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The Wines

95-100% 1902 Grenache, 0-1% Mourvèdre, 0-5% Syrah from Le Claux (yellow limestone-clay), whole bunch 3-4 week concrete vat vinification, pumping overs, aged 30% new, 40% 1-year, 30% 2-year old 228-litre oak casks 12 months, first wine 2006, unfined, unfiltered, biodynamic wine, 4,200-5,000 b

2018

(casks) quite a full red robe. The nose is broad, carries ripe Grenache intensity, spicing and notes of strawberry jam prominent. There is a helpful, interesting note of iron within. The palate generates strength from within, carries weighted, spiced red jam content with assertive tannins that lengthen it. It’s a manly Gigondas for the long haul, is showing a slight Grenache-oak clash for now - so the policy is to leave it until 2026, say. 95% Gren, 5% Syr. 30% new oak. €60 at cellars. 2043-45 Feb 2020  £297/6 b in bond The Wine Society +44(0)1438 741177 https://www.thewinesociety.com/openingoffer/Overview.aspx?offercode=wrh181

2017

(casks) sober dark robe, black-tinted core. The nose has a weighty aroma of Morello cherry fruit, gives the vintage fat, a liqueur styling. The palate sets off with aromatic soaked cherries, is ripe and fleshy, carries a cassis-blackberry fruiting. It’s close to liqueur wine. The tannins are ripe, largely enveloped. It ends on coal tar. It’s a child of the vintage; I wouldn’t want to drink much of it. Decanting a good idea. 95% Gren, 5% Syrah. From mid-2020. 2035-37 Oct 2018

2016 ()

(casks) dark red robe. The nose is marked by raspberry, mulberry fruits with a liqueur note, some crunchy dried herbs also. The palate expresses spiced Grenache, plum fruits, with cordite in the tannins, a rocky face from them. The finish is mixed swirl of red fruits, teasing menthol, thyme, cool strikes. The content has a fine quality, a discreet richness. The smoky, cool tenor on the finish is inviting. This hides its light under a bushel for now: it will become deftly nuanced with varied prompts, and a rather Burgundy meets Gigondas style. Marks for purity here. From 2021-22. 2039-41 Oct 2017

2015 ()

(casks) deep, dark red colour. The bouquet has a thick quality, as if the black berry fruit is almost jam-like. It’s thorough and deep, with a hover of oak above the fruit. It will be a big event in time. The palate has a deep-seated succulence and fleshy content, really goes long, with concentration all the way through. The oak is largely built into it. The finish has fluid gras richness, the tannins munchable, some spice coming along on the aftertaste. It’s a dark, full wine. From 2020 or so, no hurry. 2035-37 Feb 2017 GB £233 6 b i/bond The Wine Society www.thewinesociety.com/enprimeur +44(0)1438 741177

2014 ()

(casks) dark red robe. There are soaked red cherries, raspberry and plums, softly floral aromas on the rounded nose. The palate kicks off on a neat thrust of red , stone fruit; it is largely cool, has a touch of kirsch. The tannins surge forward and control the final stages. Enjoyable red fruit quality here. The finish is grainy, with ash-cut present. Has good length. From 2019: it is chiselled for now. 14.5°. 4,200 b. €39 at the cellars. 2032-35 GB £215/6 bots in bond The Wine Society +441438 740 222 www.thewinesociety.com Dec 2015 

2013 ()

(casks) dark purple hue. Modern, lifted, fragrant nose based on red fruits, spice and orange zest. The oak dominates at present but lovely fruit behind. The palate is fleshy and pure, the finish for now just a touch drying from the oak. A modern but successful take on Gigondas. 14°. From mid-2017. 2028-30 JL GB £223/6 bots in bond The Wine Society +441438 740 222 www.thewinesociety.com  Dec 2014

2012 ()

(casks) full dark robe, legs; basil touches, raspberry fruit with specks of oak tar, cocoa, a sweet prune richness, a brewed style. The palate offers lightly scented red cherry, red currant fruit with a snap given by its oaking. The length is sound, steady. It builds on the finish, a stealthy increase in assertion of its content, then a drier stretch. Pretty good style at base. Needs time. 14.5°. 4,500 b. From 2017. 2028-30  Dec 2013

