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The Wines

95-100% Grenache (1963), 0-5% Syrah, 0-1% Mourvèdre from 1 hectare on Le Poste, beside the Chapelle de Saint Cosme (limestone-marl), whole bunch 3-4 week vinification, pumping overs, aged 33% each new, 1-2 year old 228-litre oak casks 12 months (before early 2010s aged 50% new, 50% 1-year old 228-litre oak casks 12 months), first wine 2006, unfined, unfiltered, biodynamic wine, 1,200-1,600 b

2018 ()

(casks) dark red robe; the nose is stylish, leads on refined raspberry liqueur, prune, black stone fruit, and transfers that tenor to the palate, where there is a steady run of sweet-noted, aromatic content, the richness well established. The Grenache is spiced and ample, carries a little oaking. The aftertaste shows a neat little coolness. This has pockets of mystery, will do well. 100% Grenache. €60 at cellars. From 2024, decant it. 2042-44 Feb 2020

2017 ()

(casks) dark red colour. The bouquet mixes red berries with garrigue herbs, a sense of dusty trails. It’s a sturdy start. The palate is wide, brimming, holds high octane charge, with rocky tannins and their chalk cut in tow. This is raw, but martials good energy, and has the potential to fuse, bearing the thread of cool, menthol tones that are associated with Gigondas. This has character. The oaking needs to relax. 100% Grenache. From mid-2021. 2039-41 Oct 2018

2016 ()

(casks) full red colour. An air of mulled, simmering red berries, griottes or soaked red cherries, leads the bouquet with a discreet backdrop of rosemary and oak-charcoal. The palate gives a restrained richness of Grenache fruit, oak alongside. It’s a fresh wine, with mineral detail present. The extended aftertaste is on a crunched texture for now, which suggests the inclusion of stems (tasted blind). This will live well, and take its time. I would suggest leaving it until 2022 at least. There is concentration in the cautious amount of red juice that it releases now, a firm thickness, with oaking. 2039-42 Oct 2017

2014

(casks) red robe, some shine. Oaked, nutted, caramel influenced first aroma here: has an air of plump plum and strawberry at its centre. The palate is softly fruited with fluid, wavy fruit and tannins that build from within. The aftertaste is fresh, carries a note of menthol, fine acidity, then oak. This will edge forward gradually, is manly overall. From 2020: it will be very good and singing around 2023. 14.5°. 1,600 b. €39 at the cellars. 2031-33  Dec 2015 

2013 ()

quite a dark red colour; the nose has a pine-varnish outer air, in thrall to its oaked raising still. Within there is a nugget of cassis fruit that will gain ground, and a smoky, rocky note. The palate flows stylishly, offering scented plum fruit, with a coconut take as it nears the finish, which is grainy, oaked. There is a spot of dark intensity on the aftertaste, which is long and persistent. This needs leaving until late 2017, presents a pretty raw case for now. Can make a slow fusion, and up the ante on its gras richness. 14.5°. From 2020 will be stylish. 2031-34  April 2015 

2012 ()

(casks, bottling April 2014) handsome, full robe. Square, chunky, broad nose – oak mixed in with an oxtail depth, a note of cocoa, soaked cherries – this is potentially a bold bouquet. This has plenty of heart, vigour and a delightful centre of oily, berry fruit. Oak weaves through it. The freshness of 2012 sustains through the palate, which is long, and refined as it ends. Interesting wine, especially once the oak lessens, drops its sweet toffee mask that comes from that. From 2019. 14.5°. 33% new oak, 1,500 b. 2030-32  Dec 2013

2011 ()

(casks, bottling Feb 2013) dark red. There is a baked air to the nose, which gives an image of dry grapes with red juice trickling out of them. Oaking runs across the glass, and there are agreeable traces of rose. The palate has a tenacious, interesting flavour, mixing its oak/caramel with floral, violet sweet fruiting and spice seasoning. This is a potentially well-varied wine that has a quite pedigree behind it. Oak and some gasp of power appear on the aftertaste now. The fruit is bonny; charm and grace are to come. From 2016. 14.5°. €30 at the cellars. 1,500 b this year.  2028-30  Dec 2012

