LVT 2015 r 2015 wh 2015 rosé Started to vinify their purchased crop in 1980, a rare early example of what is now an accepted practice. Also work closely with Domaine Grosset at Cairanne, and own Domaine Barville at Châteauneuf-du-Pape and Château de Bord at Laudun. From 2012 and 2015, the Domaine Barville red has varied between ***(*) and ****
LVT 2015 r A joint venture between the Grangeon family of Domaine de Cristia and their USA importer Peter Weygandt. There are two plots each of 1.7 hectares on adjoining sites on the sandy soils of Courthézon, which were bought in 2009. Le Grand Pin (as in Pignan) is a little higher than Guigasse, and the vines are younger. The wines are made in genuine hands-off fashion, and evoke the 1960s of laissez-faire winemaking, before the 100 point brigade rode into town. The Grand Pin was an exciting ****** wine in 2015.
LVT 2015 r 2015 wh 2015 rosé Sound, maybe mainstream, but prices are reasonable. The Côtes du Rhône Grande Réserve white is a steady wine, usually around ***, the red similar
LVT 2015 r 2014 wh Correct Tradition red - a savoury **** in 2015; the Prestige is a better wine, hence the Trad is a less good wine. C'est simple. Very ripe crop use is emphasized. Son Arnaud, born 1990, has been working on the domaine since 2012 – in the vineyards and the cellar, while daughter Astrid, born 1995, has been working on the commercial side since 2015.
LVT 2012 r The owner of the Domaine de la Charité that makes sound Côtes du Rhône in the Gard, right bank, vineyards. His first steps into Châteauneuf-du-Pape here. Oaking a-plenty.
LVT 2015 r 2015 wh Top class, across many wines, too. The Vieilles Vignes white is an admirably stylish, intriguing white, with the 2014 **** and promising much future complexity. The red Beaucastels can be plump and accessible, as in 2014, or more slow burn, as in 2013. The content is more fleshy and redondo than it used to be in the 1990s-2000s. Even the Famille Perrin Vieille Ferme wines have taken a move forward in 2014-2015 after a bit of a dip (see Famille Perrin entry).
LVT 2013 r 2014 wh Finely styled wines from N-E of appellation, near Courthézon
LVT (Last Vintage Tasted) 2015 r 2014 wh Leading name, modern style. The Brunels also own the modern fruited Château Saint-Roch at Lirac, and since 2007, a range of merchant wines called Brunel de la Gardine - very sound Côtes du Rhône red. There is a sound Rasteau red. The classic Châteauneuf white is consistently excellent, very enjoyable, a wine of elegance. There is now a Rasteau red as well - ***(*) in 2014 and **** in 2015.
LVT 2015 r 2015 wh Sleekly styled wines from a very old estate. The special Val de Dieu red was a genuine, muscular, **** wine in 2015. Also own Domaine des Bosquets at Gigondas and Domaine de la Jerome Côtes du Rhône Villages.
LVT 2015 r 2015 wh 2011 rosé Good, supple fruit these days in the reds, wines of stature. The classic Châteauneuf red was **** in 2015, a wine of true virtues. The family also own Château du Bois de la Garde nearby, which provides very sound, consistent Côtes du Rhône and Villages wines.
LVT 2013 r Champions of whole bunch fermentation, followed by 3 or 4 years of vat raising. Popular in Scandinavia. Mature style wines. The 2012 and 2013 Très Vieilles Vignes Cuvée Prestige red were both marvellous - really true, the 2013 STGT, both wines ****(*)
LVT 2015 r 2015 wh Has moved to much earlier bottling. Straightforward wines with plenty of drive. The Vieux Chemin is full and authentic red. The Château Fargueirol red was a juicy, genuine **** wine in 2015, while the old vine 100% Grenache Cuvée Antonin red was a vigorous, fresh ****(*) wine
LVT 2015 r 2015 wh More and more use of Syrah, and the Counoise has been thrown out after soil studies said it was not best suited . . The 80% Syrah Châteauneuf-du-Pape Réserve red, occasionally made, was ****(*) wine in 2010 and 2015, the latter STGT also.
LVT 2015 r 2015 wh 2011 rosé Progress here with the Châteauneuf-du-Pape, but also other wines: witness the excellent 2015 Côtes du Rhône Bois des Moines red, made from old vines, half Grenache (1952), half Mourvèdre, a ****(*) wine
LVT 2014 wh 2014 r Since 2008, a 10 hectare estate. Having been in the Lubéron since the the late 1980s, the owners subsequently separated. Fair quality wines from sandy soils. The Saintes Vierges white is pretty successful, can be a **** wine.
LVT 2015 r 2015 wh This was separated from Château des Fines Roches in 2005 – it is in the same ownership. Before 2005, its wine went into the Château des Fines Roches wine, although a little of its own wine was issued in 2003.
LVT 2015 r 2015 wh Modern, sleek wines, have lost some of their character recently. Long-time organic domaine, one of the largest and oldest. The white is elegant.
LVT 2014 r 2014 wh 2011 rosé The wines are more smoothly fruited than in the past,; an estate on the up after enjoying wide renown in the 1950s-1960s
LVT 2014 wh 2014 r Organic from 2012. The laboratory for local growers, and the wine school for budding winemakers and viticulteurs from all over France. Based in the north area of Châteauneuf-du-Pape on the way to Orange. It is now certified organic. I find progress since around 2010, both red and white - the latter unusually made from 100% Clairette rose.
LVT 2015 r Robust style, genuine.
LVT 2015 r 2015 wh 2012 rosé Take your time wines that fuse and blossom very slowly. Also have Lirac and Côtes du Rhône, the former pretty good, the latter's red rather functional, the white stylish. There is a growing amount of a branded Côtes du Rhône Abeille-Fabre Réserve Mont-Redon red, which was a fresh ***(*) wine in 2015
LVT 2014 r 2014 wh Grandiose
LVT 2014 r Also make a punchy Plan de Dieu. Christian is the son of the legendary Gabriel Meffre of Gigondas.
