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The Wines

100% Marsanne from clay-limestone over granite soils on Hongrie (1970s), whole bunch pressing, wild yeasts, oak cask fermented at 17° C, raised 1-2-3 year old 600-litre oak casks on lees 8 months, lees stirred, then steel vat 2 months, malo completed, first wine 2010, organic, biodynamic wine

2016

has a firm yellow robe, pear skin touches. The nose is close-knit, on potential over open delivery. There’s a hint of flan, cooked pear, grape essence, and a little cool mineral air lifting it. This attacks on fleshy, squeezy content, is an enjoyable ball of texture and fluid richness. Flavours of dried fruits, nectarine show through, and it ends roundly. It is ideal for la table – salmon, pork. It has a good Marsanne thread of spine through it, so isn’t floppy. The finish is grapey, with tang. It persists well, shows something of a red wine assertion on the finish. 13°.  2023-24 Feb 2018

2015 ()

substantial yellow robe. The nose is square in shape, gives a resilient aroma brioche, baked bread just out of the oven, with peach fruit. The palate has a spritzy debut, probably engineered by carbonic gas use, with exotic fruits such as pineapple and mango at its centre. The finish is lightly floral. I find it a little over contrived with the ripeness of the crop and the gas, but it drinks easily enough. 13°. 2021-22 Oct 2016

2012 ()

fair yellow robe. The first air draws together varnish, wax, a bonny oiliness, with subdued pear, aniseed, lime – there is decent style in the bouquet. The palate has a grippy, tight style, the quietness after bottling. It is set to expand. The nut and tang of the Marsanne are in strong evidence here. It holds gras richness, but it is always held in check by a spot of tannin. A wine for food – try vegetarian pasta, courgettes. Decant it to free it. Especially from mid-2014. 14°. 2022-23  Nov 2013

2011 ()

medium, rather rich yellow robe. The bouquet shows good style – the aroma is broad and sustained, offers little dollops of spice in its greengage, white plum fruiting: this is a good start. This drinks well now, spurred on by a mix of oily texture and more snappy white fruit flavour. The finish carries gras and pleasing depth. This is right up for sauced dishes, and white meats – it is a brilliant table wine. There is very good Marsanne tang on the finish. The minerality on the aftertaste is very true, sets well into STGT quality. 13.5°. 2020-21  Nov 2013  Previously Nov 2012 ***(*) full yellow. Wide bouquet, with mass across it and within it. There are notes of peach-apricot, dried fruits, a slice of petrol à la Riesling, fennel. The crop has had a long ripening to achieve this exoticism. The palate is wide-shouldered, provides a drizzle of hazelnut and almond down its flanks. It lacks precise definition now. There are cooked, stewed apricot fruit flavours in its rather manly make-up. It ends in compact manner, with a nutty aftertaste, a light honey trail. A wide white wine – decant it. Up to large flavoured dishes. 13.5°. 2018-19  Nov 2012

2010

definite yellow tints, quite a full robe; silky, suave surround to the nose, resembles a baked crumble, a pie with fruit such as apricot – the nose is tangy and scaled up. The palate starts on gras richness and oiliness, keeps flowing and is not static. Holds a well judged richness with the St Péray freshness coming through towards the finish. A wine for dishes not aperitif. Oak emerges near the end, where there is flavouring of hazelnut and honey. A wine for classic dishes such as lobster, or almond desserts, full flavours. Interesting wine – plenty to taste and talk about. The attack is more full than the finish. Decant this. From 2013. 2020-21 Nov 2011 Previously July 2011 ***(*) (cask/vat) sound yellow; spiced, expressive nose, the fruit mainly pineapple, cooked apricot the bouquet is a wide traveller. Full start to the palate; there is a wide mass here. Its oaking is absorbed by much content until late on. A chunky Saint-Péray, not a discreet operator, one suited to sauced foods. It could be more subtle. Has a salty end. From 2015 for more Saint-Péray of local truth, can be drunk from 2013. 2019-20 July 2011