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The Wines

60-70% Roussanne, 15-20% Clairette, 15-20% Grenache blanc, (before late 2000s was 60-80% Roussanne (1980-82), 20% plus 1950s Grenache blanc, Clairette, Bourboulenc), fermented, raised 1-3 year 228-litre oak casks 11-12 months, lees stirred, malo completed, 900-1,200 b

2018 ()

attractive yellow robe; the nose has a note of damp, soaked white fruits, pear, lemon curd in the picture. The palate is soft and easy, bears a handy gras richness, a tasty middle, develops some oaking and toffee flavouring as it finishes. It’s a well rounded, easy to appreciate, slightly confected Châteauneuf, which is suited to white meats, for example. The oak and its squeezy texture prevail on the aftertaste. Don’t serve this too warm. 14.5°. 900 b. 70% Rouss, 15% Gren bl, 15% Clairette. Bottled Aug 2019. €66. 2029-31 Oct 2019

2016 ()

flinty yellow, a pale robe. The nose combines freshness, delivered with salt and citrus, and a neat couch of cooked white fruits, a pear-peach underlay, nice and secure. The attack is stylish, off we go. It bears trim gras richness, is suave and rounded, has a plump centre with good density at its heart. Citrus, mandarin and grapiness assemble in the flavour. It persists well, ends on dried fruits, apricot. There are threads of aniseed, their local imprint. It’s an authentic southern, true Châteauneuf with a calm depth from mature vines. From mid-2018. 2028-30 Dec 2017

2014

shiny yellow robe. Lime marmalade, bright first aroma, with roasted, salted nuts and flan in the mix. The palate carries the vanilla of its oaking, and for now is dumb. There is apricot fruit present, with some style in its late juice; the length is here. Hence the advice is to wait until 2017. It can get it together, and be expressive, with some character, as well. 14°. Bottled Aug 2015.  €63. 70% Rouss, 15% Gren bl, 15% Clair. 2026-28  Oct 2015 

2009

bright, shiny yellow; prominent oak aroma housed in an oily casing – this has a real ripe depth, and almost exudes the elixir of very ripe, squeezed grapes. It is broad, thorough, shows Melba toast airs from its oak, the oak not overdone. Air frees up pear and also a spirity air. (14.5° on the label). The flavour is varied, but above all this is a texture wine – rich, smooth, fat, unctuous, if a trifle boudoir-like. The flavour resembles flan and coconut seasoned with a light nuttiness and vanilla. The texture reflects the real silken nature of Roussanne from mature vines, the harvest ripe. It tightens and grips on the finish and is dossing now – it is in an easy phase, but has ways to go, and will become more “serious”. It may pause around 2012-14. Better to drink when it less obvious, around 2019 onwards. 2028-31 Jan 2011

2004

buttery, rather reserved bouquet , there is a touch of alcohol, and needs time to emerge and meld. The palate has a serious, full content, with spiced mixed in with the butter. Oak is apparent, but is integrated. Becomes chewy towards the finish, shows some heat but also good grip. Good length, oak aided. 2020-22 Dec 2006

2003 ()

honey, vanilla aroma, discreet spice underlay. Nicely rounded, melted butter start, then oak invests grip, and spice comes along. Refined. More length, expression around 2006, but can still close up. 2016-19 July 2005