LVT 2015 r 2015 wh 2012 rosé Now organic and biodynamic. I note progress with the 2011 and 2014 (white Châteauneuf-du-Pape) and the red Massif d'Uchaux Jocundaz in 2011, 2012, 2015 - the 2015 a **** w.o.w. wine). There has been shorter raising on the red Châteauneuf-du-Pape, now called Le Traversier, since 2011; the 2015 was a good hearted **** wine
LVT 2015 r 2015 wh Modern, progressive, doing well. The Châteauneuf Château Sixtine red is very good - the 2015 was an extremely long, STGT ***** wine, while the Tradition level wine, Cuvée du Vatican red was also STGT in 2015, a **** wine. The white 100% Roussanne is well adapted to traditional, sauced cuisine; the 2015 was a **** wine.
LVT 2015 r 2015 wh Owned by Ogier these days, reviving, sound+ wines. The quality for both the red and the white ranges between *** and ****, with the red Clos de l'Oratoire a ****(*) wine of quiet inner complexity in 2015
LVT 2015 r Good, local style, authentic wines
LVT 2015 r 2015 wh Gold standard estate, joy to taste only one red, one white, so good blending is crucial. The yields are always very low – not much more than 20 hl/ha, which serves to concentrate the red wine, and there is an above average emphasis on the Mourvèdre, all planted in clay soils. The blend is usually 65% Grenache, 20% Mourvèdre, 10% Syrah, 5% various including white grapes. The 2014 red was utterly charming, a real en finesse ****(*) beauty, while the 2015 is logically a bolder, more demanding ***** wine, requiring patience. The whites drink well in their first couple of years, then back off, close down, and emerge as more complex, stimulating wines around seven years' old; they live well and deserve a top table accompaniment.
LVT 1994 r Traditional domaine
LVT 2015 r 2015 wh A staple, mainstay domaine at Châteauneuf. The wines reflect the best characteristics of the Grenache. They would be considered by some as traditional, with a long cask and large barrel ageing meaning they rarely carry vivacious fruit. The wines live a very long time, and in vintages such as 1961, 1978 and 1990 are wonderful examples of core Châteauneuf, with STGT qualities. The special Papet Châteauneuf red is often a marvellous wine - ****(*) in 2015, ***** in 2005, 2007, 2010 and 2012, ****** in 1990. The Côtes du Rhône reds are full of character and come from old vines near Bollène - their success in the tricky 2014 vintage is testament to the quality of the vineyards and the domaine.
LVT 2015 r 2015 wh Always a domaine that delivers full wines with genuine character. Since 2003, the wine style has been markedly changed at this previously traditional estate. The grapes are picked later and more fully ripe than before. Fruit bomb syndrome hovers like a Flying Cigar. Destemming and more cellar work during vinification has been undertaken. Vatting time without the stalks has risen from 25 days to 35-38 days. The aim has been to soften the wines and allow earlier drinking.
The Tradition remains generally well-filled, and is the most accessible of the three reds. Of the two Prestige wines, the Combe des Fous is more local and opens earlier than the Deus ex Machina, which is robust, smoky wine supported by 40% Mourvèdre; both were **** wines in 2015. All the wines here benefit from being drunk from four to five years on – they are thorough and need time. A frisky vin de pays red and a solid white Châteauneuf (the 2015 a **** STGT wine), with a red Côtes du Rhône that is mostly sold the Netherlands complete the picture. The quantity bottled on the Tradition cuvée has risen from 37,000 in 2005 to 100,000 in the 2007 vintage. The rest of the wine is sold in bulk.
LVT 2015 r 2016 wh A domaine with a long history, and a notably high profile, much visited by Parisians and le beau monde in the 1930s. The first vinification on the spot in a new cellar was in 2014; rented vats were used before. The first vintage under the Perveyries was 2010 in red, and 2014 in white. Carole is an Arnaud of the Domaine des Cabrières and Château de Maucoil in the past, and their eight hectares had latterly been within Maucoil. The main lieux-dits are Palestor and Bois de la Ville. The wines have been organic since 2012. The vin de pays crop – one-third each Caladoc, Marselan and Syrah, planted in 2013 for an amusing red - is sold to merchants, as is most of the Châteauneuf - only 4,000 bottles of the Urbi red are made. Both the 2013 and 2015 Urbi were **** wines.
LVT 2015 r rosé 2015 wh Modern approach, accessible wines from the draining soils of the South-East of the appellation towards Sorgues. The Châteauneuf white has been very good from 2012 to 2014.
LVT 2014 r 2014 wh Traditional approach: the red wines are full-bodied, clear and genuine, with improvement noted on the ****(*) 2012, the STGT **** 2013, and **** 2014 reds. The 2014 white was **** after a halting, lightweight start.
LVT 2015 r 2015 wh Albin's mother is an Arnaud of Château Cabrières. He has received his own vineyards from that estate after his mother`s divorce settlement. The Domaine La Bégude des Papes is the original chunk of that - 10 ha - but more vineyards are to come, and the name will be Domaine Albin Jacumin henceforth. His cellar was built in 2007. The red is shapely; the 2015 captured the vintage well - it was muscular, and well-defined, a ****(*) wine. The white ripe but also fresh.
LVT 2015 r 2015 wh 2011 rosé Very good address, often STGT wines, too. Fair pricing.
LVT 2015 r 2015 wh Owned by the Brotte family, with its wine previously part of Clos de l'Oratoire des Papes
LVT 2011 r 2008 wh Organic domaine, ex Co-operateur, promise
LVT 2013 r Daughter of the Berthet Rayne family, promising start
LVT 2015 r 2015 wh 2011 rosé Officially organic since the 2007 vintage. Fair prices, fair quality. Have an association with the golfer Nick Faldo for one of the six wines in his "collection", a Châteauneuf-du-Pape red. A new 100% Grenache Châteauneuf-du-Pape red was introduced in 2015, Elixir des Papes, steel vat raised, bottled early, in June following the harvest. The 2015 was an engaging and deep ****(*) wine.
LVT 2015 r 2013 wh Really good, reliable, traditional Châteauneuf-du-Pape, both red and white. Good value, as well.
LVT 2015 r 2015 wh 2010 rosé The Tradition red is good value, and STGT. The 2015 Châteauneuf-du-Pape white was a **** STGT wine, too, a relief after some lighter recent vintages. The other red wines are smoothly Grenache-dominated; the 2015 Gloire de Grand-Père was a good ****(*) wine when tasted pre-bottling. The occasional and expensive Châteauneuf La Folie seems to be slightly surplus to requirements in vintages such as 2015. There is a a good Côtes du Rhône red.
