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The Wines

60-65% Grenache, 25-30% Syrah, 5-10% Mourvèdre, 1-5% Cinsault from 3 different soils (clay-limestone terraces, stone covered alluvial soils, sandstone) 30-100% destemmed, 20-28 day vinification, daily cap punchings, daily pumping over, part vat emptying and refilling, raised in concrete vat, 2-5 year 40 hl large barrels, 1-2 year 400 & 600-litre oak casks, new 228-litre oak casks 12 months, filtered since 2007, 38,000-80,000 b

2017 ()

red robe, hint of top purple. The bouquet rests on a couch of mulberry, dark red berry fruit, a sense of sweetness in it, rather jelly like. It’s very young, and not varied. The palate bears elegant content, a sensuous roll of red fruits, is polished, and uncomplicated. It finishes roundly. It’s an easy access Gigondas, lacking the cut and mystery of the leaders. The fruit is on the go now, so it can be drink already, with veal, pork dishes an option. 2028-30 Oct 2019

2016

dark red robe; the bouquet has a simmering intensity, lines up raspberry fruit with a note of sage, sweet herbs. There’s plenty of scope for the future. The palate is shapely, continuous, runs with a firm, polished hand, the red fruits showing their rather intense juice only carefully on the second half. The aftertaste is lip-smacking. This is one for the future, although its balance allows drinking now. I would like it when it is less all about primary fruit, and more about local colour, nuance. From 2022. 2036-38 Oct 2019 Previously Oct 2017 **** (vat/barrel/casks) good sheen in the dark red, black tinted robe. Black berries mix in with rosemary, sweet herbs, on the nose. It’s a clear start. The palate holds dark fruits with a stream of licorice-infused tannins; it stretches out well, in a sustained manner. There is concentrated Grenache juice at its heart, released only sparingly for now. This will do well over time: drink from 2020. 2031-34 Oct 2017

2015

still dark robe; the nose shows the smoky cut of this fresh vintage, with a discreet raspberry presence and a note of vegetal, crunch. It’s in transition now between first youth and the start of a second stage, so is in slight lockdown. The palate bears smoky content, with further notes of vegetal, dried herbs, coolness along its path, with direct flanks of red plum fruits. There is a tiny saline moment on the aftertaste, a menthol note there. It’s not fused, and will be best left until 2022. It has more Gigondas character than the 2016 [very vintage-led] and 2017 [polished, bit simple]. 2032-34 Oct 2019

2014

(vat/casks) dark red. Has a raspberry aroma with nice spring in its step, comes with a free quality, which also appears on the palate – it gives a swell wave of coulis, black berry fruit there. The finish is salted, has a date flavour. Modern, a little arm’s length, but will please. €18.50. From mid-2017. 2025-26  Dec 2015

2013

(vat/casks) bright purple colour. Has a lifted red and dark berry nose with a hint of licorice and dark olives. The palate is fresh and vibrant, the fruit ripe but poised. Has firm but refined tannins on the finish. Good length and persistence. It is elegant in style. From mid-2016. 2027-28 JL  Dec 2014

2012 ()

(vat/casks) dark red, purple. Has a warm, soaked fruits and garrigue make-up on the nose, a plump aroma of local richness, a strike of licorice. The palate starts on discreetly muscular, packed red fruit that delivers baked notes late on, the fruit compressed there. Very young, and quite forceful from within. Late salty notes liven it. Solid quality Gigondas. From 2016. 38,400 b. €15 at cellars. 38,400 b. 2026-27  Dec 2013

2011 ()

(vat/casks) rather dark red colour. The nose shows reduction, an air of warm, round blackberry fruit, an earthy air form the reduction. It has the prominent fat of 2011, and will end up roundly. The palate black fruit travels freely; it is full of beans now in its youth, and is backed by a quiet set of tannins and their grain. A clean-winded Gigondas that is orderly, and can charm and sing a tune, especially around 2016 onwards. A tiny bit tame. 14°. €15 at cellars. 2024-25  Dec 2012

2010 ()

(casks) dark red, black present. Oak-toast-charcoal first air, then blackberry jam air under that and slight notes of pine and menthol. Has a well-textured prune and black fruit flavour, with local herbs and pine needle. It ends on a rounded, curved gras – there is a soft spot there, even if the wine is a tiny bit on the stretch from its vinification methods. From 2013. 2025-26 Dec 2011

2009 ()

