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The Wines

100% Grenache (1912-1940s), from 80% Chapouin, 8% La Gardiole, 2% La Janasse, all sandy soils, 10% Coudoulet (stony), 80% destemmed, 3-4 week concrete vat vinification, daily cap punchings, aged 12 months in 65-80% large barrel, 20-35% new-3 year 600-litre oak casks, then raised vat 6 months, fined, unfiltered, first wine 1989, 10-18,000 b

2018

(large barrel/casks, bottling Apr 2020) very dark robe; the bouquet has an oily intensity, airs of soaked cherries, liqueur fruits, is grapey, raw. It’s a copious but coherent opening. The palate rolls along with a smooth wave of black fruits, inner succulence, ends pretty clearly. It gathers strength as it goes. There’s a slight vegetal note before the finish. The length is good, and it will show well after 2023. 15°. 18,000 b. 100% Grenache. €56. 2044-46 Oct 2019

2017

(large barrel/casks, bottling Feb 2019) full red robe. The nose has an air of iodine, squid pulp, octopus, with red berry fruits, live raspberry. The palate is broad and willing in its offer, runs with attractive red strawberry style fruits, a mobile jam nature. It ends on a little rounded succulence. This has good heart, carries true Grenache de Châteauneuf, and will be a terroir-faithful wine in time. The aftertaste is gently lip smacking. From 2022. 2040-42 Oct 2018

2016

(large barrel/casks, bottling Feb 2018) thorough red robe. The bouquet has a springy, fresh nature, hints of vegetation crunch from some stems, nothing bad about that. Beyond an attractive theme of perfume, there is also a hint of lees from its current raising. The palate runs well with crunchy red-fruited content, the tannins have spark, and the aftertaste brings in gunflint, cut. This is punchy, no-nonsense Chateauneuf, which needs to grow into its frame. 14°. 10,000 b. €54. From 2021. 2041-43 Oct 2017

2015

(large barrel/casks) dark red robe. The bouquet has a square shape, gives the image of thick skinned grapes via its slightly baked aspect, a low-key black fruit and a note of rosemary beyond that. The palate is intense, with a run of cool blue berry fruit and tannins that have edge on them for now. The finish is charged, and needs to integrate: currently it’s a dry, demanding sign-off. From 2020. 2037-40 Sept 2016 GB Fine & Rare Wines £275 6 b i/b www.frw.co.uk customerservice@frw.co.uk +44(0)207 089 7400  

2014 ()

(large barrel/casks) comfortably full red colour. The bouquet has a plum fruited air, a soft floral and mixed herbs top note; its depth is subdued, but will emerge. The palate runs with a direct delivery of kirsch, red cherry fruit. It is angular for now, and needs until 2019 to commence its rounding up and assembly of elements. It persists well, has the basis of a good wine that shows local punch. 14°. 15,000 b. €50. 2031-33 GB £170/6 bots in bond The Wine Society +441438 740 222 www.thewinesociety.com Oct 2015 

2013 ()

bottled last week: medium depth red. Smoky, subtle, interesting nose that holds intricate, different suggestions – red berry, smoke, nutmeg, a note of blackcurrant or cassis. The palate is closely bundled together, with digestible tannins that add weight to the finish. The gives a genuine Châteauneuf imprint, the south in the glass. It ends with taking variety, and there is good style in the Grenache, enjoyable soft and squeezy fruit. Very good. Decant this. 14°. 30% loss of crop this year. From 2018. 2035-38 GB £180/12 bots in bond Berry Brothers 0800 280 2440 +44(0)207 022 8973  www.bbr.com  Feb 2015

2012 ()

shiny plum red colour. The nose is deep, sustained, juvenile still and pretty fine. It lies on its plum fruit purely for now, with spice and flowers present, and plenty of variety to come. The palate presents a supple, wavy Grenache gras with tucked in tannins. It is stylish and nicely prolonged, a serious wine based on vineyard virtues. Serve in a large glass after decanting it. It has a good, tight and effortless sign-off, is poised and long, with a note of menthol and coffee on the exit. 15°. 2032-35 March 2015, London Previously Nov 2013 *** (barrel, bottling March 2014) sound red; plenty of herbs, sweet herbs, feature in the nose that has a smoked, lardon, pork note. Red fruit peeps out. For now, the nose is on the back foot. This has a sturdy frame; the red fruit Grenache sits second to its flinty, mineral content, tannins that grip. I wonder if the ripeness is as thorough as it could have been. This is a slow developer, with the hope that it can take on more flesh. Questions hang about the course and the progress it might take, so is rated as it is now. From 2017. 2031-34  Nov 2013