LVT 2005 r A domaine that was sold in 2014, the vineyards split between neighbours at Châteauneuf-du-Pape. Has been a northern sector domaine finding its way, some STGT tendencies. Converted to organic production in 2009. Jean-Paul Bouvachon was a restaurateur in Normandy, bought the domaine in 1988
LVT 2012 r 2013 wh Really well-made, genuine wines from a promising young vigneron. The white is well worth a look, is traditional and well made.
LVT 2015 r 2015 wh Underestimated quality, STGT southern zone truth. More Syrah, less Grenache recently. The wines can be fully charged, coming as they do from the precocious south-eastern sector. An unusually high 10% Muscardin can serve to keep the lid on the power of the red wine, which was **** in 2015. The white gives good, traditional virtues, based on 60-70% Grenache blanc, and 10-20% Clairette.
LVT 2015 r Excellent STGT source. Vat only raising, no oak. A good, long-lived Côtes du Rhône red as well. From 2015 there has been a white Côtes du Rhône, and from 2016 a little over 1,000 bottles of Châteauneuf-du-Pape white, composed of 80% Clairette rose dating from the 1950s.
LVT 2015 r 2015 wh 5 hectares were sold to Jean Bonnet in 2006, with previous owner Olivier Hillaire setting himself up on his own under the name Domaine Olivier Hillaire. The red notes refer to wines tasted pre-sale. It is now owned by Philippe Kessler of Château Calissanne, with a bit under 10 hectares
LVT 2014 r 2015 wh 2011 rosé The whites have become elegant since the 2000s, while the reds are a bit uneven.
LVT 2012 wh 2004 r One of the famous 19th century names, in the southern area. Only a little is bottled these days, although the younger generation of Monsieur Bouche's daughter may change that
LVT 2015 r 2014 wh 2011 rosé Very good domaine, highly reliable. It is biodynamic. There is sleek fruit, very consistent quality, year in, year out. The special red Boisrenard is overtly oaked, so allow plenty of time; the 2015 was a ****(*) wine. Good Rasteau reds.
LVT 2015 r Have recently started to bottle more of their Châteauneuf-du-Pape and their two Côtes du Rhône reds, one 100% Grenache called Bastien, the other Syrah, called Vincent - Bastien was ***(*), as was Vincent in 2015. The soils are worked.
LVT 2015 r 2014 wh Polished, robust wines, improving over time, with finesse coming through in both 2014 and 2015, when the Tradition red was a ****(*) genuine wine. It is now biodynamic. Since 2009 there has been the joint venture with Peter Weygandt, their American importer, working with 3.4 hectares on the sandy soils of Courthézon, the title Chapelle St Théodoric, the wines extremely good and made in a laissez faire manner
LVT 2015 r A name of real note, and STGT qualities. Northern sector of Châteauneuf-du-Pape. The Côtes du Rhône Vieilles Vignes red is a robust wine, good punch in it, can also be STGT.
LVT 2015 r 2015 wh 2015 rosé Also make a Gigondas, Vacqueyras and sound Muscat de Beaumes-de-Venise. Converted to organic in 2011. The newly introduced red Châteauneuf-du-Pape Prestige wine called Trilogies was a ****(*) wine in 2015 - long, stylish and structured. The whites have always been good, and the 2015 Châteauneuf-du-Pape white was an authentic, potentially charming ****(*) wine. The Vacqueyras impressed me in 2012 and 2014, as did the Côtes du Rhône Les Vignes de mon Père red - ***(*) - white - ***(*) - and rosé - **** - in 2015.
LVT 2014 r 2011 wh Gérard Bouyer created this northern sector domaine in 1984, and changed the old farm into a vineyard-only enterprise, growing it from 10 to 23 hectares. He retired in 2009, when his daughter Christelle took over with her husband Jérôme Grieco, who left his job as a motorway/autoroute patrolman at 34 to make wine – he is self-taught. Christelle, a cousin of Daniel Chaussy at Mas de Boislauzon, has accountancy training and has worked full-time at the domaine since 2011. Their first wine was 2009. No weedkillers used. SO2 used just before bottling, 16 mg, for example. The wines hold good fruit, and are blessed by clarity, with none of the souped up sweetness so prevalent these days. Good Villages as well. An enlarged cellar from 2013 has allowed raising to double in time from 9 to 18 months. By 2015 bulk sales had been reduced to 20% in favour of bottling at the domaine. Delas buy some of the bulk wine.
LVT 2015 r 2015 wh Stylish, accomplished wines. The white has become extremely elegant. The reds can pack a punch. The classic red Châteauneuf-du-Pape is bottled within a year these days, and is a lighter, busier and earlier wine than the main cuvées; it was STGT in 2014. The Vacqueyras vineyard was increased by 1.5 hectares to 5.83 hectares in 2014. Both the 2014 and 2015 white Châteauneuf-du-Pape were ****(*) wines
LVT 2014 r 2014 wh One of the steady quality domaines, year in, year out. Racy, sometimes exerted wines, but they come well recommended.
LVT 2015 r 2011 rosé 2015 wh Top class estate, deep wines, prices now rather high. The Châteauneuf reds beyond the Tradition are punchy, can be glamorous, can be powerful. The Côtes du Rhône reds are full of character, from classic garrigue soils and mature vines. In 2015 the family bought a Côtes du Rhône domaine at Jonquières, the Clos Saint Antonin; this produces Côtes du Rhône and Plan de Dieu Villages reds.
LVT 2014 r 2014 wh Good Flor de Ronce Prestige wine, some way ahead of the Tradition red. The 2014 white was very good, a wine of character. Organic wines here.
LVT 2014 r 2015 wh Polished fruit, good value Tradition. Rather high octane special wines. Sound, traditional white. A good, easy drinking merchant Côtes du Rhône red has appeared after the sale of their vineyard in the Gard, on the right bank. Florent (pictured) now makes the wine
LVT 2015 r 2015 wh Important changes, for the better, from 2010: Jean-Paul Daumen has gone for vineyard-specific wines, issuing two new name Châteauneuf-du-Pape reds, Les Trois Sources, named after three streams that feed the domaine, and Les Hauts-lieux. The former represents the four lowest terraces of his north facing hill, the latter the three highest terraces. There is greater definition and clearer texture in both wines than his previous reds. I have found over-extraction in the past, especially arounf the late 1990s, and J-P admits to this. Vineyards, both for Châteauneuf and the excellent Clavin Côtes du Rhône red and white, are mature, with lots of old Grenache.