2011

dark, sustained red; raspberry-blackberry fruit, a pretty fullness with no excess  on the nose; a scented sweetness runs across it. Its floral elegance is striking, its ripeness savoury and liqueur-like. The palate has an inky, rather profound but mobile debut – the fruit is stylish, until oak centres its forces in the final stages. Has the structure to live well, is serious, longer-term Gigondas. It has the breadth all through and the late depth that many lack this year. The finish is nicely complete, tidy, ripe. Promising wine. 14.5°. From 2016. 2029-31  Dec 2012

2010 ()

(casks) full, dark red. The nose is broad, shows reduction, has a highlight of mulled raspberry fruit, is closely packed, its top note breezy. The palate bears nutty, crunchy red Grenache fruit, with an implicit energy and a trail of full, grain-powder tannins. Very raw. This is fresh, and can be elegant. Its tannins need 4 years. Unformed – it has to vary and gain flesh around its chiselled spine. Elegant style of Gigondas. 14.5°. From 2016. 2033-35  Dec 2011

2009

red with dark tints. Smoky, full potential on the nose, which is deep, mysterious, shows classy elegance of fruit. The smoothly textured palate provides a full helping of black stone fruits that have been long simmered as it were, are thorough. Its tannins are mightily ripe and do a great job in lending understated, muscular support. The aftertaste brings in rosemary herbs, peony flowers. This fits its usual abundant profile, and is well-balanced. From 2014-15. 14.5°. 2030-32. July 2011

2008

(casks) fairly deep red. Resin notes on the front nose, also a burnt nature to it – the oak raising is the major imprint for now. The palate is similar – has a charry, toffee flavour that obscures its fruit. There is some gras in the texture, but green oak, and the raw coffee aftertaste shows what is running the show. From mid-2013, and hope some red fruit emerges as the oak quietens. 2019-21 Dec 2009

2007 ()

the robe is still very dark. Woe – the nose has a lovely rounded appeal, is sleek, glistening and expressive. There are airs of licorice, thyme, pepper – there is a real terroir speech in the glass. This is elegant, properly classy wine. It has floral, nice tubby features, is still very young, has grace and length, and channels into a direct run of dark fruit with menthol notes. Very good, very stylish. 14.5°. 2031-33  Ape 2015 Previously July 2011 **** bright, medium red. Expansive, squeezy red berry jam aroma with a plump centre and sweetness – it lingers OK. The palate also presents a sweet ball of Grenache plum fruit that is scented, has a perfumato theme through it. It is fat enough to absorb many of its tannins already. It is a tiny bit fruit-bomb like, but is aided by its florality. 14.5°. 2026-28  July 2011 Previously Dec 2009 **(*) full robe. Peppery, rather high tone aroma, earthy under air, hints of volatile. The palate is similar – brittle back fruit with a creep of volatile acidity, but that does not overrun the wine. Smoky, licorice aftertaste. This lacks genuine fullness, and a sour dimension comes in at the end. Black cherry aftertaste. Needs some patience and understanding. When revealed what it is (as usual, tasted blind), I am surprised, compared to the Nov 2008 cask sample. 2018-20 Dec 2009 Previously Nov 2008 ***** (casks) dark, bright robe; has a snappy, charcoal-black cherry nose – offers energy, young enthusiasm and freedom. It is an upbeat, solid bouquet – it holds good black fruit and a minor hint of smoke. The palate has a similar thread of life - the black fruit is poised, has a stylish pedigree. The tannins are helpful, add life and interest to it as it goes. The aftertaste mixes prune and sweet violet. Classy wine of good balance, persistence and length - a bonny do. From late 2010. 2022-24 Nov 2008

2006

dark red. The bouquet is interesting, is oily with a prune-tobacco, camphor angle, is good and provocative. Big time freshness features here – it shows a flavour of cooked fig. This is a smooth intensity wine, a real gradual gainer, a classy do. “It leans towards Barolo, comes from our limestone marl soils – you get that style,” Louis Barruol. Highly enjoyable. Will keep ticking over very well over time. 14.5°. 2027-29  Dec 2013  Previously Jan 2008 **** quite a dark red plum robe. The nose is promising – mint, eucalyptus surround it, while there is plenty of pepper and an oak lining. The palate holds coffee-infused black fruit with good stretch on it – it reaches out and performs down the race track. Its richness is measured. It ends clearly, the length is pretty good. From mid-2010. 2022-24 Jan 2008