2011

(barrel) quite dark red, legs. Has an open-fronted raspberry fruit aroma, evokes a red pastille sweetness, is an open book. The palate delivers spiced raspberry-mulberry fruit that is suave, flows along. An agreeable sweep of blackberry fruit comes along on the finish, the tannins inset there. It is all very orderly, a sweet and facile wine. the length is fair, but it drifts a little towards the finish. From 2015. 15.5°. 2030-32  Dec 2012

2010

(barrel) dark robe. Blackberry and blueberry lead fruit air with sensible filling in the bouquet – this can become varied and stylish. The second fruit air is prune – ie ripeness. Enclosed, compact black fruit on the palate runs clearly, has cut. It persists well. It is reserved in all its youth. The fruit also runs across the palate, is juicy without undue flamboyance. It ends nice and coolly, and is balanced. From late 2014. 2035-38 Dec 2011

2009

(barrel) full robe; soaked red fruits with air of sweet fruit pastilles and red jam – a round bouquet. The palate is similarly round of shape and soft of texture. This holds deep-seated red fruit such as raspberry, is a sunny vintage wine – no doubt about that. The tannins are shapely and the Grenache has been well captured. STGT wine. From 2015. It will live well because of its balance. 2032-35 Oct 2010

2007

steady red robe; has a sweet, mulled style blackberry fruit aroma that comes en rondeur, has a date, baked note, very much 2007 in its nature. The palate is broad and immediate, holds thick juice, has a coated depth, merges with a pastille quality on the finish, dates there. Its thick tannins are ripe. This is a Big Boy: you can’t drink a lot of this near dessert wine, with shades of Port. 15.5° says it all. 2030-33  Nov 2015 Previously Nov 2008 ****(*) (casks) dark robe; the nose is intense by design – here are black fruits, polished leather, game and a little crème de menthe: it is oily and scaled up. The palate hides its robust nature under a feather eiderdown that gets in under the radar. It ends on some potency, with an overt black fruit liqueur there. It is woven with late tannin, licorice and oak. A manly wine that stands up well. From 2011. 2029-32 Nov 2008

2006

(casks) very dark, black cherry robe; sweet-toned black fruit aroma, with a little licorice, leather, prune. Has a black berry flavour, is intense, and has late grip. There is a hint of oak in the black fruit that tightens it and helps the wines's definition late on. Broad, imposing, smoothly textured wine with late pepper from the tannin. More ensemble and structured than the Tradition 2006. 2025-28 Nov 2007

2005

dark robe; the sealed-up, tight bouquet comes in an upright shape, holds black berries and an undertone of leaves and soil after rain, has more spine to it than the Tradition Janasse. Opulent, fat start to palate, with a creamy black fruits taste. Plenty of grip within, its density is prolonged, its tannins need leaving until 2010+. Is a high degree, 15°+ wine, this, runs on its concentration. Bottled May 2007. 2026-29 Nov 2007

2004 ()

pretty, quite dark red; simmered red fruits aroma that have an easy style about them, plenty of potential – are enhanced by a touch of the garrigue plateau – herbs, stones. The palate is well textured, gains weight as it goes, has the clarity of the vintage. The fruit is good and expressive. Persistent, clear wine. Esp 2009 on. 2023-25 Dec 2006 Previously July 2005 (barrel) **** tight knit, black fruits bouquet, garrigue/herbal outcrop aromas, too. Compact, woven black fruits on palate, extends well. Beau vin, with local feel. 2022-25 "Makes me think of the power and matter of 2000, with the extra acidity of 1999" Christophe Sabon July 2005

2003

good, thorough dark red colour. Really deep bouquet, intense but with elegant red fruit pastilles, a touch of sweet. Refined, lovely texture, oily and scented red stone fruits, very beau. Tannins are well set within the wine, not on evident show. This is a winner, succulent but also with elegant appeal. 2023-25 July 2005

2002 No Rating

NOT PRODUCED

2000 ()

plum colour. Scented, floating, rose hip aroma, carries the soft tones of very old vine Grenache, with plum fruits and sense that the grapes were picked deliberately late. Starting its second stage of maturity, contains latent vigour and can expand over time. Soft, aromatic flavour, the texture is suave, then it tightens as the tannins come along. Has a sweet, raisiny taste. A suave, plush style of Châteauneuf thanks to the pure Grenache, not a wine of "bite". Very silken and agreeable. Now good. To 2021-23 Aug 2006