LVT 2012 r First wine in 2000; Nathalie Fabre is sister of Daniel Chaussy of Mad de Boislauzon. Finding their way.
LVT 2015 r 2015 wh The Vieilles Vignes is one of the great Châteauneuf-du-Papes. It is wisely omitted in tricky vintages such as 2014 - which benefits the classic red. A long-standing biodynamic domaine. New cooling system from 2009 a help, too. The white wine is improving, has a very consistent, en finesse style. The 2015 white was a marvellous, poised ****(*) wine - great to achieve elegance in that warm to hot vintage, while the Châteauneuf-du-Pape red was ****(*) STGT wine, and the Vieilles Vignes a lovely finesse ***** wine.
LVT 2015 r 2015 wh Modern approach, successfully done. For long time was a white wine leader - back in the 1970s, for instance. The red cuvées are starting to multiply, with lots of 1,600 to 4,000 bottles which are highly priced and rather confusing for the domaine's ID in the mind of the average consumer. 75% is bottled, 25% is sold in bulk. The 2015 Eicelnci white was an STGT ****(*) wine.
LVT 2015 r The Prestige red is a consistent quality wine
LVT 2014 r 2014 wh Gentle progress, motivated young owner
LVT 2010 r Traditional wines
LVT 2015 r 2015 wh Good, traditional, northern sector, organic domaine. Son Cyril is moving towards crisper fruit
LVT 2015 r 2014 wh 2015 rosé Same ownership as Domaine du Grand Tinel, solid quality. Very good organic Côtes du Rhône rosé in 2015.
LVT 2015 r This is the split off of the old Domaine Mathieu, under brother Jérôme, who works with 7.5 hectares of Châteauneuf-du-Pape and two hectares of Côtes du Rhône.
LVT 2015 r Biodynamic. Philippe de Blicquy, who revitalised this ordinary domaine, and converted it to organic practices, moved on to running a wine merchant and olive oil business in 2005. The son of Patrick Wallut, de Blicquy's partner in the domaine, now runs the estate - Stan Wallut. The Châteauneuf is not always truly stable, in the mould of some Nature Child wines, and the 2012 was bottled in July 2013, 10 months sooner than in the past. A good new Côtes du Rhône, La Griffe, was introduced in 2009.
LVT 2015 r 2015 wh The Cellier family part of the Domaine Saint-Benoit. Marc Cellier retired in August 2007, and his three sons took it over and are doing their own thing. They are very motivated. Sound early signals. The eldest, Ludovic, has been at the domaine since 1999. There are now two whites, the 100% Roussanne L'insolente (**** in 2015) and a recent Alchimie: both were good in 2014.
LVT 2010 r Laure Mousset is part of the Château des Fines Roches family. A 100% Grenache wine.
LVT 2015 r 2015 wh Modest quality; frustrating, some wines can be good.
LVT 2015 r 2015 wh Quality is rising. The classic Châteauneuf-du-Pape is down the line, a touch wild, but it is cheap. There is a good, thorough 2014 white.
LVT 2012 r Laurent is an ex-Co-operateur from the Cellier des Princes. The 2012 Châteauneuf-du-Pape red is commendably manly.
LVT 2015 r 2015 wh Note the improving white, which was a nicely muscular **** wine in 2015. Sandy soils, all Grenache, fleshy style Châteauneuf red.
LVT 2015 r 2015 wh Despite the opposition of local groups, this Château, owned by the Roux family, fell into outside hands in January 2007. Shock, horror! Actually, the outside hands are very well qualified – the Cazes family of Bordeaux, owners of Ch Lynch-Bages and Les Ormes de Pez. Sénéchaux has been delivering better wines since around 2000 – safe and fleshy Grenache at their heart, and the winemaking has been tidier. The location is a good one, and this domaine now regularly provides elegantly fruited wines, with soft tannins. The Châteauneuf-du-Pape white is enjoyable - it was an STGT **** wine in 2014, and a w.o.w. **** wine in 2015.
LVT 2011 r Highly traditional domaine with a prominent USA following. Wines of character, whole bunch fermentation with all red and white varieties allowed present in the co-fermented blend. Lovely 2011.
LVT 2015 wh Organic domaine, recent start up. This is the domaine that has arisen from the old Domaine du Vieux Calcernier – an estate mentioned in the Châteauneuf archives of the nineteenth century, with vineyards close to the village, mainly in the southern zone. One brother, Christophe de Courten, handles this estate, the other, William, is also going along his own path now. There are 4,000 bottles of the Châteauneuf-du-Pape Tradition red, which was a ***(*) wine in 2015. And 1,500 bottles of the Cuvée Spéciale, also ***(*) in 2015. Both wines are raised in new oak casks, and bottled within one year of the harvest.
LVT 2010 r 2006 wh
LVT 2015 r 2015 wh Traditional qualities, with a new oenologue since 2006, bringing changes in the raising of the wines. The Alexis Establet is an unsung hero: **** in 2015, while the occasional red Hérès was a ****(*) wine, holding the essence of the south, in 2015. Good quality Côtes du Rhône red and white also
LVT 2015 wh 2015 r A mix of finely fruited and some big, obvious wines as well - the latter selling for very high prices. The white Châteauneuf 2014 and 2015 were both extremely good at *****, the former STGT - much better than other recent vintages, while a new white, the A Tempo, is also a good addition. The merchant wines Sélection Laurence Féraud are a useful collection, while Laurence also has a joint-venture with André Brunel of Les Cailloux - also good.
LVT 2015 r 2015 wh Modern style wines, fresh whites. The Elisabeth Chambellan old vines red is tuneful and accomplised, good value, too; the 2015 was a ***(*) wine
LVT 2015 r 2015 wh Modernist, get on and go estate, run by one of the High Profile figures of Châteauneuf-du-Pape. The Ventoux red is authentic, from the commune of Caromb, near Beaumes-de-Venise.