(bottling in mid-2011, three months time) level red robe. Gracious, slightly sweet red fruit, pastille aroma with light herb influences. Lightly gourmand attack – friendly red fruit – this is easy to drink. It skates along before showing a little late mineral and kick from its tannins. Subtle qualities. There is more here than on the surface. From 2013. 2020-22 March 2011 Previously Oct 2010 **** (casks) shiny, quite dark robe; mint, licorice, vibrant first air, comes with definite tang, a good local aroma. Blackberry fruit leads the palate, has poise and presents a collected ensemble of its elements – promising wine here. It is juicy and thorough, well put together. Ends on licorice, its tannins safe and sound, if a little square for now. From 2013. 2023-25 Oct 2010

2007 ()

fairly dark robe, purple at top. Reduction is the first hit on the nose, but the fruit inside seems clear, bears a quiet trail of raspberry and emerges with herbs attached. The palate needs decanting – only half the job has been done. The fruit has a gummy, locked up nature with consequent earthy, sweet prune flavours. The tannins are largely built in, the length is sound. From mid-2010, and double decant this. 2019-20 Dec 2009

2006

gently maturing red, plum colour. The nose is bonny – it mixes earthiness with a fine floral drift, has good quality, and even though it has been decanted, is not fully there yet. It is wide and sustained, all it needs is a bit more expression, burst. The palate is firm, gives a charry intensity, holds densely packed berry fruit with in-built tannins couching it, a sturdy underlay. Has hardly got going yet. Genuine Grenache heart here, and it is a wine that is all together. 14.5°. 2024-26  July 2012  Previously Jan 2008 ***(*) (vat/cask) good red, a bit of magenta. Peppery, young aroma that bears rather silken red fruits, comes in a clean, modern style. Decent flow of red fruit along the palate; this is maybe a low SO2 wine, feels like that, has had a clean extraction. Oak tightens it at the end, but it can come together. From 2011.  2020-21  Jan 2008

2005

black cherry colour. Has a smoky, cocoa style aroma – there is a deep inset of black berries and cherries; it is upright at first. The palate has a good, full start, the flavour being like black cherries. The fruit is accomplished, nice and bright, smooth and consecutive. It ends on a rounded note, with still some tannin present. There is some late garrigue and tobacco in the taste. A wine of very good balance, also length, with a good freshness as it closes. The oak has been well applied. Beau, can be stylish. From late 2009. 2019-20 June 2008

2004 ()

quite a dark, matt robe; black berry, smoky aroma with ripe fruit that has some hung animal in it, towards reduction in nature. The palate bears mature fruit with quite a rich centre to it, with a prune-tea aftertaste. It is a touch reserved now – the wine is rather sulky, but there is decent richness within. Ends on some heat. A wild sort of wine that is not especially balanced. 2010-11. Dec 2006

2003

three-quarter depth in the red. Grilled, fairly broad bouquet, attractive floral top note, led by Grenache. Well-cut fruit on palate, with a solid frame for this bottle tasted in London. In the Rhône two months ago there was a soft fruit attack, pure and easy to like. Some tannin on finish. Fair style, but lacks soul. More aromatic from 2007. 2013-15 May & March 2005

2001

still firm, matt light red, with orange tints. Baked aromas, a wide debut. Shows nutty, rather plum style fruit airs. The palate is quite solid, but stiff, with dry moments late on. This is not a real free n’easy wine – it has a tight tannic wrap and late heat, ending a bit abruptly. It is fresh, but doesn’t really deliver gras. I wonder if there was much macération carbonique in its making. 14°. 2015-16  Oct 2010

1997 ()

quite a dark robe with a top ruby rim. The nose is brewed, deep and warm, very Grenache with its plum fruit, has a little garrigue influence. The palate is immediately warm and round. This presents nice, quite full Grenache; the style is to drink early, but there is substance for the future. It is plump through to the end. Pleasurable wine where the Grenache juice is tasty. From 2001. 2009-10  April 1999

1996

quite dark; the bouquet has weight, settles around plum fruits, a sappy air to them, variety and style: this is a good quality bouquet. The attack is rounded, bears squeezy fruit, the length fair. Licorice and some tight tannins come along on the finish. Good parts to this that can assemble. More generous and better than many 1996s. From 2002. 2013-16  April 1999

1995

still quite dark, OK robe. Dark fruit and spicing show on the nose, that has a good centre – it is clean and decisive. There is initially clean extract of fruit on the palate, with mint leaf and tannin. This comes in the modern style, and has just enough content to contain its tannic advance. There is a risk of dryness here, the vintage and its drought in the bottle. It is quite long, so the best bet is to wait. From 2003.  2011-14  April 1999

1992

brick-plum robe – a clear sign of advance. The nose is brewed, shows coffee and mineral, has a slight air of the farmyard and also cedar that also denotes evolution. The palate still runs with a sweet, rather chocolatey nature, ending on a raisin, rather warm aspect, although there is thinness inside the finish. There are floral notes in this, a fine style in a wine with local warmth. 13°. To 2014. June 2010