavour, leads on flowing black fruit laced with menthol and peppermint. Pretty well assembled, potentially a free drinking wine. Low-key sweetness and a compressed flavour here. From mid-2014. 14°. 2018-19  Oct 2013

2010 ()

shiny dark red, purple in it. Has a nice crunchy fruit aroma, young nutty notes also, but it is deep and full of potential. There is a classy oiliness in its ripeness, and garrigue, baked stones notions will emerge, too. The palate is also classy; it gives a prolonged, steady run of suavely textured black fruit, with comfortable tannins resident inside – these have “shine” in them. Really good structure – this is up with the best 2010s. Needs another 15 months to integrate the grain on the finishing tannins. Good balance. Storming value at £13.75 in GB, VineTrail. 14.5°. 2021-23 Feb 2012

2009 ()

the nose is a bit yeasty, I cannot be sure how clean this is. The palate black fruit is abundant, has good, full heart. It ends drily, becomes rather curly. I am not sure about this. Given the benefit of the doubt. 50,000 b this year. March 2011


½ bottle: quite a full red; peppery, open nose, very vintage 2008 – offers low key black fruit and jam, cassis, but there is also buffed leather, licorice. Live black fruit on the attack, then it gains a more measured mid-late palate presence. The length is correct, the finale fresh. Agreeable wine. Has a very herbal palate, and is great with gigot of lamb (the leg) in a cream garlic sauce, crème d`ail. An enjoyable wine of good substance with no excess baggage. The Mourvèdre helps it to keep ticking over, although there is a light fade after being open 1+ hours – but it is a ½ bottle. 14°. 2015-16 June 2010


½ bottle: quite a bright red, with a black core. The bouquet coasts along on a gentle wave of black fruit, a curl of blackberry – it is inviting, and given spine by a steady line of licorice. Seasoned fruit with prune influences on the palate – the fruit ripe, but within limits. It ends safely on a little ripe tannin, already drinks well. It has an inherent fullness from its zone. As it breathes, the air quite correctly tightens it up, brings cocoa and smoke to the bouquet, and a more streamlined, less unctuous palate. An ace drop, has real sex appeal. If you want variety and greater complexity, drink from mid-2011. It is good with a rabbit terrine at Castel Mireio in Cairanne, and a filet of daurade makes it more mineral. Classic w.o.w. wine. 14°. 2015-16 Nov 2009 Previously March 2009 *** full robe; the aroma mixes chocolate and crunchy, live black berry fruit – it is wide, and holds up, is an overtly solid do. The cocoa-chocolate theme resurfaces on the palate – there is a deep inner fabric here. Suggests a wine from a sunny zone (tasted blind), maybe a south-facing hill. A serious wine with serious heart and good balance. The length is correct. w.o.w. for the restaurant trade. 2013-14 March 2009

2006 ()

(vat) macerated berries, with some heat, the hot stones, in a broad bouquet. Good, brisk start to palate, and is substantial in mid-palate. Displays black berries, garrigue herbs also. Good heart to this. To be bottled June 2007. 2013-14 Tasted March 2007


full robe. Broad, quite strapping nose – black fruits, a little violet, the fruit here is clear. Nice generous start, carries richness without excess, not forced in any way. A lot of licorice at the end from its Mourvèdre. Fine harmony, a wine that skips along smoothly. Gains chewiness late on, its tannins do a good job to keep it going and to add interest. Solid, but clean-cut. 14.5° - does not show this. A belle expression of its zone. 2015-16 June 2006

2004 ()

tight-knit, fairly full bouquet, with some gamey, meaty instincts. It is a little reduced from its ripe Syrah. The palate fruit comes in a cooked style, with a tannic burst in mid-palate, the fruits dark. Quite punchy alcohol towards the finish, that reflects the vintage and its two-speed ripening. Plenty more to come. A wine of character, good black fruit and thrust. The tannins will be softer by 2008, but I like its young vigour now. 2014-15 June 2006


nice lustre on the robe, sound depth of colour. There are leathery, wood airs on the nose. The flavour is quite agreeable, not as big and bold and sustained as the Brusset and Ameillaud Cairannes, is a dimension below them. But it has a good, licorice style finale - Mourvèdre helpful here. 2000-01 July 1995