LVT 2015 r 2015 wh Top end Châteauneuf-du-Pape, longstanding quality. The whites are rich - the Châteauneuf La Crau 2015 blanc being a true southern imprint ****(*) wine, for example. The vin de pays Le Pigeoulet red gives great drinking, and, since 2011, there has been a full red Ventoux, Mégaphone. The Bruniers also own Domaine La Roquète at Châteauneuf, Domaine Les Pallières at Gigondas (with Kermit Lynch) and have interests in Lebanon, at the Massaya vineyard. Since the 2010 vintage, La Roquète has been dropped as a named source of red wine, its 25.5 hectares of fruit now going into the second estate wine, Télégramme, and a new Vieux Télégraphe cuvée, Piedlong et Pignan, which is most refined. One white, Clos La Roquète blanc, continues to be made from a 3 hectare plot.
LVT 2010 r Longer raising than Vieux Lazaret, which is in the same stable, and one-sixth of the latter`s production. Good, consistent quality, with the 30% non-Grenache vines adding interest.
LVT 2014 wh 2015 r 33% bottled, rest sold in bulk to mainly Rhône merchants. Very clear wines, with weight attached. Son Vincent has been waking up the quality, and now works with his younger brother François. He looks after the vineyards and the vinification. In 2012 he married Emilie Boisson, of Domaine du Père Caboche. His brother François (33 in Oct 2016) covers commerce, with some attention on matters in the cellar as well. The Châteauneuf-du-Pape vineyard area was given an enormous boost in 2009 when 16 hectares were added, much of it on the N-W site of Farguerol, from the boys’ aunt Geneviève Avril, wine which before had been sold in bulk. That took the overall surface to 36.5 hectares.
The 2015 Châteauneuf-du-Pape reds were on form - the Tradition ****, l'eperdu a suavely rich **** also, and the Lucile Avril a concentrated, grounded ****(*) wine. The white Côtes du Rhône is a rare example of a largely Grenache gris wine. There are 60 hectares of Plan de Dieu, 7 hectares of Ventoux also.
LVT 2011 r Recent start-up
LVT 2015 r 2014 wh 2011 rosé Good name in the east of the appellation, both reds and whites. The red Etienne Gonnet, from old vines, has always been a truly stylish wine. The 2015 Châteauneuf Elegance de Jeanne red was a **** STGT wine. There is also an interesting range of small lot merchant wines under the Gonnet Rhône Sélection title, such as the Ventoux.
LVT 2011 r 2010 wh Recent wines can be wild, outlandish, compelling from the wrong side of the tracks, some very sweet
LVT 2015 r 2015 wh Polished reds, supple fruit, can be powerful. The 100% old vine Grenache Les Gallimardes was a complex, long ***** wine in 2015, while the 2015 white was ****, a solid wine for la table, as it usually is
LVT 2014 r 2014 wh The Giulianis left the Cave Cellier des Princes of Courthézon after the 2005 vintage. Bernard is the third generation to work vineyards, and the first to vinify. A new cellar was built in 2007. Raising of the Châteauneuf has moved from steel to barrels, with half sold in bottle. The style is for easy going wines. Their son Florian, joined the domaine in 2014, aged 22 years. After a bts in Avignon, he worked for a year on an estate in New South Wales, Australia.
LVT 2015 r 2.5 hectare domaine owned by Isabel Ferrando-Giraud, the owner of Domaine Saint-Préfert. The first wine was made in 2004. Pure Grenache, always smoothly fruited, modern in style.
LVT 2015 r 2011 wh The regular wine strikes me as robbed by the increasing number of Prestige wines, the best of which is indeed the Cuvée Prestige. Upward quality trend here.
LVT 2014 r Small domaine, working at improving. Whole bunch fermentation, oak influences.
LVT 2015 r 2015 wh The Masquin family have a well-known brush (as in broom) factory at Courthézon. Julien's grandfather Paul Masquin was one of the founders of the Cellier des Princes Co-operative at Courthézon. Julien took over 10 of the family's 25 hectares in 1998, and the remaining 15 hectares in 2000. He has been in no hurry to produce wine from them, allowing the soils to rest and tidying up the vineyard over several years. He left the Co-operative in 2008, the first vintage came in 2009. He works with chef de culture Sébastien Rigault. Very good promise, both red and white, both Châteauneuf-du-Pape and Côtes du Rhône. The 2015 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Monplaisir white, 70% Grenache blanc, 30% Bourboulenc, so traditionally based, was a ****(*) wine.
LVT 2015 r 2015 wh Modern Châteauneuf-du-Pape in style. The domaine now works under the Terra Vitis – officially reasoned agriculture – banner. Fruited red wines that show well in free running years such as 2014 and 2011. There are also good, sound Ventoux reds and an easy drinking, early bottled Cairanne.
LVT 2015 r Racy fruit, up front wines from now well established young grower, though the 2012 showed more sucrosity. Since 2012, there has been a move towards greater finesse in the vinification, a move I applaud. Julien's father Christian started in 1972, and sold to Guigal, Barton & Guestier, and only produced 600-700 bottles. “Papa loved the vineyard, was a lover of wine and the vineyards, but was allergic to business,” Julien Barrot. A new vinification cellar [pictured] started with the 2015 vintage.
LVT (Last Vintage Tasted) 2014 r 2008 wh Has been improving. Wines are genuine, rather hearty
LVT 2015 r 2015 wh First vintage in bottle was 2009. 8 hectare property, with the wine sold in the past as Domaine de la Cabane. Sébastien is the fifth generation, and created the Consonnière name.
LVT 2009 r Pierre Folliet is a professor of tasting, bought the domaine in 1997, has a wine store in Lyon: 130 rue Vauban, 69006 Lyon, +33(0)9 51 99 37 87 firstname.lastname@example.org Unusual, long raised wines with their own character, well worth a look
LVT 2010 r 2011 wh Now organic; younger generation on board
LVT 2015 r 2015 wh A small domaine with reliable quality red wines. The Châteauneuf-du-Pape white (80% Roussanne) was much improved in 2015, a **** wine, after a ***(*) 2014. There is a rather good and traditional Côtes du Rhône white.
