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The Wines

50-60% Grenache (1950s), 30-40% Mourvèdre (1960s) from stony clay-limestone soils on La Crau, 10% Syrah (mid-1990s), 10% Cinsault (mid-1960s) from sandy soils on Valori, whole bunch concrete vat co-fermentation, part vat emptying/refilling, pumping overs, aged 4-7 year 228-litre oak casks 24 months, unfined, unfiltered, 12,000 b

2017

dark plum colour; the nose goes boom, produces an authentic, mixed prompts Châteauneuf bouquet, involving cedar, spices, black raisin, prune fruit. The fruit has ripeness, with lift, which is good. The palate has a savoury, nicely oily nature, is ripe and rolling, the tannins comfy, tasty. It captures the fine tuning of its place, with a wide second half that leads towards gorse wilderness, garrigue connotations. The finish shows a little of the dry reserve of the extended drought. It’s vivid, genuine, both nose and palate coming with a rugged, slightly parched quality. Its character lifts it to ****. 15.5°. From 2022, decant it. 2042-44 Feb 2020 Previously Oct 2018 ****(casks) dark red robe. The bouquet is fuelled with a broad, full dose of prune fruit, airs of roast beef, stock. It’s full, almost heady in style. The palate is wide, anchored around prolonged and deep kirsch style, cherry stone flavour and content. There’s a heart of very ripe Grenache. It gives a buzz of vigour as it goes, and the length is good. This wears its heart on its sleeve, goes for it. 15°. 15,000 b. From spring 2021. 2043-45 Oct 2018

2016 ()

dark robe; blackberry, hedgerow fruits parade along the bouquet, a note of cold tea, mineral, and blue fruit. It shows the cool tenor achieved in this mighty vintage. The palate is going along quietly, taking its time. It bears stylish black stone fruit content, the juice concentrated, with a drizzle of power on the second half, nothing untoward. There is much for the future here, and it will reward those who wait. The aftertaste has a discreet floral, aromatic presence, a graceful, calm addition. 15.5°. From 2025. 2048-50 Feb 2020 Previously Oct 2017 **** (casks) level red robe. The nose offers clear red fruits, with a note of oak varnish, plays the finesse card. There is a little couch of dried herbs, sweet herbs, underneath. The palate holds stylish red fruited content with a very good, precise plump heart. Its juice is admirably tasty. It rolls into an elegant, detailed close which summons some strength of degree and butty, rather solid tannins. 15.5° - which is just under control and integrated. From 2021. 2040-42 Oct 2017

2009

(casks) quite dark; has a nutty, oaked top air, but masses of red jelly aroma, a Grenache-led influence in the back. The bouquet is a big feature here – it runs up and down, and will travel across the glass in time. It is authentic thanks to its herbal, garrigue implications. Ingrained oak in the attack, which displays abundant persistence, is fleshy and bountiful, delivers silken moments before the finish. This is promising indeed, has a clear, stately finish. From 2015. 2033-36 July 2011

2008 ()

rather deep red; the nose has potential – shows a ripe sort of plum air, is not forward and more built on reticence, shows licorice and smoke. Floral scented start to the palate, with a mild coating of plum red fruit. Its tannins step in on cue, end it ends on a licorice, pebble cut. This needs 2+ years to arrange its assertive, grainy finish. From spring 2014. There is good potential for the nose to vary around 2017. The aftertaste may be a bit disorderly, but persists. 14.5°. 2025-27 July 2011

2007

dark robe; the nose has leathery, oak implications, is compact and tarry. Attractive palate that has more freedom than the bouquet – delivers a tight roll of fruit, ends securely, comes with a probing firmness. Very dark fruit, a good concentration here. A big and structured wine. Oak emerges on the finish. From 2013. 2029-31 June 2010

1999 ()

wide nose, even delivery of cooked red fruits. Nicely ripe rich palate, gras in it which persists. Solid constitution, to be bottled in 10 days. 2017-20 March 2000