2010

(casks) mild Grenache red robe. Minor reduction shows in the bouquet, which is baked, yeasty, of the earth, with Grenache plum, pronounced and chiselled fruit, plus marked oriental spices. The palate has a direct, flinty start. It gives rubbed, warm stones with a wiry insistence in its red fruit, and evolves towards strawberry, a spot of roundness. Burgundian Gigondas that requires patience. The aftertaste is nice and clear. A take your time wine. From 2016. 14.5°. 2034-37  Dec 2011

2009 ()

70% Grenache with 30% Syrah this year due to hail on the Grenache: full red robe. Charcoal, snappy nose which has lots of content – it is nutty, oily, shows black fruits. The palate is raw, pushy, has scale and a throb of oaked power in it. The fruit is clear. There is savoury mid-palate richness and then a smoky aftertaste. From 2014. 2027-29 March 2011

2008 ()

quiet red Grenache colour; sweet fruit aroma – red jam – that lingers, is deep, and also smoky. Its heart is intense, and also discreetly mineral. The palate is tasty – has a red berry, plum flavour which is round, and gradually extends into a more direct line, with crisp tannins attached. It is fine in style, a deft wine. The length brings in rubbed stones, and notions of the garrigue, and a light licorice feel – the finish is nice and complete. It shows the fresh vein of 2008, is typical of Gigondas, an STGT wine. From 2013. 14.5°. 2027-29 July 2011

2007

full red robe, black traces. Rather funky, reductive nose that obscures its black fruit, violet lies within, but there is a sweaty angle here. The palate gives black fruit that is stretched, with live, crisp tannins taking charge after half way. The fruit is a bit nervous, is not really confidently set inside. The fruit could be both fresher and purer – looking back to Nov 2008, this tallies with the impression given then. The fruit, the fruit, my kingdom for the fruit – veneer or reality?? Try from 2012. 14.5° 2019-21 Dec 2009 Previously Nov 2008 *** (casks) dark robe that is not bright. There is menthol and also eucalyptus in the black fruit aroma – it has a sweet couch, is supple almost boudoir, and over-pliant. The palate has a soaked red fruits start, moves all in a circle, is a sappy style of wine. It ends on a little tannic tautness. It is not that organised yet, and I am suspicious that its fruit may turn our rather flat – it is “high” in style and there is a suggestion of eau de vie. Its red fruit is scented and pretty, very Grenache in style (tasted blind). Not together now. Retaste after bottling. 2019-21 Nov 2008

2006 ()

swirling dark red robe. The bouquet expresses cloves and Havana cigar, a spicy cocktail above its deep red fruit. There are also oak and pine notes, a typically cool Gigondas angle, along with basil, a prune filling and a style of gummy, lozenge style fruit. This is tasty, drinks with great pleasure, expresses some eucalyptus, and a very good, racy freshness. It is spreading out well on the palate, is very agreeable. I like its profile of constant gain over time. 2024-26  Dec 2013 Previously Nov 2008 *** low key dark plum robe. Scented, “high” fruit aroma – reminds me of the violet Pez sweets, also a little damp forest. The palate also carries a scented, floral side, the texture smooth. Ripe, slightly boudoir style, but gains some needed tannic bite and edge on the final stage – a fresh, rather oaked moment there. This is proceeding carefully, no fireworks, making its way. 2017-19 Nov 2008 Previously Jan 2008 ***(*) matt red colour; the bouquet has a scented and floral top, with a few burnt, tar notes present – there are black fruits, while its oak adds width to it. It has a chunky, oaked palate, with the flavour bringing in raisin and chocolate and cocoa from the oak. A wine of scale, but its power is not overwhelming or too alcoholic. The oak demands it be left for 2 to 3 years – that is what is shaping the wine for now. 2021-23 Jan 2008