LVT 2015 r 2015 wh 2011 rosé Traditional style, genuine wines that often need leaving four to five years to settle down; they can amply repay the patience. Good, traditional white, suited to la table.
LVT 2013 r 2013 wh Traditional style, with whole bunch fermentations
LVT 2010 r 2014 wh Owned by the Brunier bothers of Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe. This is a younger vineyard, and finesse is favoured over power. Sandy soils contribute to that. There have been big changes since the 2010 vintage. That was the last one for red wine here, made and sold under the Domaine La Roquète name. Since then - from 2011 onwards - the red vine fruit from its 25.5 hectares has gone into Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe Télégramme, that estate's second wine, and a new wine, Frédéric & Daniel Brunier lieux-dits Piedlong et Pignan, which is 90% from the Pialons vineyard, 10% from Pignan next to it. The remaining three hectares of white vines continue to provide a wine called Clos La Roquète blanc, which is light and can be stylish.
LVT 2015 r 2011 wh Fleshy style reds, a good start. The Cuvée du Lion special Châteauneuf red is always good; the 2015 was an authentic wine, ****(*) quality. 2015 saw a third Prestige red wine added, called Le Lien, which was a **** wine. The white is traditional and full in style, suited to la table; the 2015 was ****.
LVT 2014 r 2014 wh A family who left the Courthézon Cellier des Princes Co-operative in 2004. Father Maurice works the vineyards, and the son Patrick, mid-30s, does the vinification. From 2007 they have become involved with the use of ex-Bordeaux casks and more oaking.
LVT 2009 r Organic. Improvement lately.
LVT 2015 r 2015 wh The Châteauneuf-du-Pape Les Craus Centenaires red, made in 2007, 2009, 2010 and 2015 is based on 1896 Grenache; the 2015 was a **** wine. There is an easy to drink white, the aperitif on the agenda.
LVT 2011 r 2010 wh
LVT 2012 r 2011 wh The Torts left the Cellier des Princes Co-opérative in Courthézon in late 2005. Jean-Marc is the fourth generation of his family to cultivate vineyards at Bédarrides. His first vinification was iin 2006. A domaine finding its way. Half the Châteauneuf is sold in bottle, half in bulk.
LVT 2015 r 2010 wh More hands on deck to help Serge Chastan now, with the arrival of his son and daughter - a good augur for the future. Northern sector wines. Organic since 2007.
LVT 2016 r STGT qualities here. Régis Barrot retired in 2013, and now lives in the Philippines with his wife Norma, near Davau, on the sea, His sister François and her husband André now run the domaine, of which two hectares were sold in 2014, leaving nine hectares of Châteauneuf now, with one hectare of vin de pays at Courthézon. The 2014 was all sold in bulk to merchants. The style remains hearty, traditional, with whole bunch fermentation. The 2015 and 2016 are both **** wines. There are six bottlings per vintage.
LVT 2015 r 2015 wh Recent start-up. Fair: supple style, power a question from its sandy soils. Their oenologue, Philippe Cambie, writes on the back label. The 2015 Châteauneuf-du-Pape white was **** wine - southern, with character
LVT 2014 wh 2015 r Gérard Jacumin's new domaine, since 2007. Organic wines, in a clear, direct style.
LVT 2011 r 2011 wh STGT qualities here on the reds. Long-lived, interesting whites, also. In 2012 2.5 hectares were sold to Yves Gras of Domaine Santa Duc at Gigondas, and other hectares were rented out to Bernard Duseigneur at Lirac, of Domaine Duseigneur.
LVT 2015 r 2015 wh Very traditional, inc whole bunch fermentations. Can hit the mark.
LVT 2015 r 2008 wh One of the sound domaines. Olivier Hillaire used to work his family vineyard of Domaine des Relagnes. This was sold in 2006, after which he set up on his own. He now has two Prestige wines, the Petits Pieds d'Armand, 100% early 1900s Grenache from La Crau Ouest, and Les Terrasses, from Les Escondudes near Bédarrides. Both are new oak cask raised.
LVT 2015 r 2015 wh Wines have been light; 2011 was more full, if reflective of Cellar Effort, while the 2012 was open, the 2015 red more grounded, as befitted that vintage. The 2015 white was an expressive, elegant ****(*) wine, one of the best whites of that year. There is a new wine called Le Pressoir, made from 60% Mourvèdre, with 40% Grenache, just 1,600 bottles; the 2015 was a juicy and stylish ****(*) wine.
LVT 2015 r 2015 wh A new cellar in 2006 gave quality a push upwards. The wines are crisp, modern. The Châteauneuf-du-Pape Tradition Domaine Paul Autard 2015 red was a wholesome **** wine. Oaking is apparent in the Prestige wines, including the 100% new oak white. The Prestige Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2015 La Côte Ronde red was a stylish and purely fruited ****(*) wine. The Châteauneuf-du-Pape white is 100% new oak
LVT 2014 r 2010 wh STGT qualities here, biodynamic, and has been organic for decades. Grenache in concrete vat - as it should be.
LVT 2015 r 2015 wh 2011 rosé There is a very fruity Tradition red wine, suave and appealing, always good value. There are pretty deep Prestige wines, when they are made; they are expensive and unctuous. From 2011 a good Lirac red has been made from mature vines at Roquemaure
LVT 2015 r 2015 wh Robust wines historically, although the 2015 red was a **** wine with a ping of clarity and fine detail - the influence of daughter Pauline
LVT 2014 r Nice, natural wine from a small, recent estate
LVT 2013 r 2013 wh Stéphane Usseglio seeks finesse in his reds, so has gone back to the simplicity of concrete, and dropped large old barrels. An excellent Cuvée Impériale in 2013. Improved white.
LVT 2015 r 2015 wh Sad back story, but hope continues in life. Luc Perrin took over from his father Roger in the 1990s, and raised standards. He succumbed to cancer in 2011. His sister Véronique Rolin and her son Xavier continue and are very motivated. Véronique has her own oenologue consultancy in the Northern Rhône. The classic Châteauneuf-du-Pape red is very genuine, and there are two reasonable Côtes du Rhône red cuvées.
LVT 2015 r 2015 wh Full, often punchy wines, which need time to fuse. The emphasis is on Grenache. The 2015 Châteauneuf Les Olivets red was a ****(*) wine, its cousins the Réserve and the Prestige 2015 reds both **** wines.
