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The Wines

45-60% Clairette (early 1980s), 25-40% Grenache blanc, 0-20% Roussanne, 0-10% Viognier from galet stone, clay-limestone soils at Roquemaure (the ex Verda Cantegril vineyard), 60-70% steel vat fermented at 14-16°C, 30-40% in 50% new, 50% 1-year 228-litre oak casks over 3 weeks with lees stirred, raised 6-7 months, malo completed on the oaked wine, 25,000 b

2017 ()

pale yellow, a clear robe. White fruits feature in a discreetly stylish nose that bears a neat, precise clarity, is mildly floral. It’s a harmonious start. The palate is modernista, pepped up by carbonic gas, holds soft content, white fruits such as peaches precede a tang-grip emergence towards the finish, the aftertaste on cooked citrus, cut. This drinks with a little buzz, ends solidly enough, carries rather well, is perky on the aftertaste. It has been well made, in the modern vein, and can evolve, too. 13.5°. 2022-23 Sept 2018

2014 ()

pale yellow. This has an elder, peach aroma, with apricot, nuttiness from its oak, licorice, too. Decant it so you get more from the bouquet. The palate rests on dried fruits, greengage plum with stealthy grip. There is a bit of sweetness from the oak. It’s a sound white Lirac, if a little made by formula. There are spiced notes on the close. 13.5°. 2020-21 Nov 2016 Previously Nov 2015 *** pale yellow. The bouquet is quietly stylish, gives a spiced air with peach fruit, light aniseed. The palate starts softly, has lifted freshness, the flavour centres on white stone fruits. This is a bit of a skimmer. The juice is attractive, and it is nicely together. OK, but could have more flair. 13.5°. 60% Clairette, 30% Gren bl, 5% Rouss, 5% Vio. Bottled Apr 2015. To 2020 GB £95 12/b in bond or £11.96. Justerini & Brooks www.justerinis.com  Nov 2015 

2012

flinty, pale robe that is bright, has green tints. There are verbena, lavender touches in a pear, floral, spring flowers aroma, has a light note of licorice. The palate is a lightly elegant affair, even if it is subdued after bottling - bottled yesterday. It doesn’t go for strength, runs simply, emphasizes aroma on both nose and palate. Wait until Sept 2013 for this. 13.5°. To 2018. €10.90.  May 2013

2011 ()

pale, shiny yellow. Butter, lemon and lime aroma, the various strands of it all nicely grouped – this is a clear, inviting bouquet that is graceful, if quite reticent. The palate has a close-fitting debut, its lead flavour aniseed, fennel, infused tea, so it has changed from its first, juvenile fruit flush. Toffee, fudge notes appear to bring a sweet, ripe note later on. Good. It draws to a quiet close, as if just closing for a while. 13.5°. 45% Clair, 25% Gren bl, 20% Rouss, 10% Vio this year. 2017-18  May 2013

2010 ()

pale yellow, green tints. Pear fruit with an iodine influence on the nose, also a low-key gras; it hides its power rather well. This is a tightly structured, unyielding wine, with a lining of almost “steely” sides. A techno sort of white that is effective but needs more soul (tasted blind). If left to 2013, it will loosen and be more enjoyable. An arm's length wine. I note the 2nd use of the word soul in the notes. 13.5°. To 2017. July 2011 Previously March 2011 ** (vat/oak, bottling in two months) pale yellow; overt oak, pineapple, rather intense air. Warm oaking on the palate, white jam in the flavour. A plain wine that needs more soul. From 2012. To 2016. March 2011

2008

pale robe; fresh, zesty style bouquet, offers cooked fruits such as pear, peach. Has agreeable life in it, is a wee bit reductive, could be opened early or decanted. The palate comes out running, drinks now, has decent length, ends on apple, a little crème patisserie, is clear-cut. Not have great depth, but is a good drink, esp for the aperitif. 13°. To 2013. Dec 2009

2007 ()

pale robe; has a tight, nutty nose, comes with high tone, and lime tart – the Clairette dominates, brings its “steel” to the game. The palate is enclosed, firm, and lacks easy flesh – an upright wine, but one that can move along as it ages. It is very clear towards the finish. Inside the taste is of nougat or almond. Rather good style and lively length, and a hint of late oak and muscle tell me this can do OK. 2012-14 Nov 2008

2006

overt nose – it is fat, with pear, honey and a little spice and a wee oak note. The palate has a savoury texture – it is suave, and has some late grip. There is a shade of burn after from the oak. Good as an aperitif, or with simple foods. It bounds along with grilled fish. Now to 2010. June 2007