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The Wines

33% each Roussanne, Marsanne, Bourboulenc, low 20 hl/ha yields, wild yeasts, part vat, part ex-Château d’Yquem 2-3 year oak cask fermented, raised 5-6 months, malo blocked, 2,000 b

2012

apricot, pale gold, unusual robe. Has a buttery, lemon curd air, with apricot jam, brioche. The palate delivers mango, guava, tropical fruits flavours along with peach, has a plump nature, a fat, gourmand way about it. Shows what one might term “constructive oxidation”, so is out of the loop, and certainly not an aperitif. Suited to foods such as sweetbreads, sauced fish, lobster, Vieille France cuisine. Rich, rather husky but also traces of freshness, isn’t overdone. The finish is good since it involves tannin and grip, so is firm. Definite character here. 13°. 2018-19  May 2013

2011

deep yellow, gold patches, legs down the glass. There is a powered intensity on the nose, has an air of cooked pear, apricot, gives a near sherry form and aroma. The palate is in transition now: it is sealed in its offering of fruit flavour, except for a quite rich nuttiness with a salty, white raisin tang. It reaches out for foods such as pork and apples, quail, guinea fowl in white raisins, for instance. The style of rich, advanced notes is no accident, is deliberate. Decanting a help. 13°. €15. To 2018  May 2013

2010

mild, creamy yellow robe. Nutty/hazelnut or peanut, bit acetate aroma – the bouquet is firm. Good substance in the attack – this has weight and follow-through, lengthens well. A wine with character. Nice body, suited to food. 13°. To 2016. March 2011

2007 ()

2 different wines, 3 days apart: **(*) appley, full nose with baked fruits in the aroma – it is sweet and rather oxidative. The palate is quite rich – this is unusual with its sultry nature, but it does grip on the finish, rather than lie down and fade. Food is best with this. To 2011-12. “I didn`t expect it, but it was formidable with oysters, otherwise spiced, white sauced fish such as monkish or sea bass,” Marine Roussel. March 2009, at Tavel. Bottle 2 was overtly oxidised, and flat. March 2009, Avignon.