LVT 2015 r 2015 wh Sleek, aromatic, modern wines. Slight move towards more finesse and less opulence since around 2010, a good thing, as witnessed by good 2014s; the Auguste Favier remains the obviously coated style of wine.
LVT 2015 r 2008 wh Unpretentious wines from a 7 hectare estate. Slight improvement, the 2015 red a **** full and convincing wine.
LVT 2011 r 2011 wh Part of the Fines Roches, Mousset family empire - takes in Domaine des Quatre Vents, Mas Grange Blanche (good red) and La Font du Roi also. Modern, fruit-forward wines
LVT 2013 r Traditional, wholesome wines, with definite STGT qualities. A new Prestige wine since 2012 - Les Raisins Bleus made from the wooded vineyards near Rayas. Son Yannick joined the domaine in 2012, born in 1986. Hand-made, genuine feel here.
LVT 2015 r 2015 wh 2015 rosé From the Beaucastel stable, with a growing proportion of own vineyards, and long-term partnerships where the Perrin family help to supervise and execute the vineyard work. Extremely reliable quality, with the cheaply priced Vieille Ferme range recovering from a dip (feel of very mass produced wine) in 2015. The title changed to Famille Perrin, instead of Perrin & Fils, in 2009. The Vinsobres reds are very good, while the Gigondas Clos des Tourelles is a wine of great stature from old vines.
LVT 2011 r This merchant joint-venture started in 2000 between Laurence Féraud of Domaine du Pegäu and André Brunel of Les Cailloux. As one would expect, good wines, notably the Rasteau.
LVT 2010 r A small plot now owned by a Gigondas family who are sound vignerons. Big wine.
LVT 2015 r Guillaume is the current generation of the Gonnet family of Domaine Font de Michelle. He has two small lot organic red Châteauneuf-du-Papes from vineyards between Châteauneuf-du-Pape and Bédarrides in the east/south-east. They are both based on old vines, and the Bel Ami and Hommage à Maryline, the latter sadly in respect of his wonderful late mother, were both **** wines in 2015.
LVT 2007 r The one-off wonder of Châteauneuf-du-Pape. I find the wines heady in the big vintages, and prefer the quieter years, and the more simple cuvées. There is an absence of tasting notes since Henri has forbidden me access to his cellars following what I wrote about his views on Joan of Arc and Napoléon Bonaparte. The spirit of the Provençal grudge is alive and well!
LVT 2015 r The vineyards were part of the Domaine Mathieu, which has been divided between Jérôme’s family and André's family. The **** 2015 Anselme Mathieu red was a discernibly southern wine of sound heart.
LVT (Last Vintage Tasted) 2015 r 2015 wh 2011 rosé The Tradition wine is unpretentious, classic Châteauneuf, no frills, good. N-E sector, sandy soils. Good Côtes du Rhône Villages red. Has become an extremely reliable estate, the standard high across the board. Go on, Eric!
LVT 2015 r 2014 wh Neil Joyce is also owner of Domaine Dalméran at Saint-Etienne du Grès. This is a well-sited house in the west of the appellation, one that has been lavishly restored after years of being run down. Modern style. Promising opening vintages, notably for the Tradition red, which varies between **** (2014) and ***(*) (2015); the other reds risk being overdone, at high prices, as well. Very good red Vin de Pays 2011.
LVT 2015 r 2015 wh Recent venture based on a hill north of Vinsobres that, beyond Châteauneuf-du-Pape offers Gigondas, Vacqueyras and sound Côtes du Rhône as well - the emphasis is on ripe Grenache from as old vines as possible. There is promise here.
LVT 2014 r a joint-venture between English wine agent Charles Blagden and Domaine Font de Michelle. The wine was made at Cros de la Mure in the Massif d`Uchaux before 2010. The wines are sun-filled, pretty authentic.
LVT 2015 r 2015 wh 2011 rosé Quality on the upgrade here at this 250-member Co-operative in the north-east corner of Châteauneuf-du-Pape. Decent Valréas Domaine de la Côte red - ***(*) in 2014 - but basic wines for hypermarkets are ???
LVT 2015 r 2015 wh 2012 rosé Good quality, both Châteauneuf-du-Pape and Côtes du Rhône. It is now a certified organic domaine. The Châteauneuf Les Quartz red is always a good wine. From a set of very good Côtes du Rhônes, the Nature 2014 (no SO2) is delicious.
LVT 2009 r The family that used to own Château Husson for five generations. Given up for reasons of succession and inheritance, the Grangets started in 2008 with 8 hectares in the east and north-east of the appellation
LVT 2013 r A 4-hectare plot within the Château de la Font du Loup, a pretty setting with sand in the soil. 100% old Grenache.
LVT 2015 r 2012 wh What joy! Just one wine, no special nonsense Cuvées. This has for many years been a slow developing wine, authentic, a very good address. Daughter Claire's first vintage was 2008 - she does the vinifications. I detect a smoothing out and polishing up, with a loss of impact, in the 2013.
LVT 2013 wh 2012 r Extremely consistent quality, with a leaning towards finesse. Well worth trying in order to appreciate the true qualities of Châteauneuf-du-Pape. Good Côtes du Rhône reds - Est-Ouest, Sommelongue.
LVT 2015 r 2015 wh 2012 rosé Large scale merchant, some recent improvement on the Châteauneuf-du-Pape. They have an involvement with the Cave de Cairanne, Camille Cayran, so are producing steady Cairanne red and white (the white New Wave) now. There is an easy drinking Ventoux red called Chapelle Sainte Croix.
LVT 2012 r 2011 wh Philippe Cambie's selection of wines, with sourcing in negociant or merchant form, crop purchases. Seeks pure fruit, gourmand style
LVT 2015 r 2012 wh Owned by Skalli, big business. Improvement in 2010-2015 vintages; wines becoming more reliable, including a ***(*) 2015 Caves Saint-Pierre Châteauneuf-du-Pape Préférence red.
LVT 2015 r Part of the Mega-big Boisset empire. Sound Côtes du Rhônes, also Gigondas. The range includes northern Rhônes such as Crozes-Hermitage red, the 2015 a ***(*) wine. Accessible pricing.
LVT 2015 r 2015 wh Part of the Skalli empire. Steady quality, with a new name, the Côtes du Rhône Pavillon Réserve Saint-Pierre red a **** wine in 2015. From the northern Rhône, the 2015 Saint-Joseph Roquebrussane was a **** wine when tasted from casks
LVT 2012 r Oenologue dimension here, new business, authentic Côtes du Rhône red, 60% Mourvèdre
LVT 2015 r 2015 wh Traditional wines, STGT and authentic qualities, a very good address. The 2015 Châteauneuf red was a high quality ***** STGT wine when tasted pre-bottling, while the largely Mourvèdre Tintot 2015 red was a polished, impressive ***** wine.
LVT 2010 r Cyril Mousset is part of the Château des Fines Roches family
LVT 2014 r 2014 wh I first met Louis Geniest (1909-1990) in the mid-1970s, then the domaine disappeared off my radar, with much of the wine sold in bulk. His son Jean was a lawyer until his death in December 2008, and the domaine is now run with passion and commitment by his widow Monique, a lady in her eighties, with a cellar chief called Matthieu Faurie-Grépan present since 2011.
The remarkable thing about this estate is that their 30 hectares, average age 40 years, are all in one extended plot in the south-east of the appellation, on the sites called Crousroute and La Lionne, the latter close to a branch of the main Rhône River. That is a very large single vineyard, more usually found with the big Château properties. There are three red wines, and, since 2013, one white. About 30% is sold in bulk, down from 50% in 2011.
The style is for perfumed wines, with a gentle take that is found in the southern sector. They unfurl gradually, and after eight years or more, the bouquets become varied and interesting. There are still old vintages available going back to the **** 2004. The Arpents de Contrebandiers red was a most harmonious wine, like a feather in the wind, in 2014. This is a style that will slowly regain favour as the promoters of BIG wines at Châteauneuf lose influence.
LVT 2011 r 2011 wh Serge Mouriesse is an oenologue at Châteauneuf-du-Pape, (eg Domaine Pontifical), wine vinified at Daniel Stehelin`s cellar in Bédarrides. Has doubled to 1,200 bottles, first wine 2008
LVT 2015 r 2015 wh 2014 rosé A southern Rhône merchant/négociant, which is also active in the northern Rhône. Recent owners of the renowned Clos de l'Oratoire des Papes estate at Châteauneuf-du-Pape. Quality efforts have been made since the late 1990s, with a special cuvée emphasis, involving older vine fruit and modern, oak-related winemaking. The Châteauneuf-du-Pape Héritages red and the Clos de l'Oratoire red were both ****(*) wines in 2015, the former STGT, with lovely finesse, the latter quietly complex.
The main problem for the consumer is the proliferation of wine titles - at least five Côtes du Rhône reds, for example. The northern Rhône range is being gradually expanded, with a surge in 2015 due to the quality of the vintage; the 2015 Saint-Joseph Baligant was a ****(*) wine when tasted from cask at one year old.
LVT 2015 r Full-on style of reds, a broad range, with sound Village reds from Plan de Dieu, Signargues and Saint-Maurice. There is also a very respectable, southern glow infused Châteauneuf-du-Pape red, ***(*) in 2015
LVT 2012 r 2012 wh Michel Chapoutier's latest foray in the Rhône – he bought the old Jean Marchand domaine in June 2008 – a total of 4 hectares – with Pierre-Henri Morel, who is part of the Chapoutier team in the Northern Rhône. The idea is to also have a selection of other southern Rhône wines from appellations that are not so well-known, such as the Côtes du Rhône Village Signargues in the right bank Gard département.
LVT 2012 r 2012 wh 2012 rosé Young courtier-merchant business based in Châteauneuf-du-Pape since 1998. A family from Haute Savoie. Romain Duvernay's great-grandfather was a négociant to the CHR (Café, Hotel, Restaurant) trade in Haute Savoie, and both he and his father Roland are oenologues. First bottling under their own name with the 2009 vintage. Northern wines are sound, Southern wines can be reductive.
LVT 2015 r 2015 wh 2008 rosé Grand Veneur was the domaine wine until the 2014 vintage, when the title Vignobles Alain Jaume was adopted. The merchant side of the domaine is called Alain Jaume & Fils. Clos de Sixte is the Lirac estate. Some of the reds feel extracted, over cellar-influenced, so need time to regain a more comfortable poise. The Vieilles Vignes red can be a storming good wine. The whites are elegant, with the 100% Roussanne La Fontaine especially stylish, and the classic wine Le Miocène, based on 60% Clairette blanche, an STGT wine in both 2012 and 2015.
In May 2015 the Domaine La Grangette Saint Joseph at Jonquières, 1 km from Violès, was bought from the Tramier family. Its 50 hectares on clay-limestone soils are mainly Côtes du Rhône and its wine will be used to expand the domaine Côtes du Rhône red quantity.
LVT 2014 r The merchant arm of Jérôme Quiot, the owner of Domaine du Vieux Lazaret at Châteauneuf-du-Pape and the Château du Trignon at Gigondas. Sound Vacqueyras red. The business is expanding.
LVT 2015 r The vineyard of Pierre Barrot, the brother of Robert Barrot of Château des Fines Roches, who is the father of Amélie & Gaëlle. The red wine has been previously bottled for the family above all; his mother likes to drink it when it is 20 years old! The plots are spread right across the appellation, and the wine has a bright authority. It is at the higher end of the price scale.
LVT 2015 r 2015 wh Very steady quality; wines can take time to fuse and blossom. The 2015 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Père Pape red was a ***** wine, pre-bottling: thorough and persistent. The 2015 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Crau de Ma Mère white was w.o.w. **** wine, while the new Châteauneuf-du-Pape red Cuvée Alex (only 3,700 bottles) was a ***** wine in 2015, big and fresh.
LVT 2011 rosé 2014 r Good, very reliable Côtes du Rhône reds from good soils at Château du Bois de la Garde near Bédarrides
LVT 2015 r Bright new kids on the block, handling Southern Rhônes with panache, merchant business. The aim is for a "modern and expressive style" in the merchant range. Xavier Vignon is an oenologue. Among his clients features the reviving Domaine de Coyeux at Beaumes-de-Venise. The Xavier Beaumes-de-Venise is good, action man red wine, as in the 2014.