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The Wines

40-50% Clairette rose + blanche (1935), 25-50% Roussanne (1982), 0-30% Grenache blanc (1930s) from clay-limestone soils, 36 hour decanting at 10°C, then 10 days steel vat-fermented at 16°-17°C, concrete vat raised one winter/6 months, unfiltered, organic, biodynamic wine, until 2005 was sold as Côtes du Rhône to allow more quantity, then Cairanne Côtes du Rhône Villages 2005-2014, 10-14,000 b


yellow with a wee note of pear in the robe. Has a rambling nose, honey and sweet melon, grapiness, white peach. It’s varied, and nicely full. The palate springs out well, comes with beau peach-plum fruits and cooked lemon flavours, dried fruits. The nose and palate aren’t yet fused together, but will get there. The Clairette plays a strong role in the mid to late palate, on waxen, herbs, pear fruit; it gives the vertebral column for the wine, and keeps the degree in check. This is coming together well, is STGT table wine for fine dishes, mushroom dishes. There’s a note of lavender on the close. 13.5°. 14,000 b. 40% Clair, 30% Rouss, 30% Gren bl. Bottled Apr 2017. 2024-26 Oct 2017


attractive, fine yellow colour. The nose bears reduction, so air this. There is a floral, honeysuckle drift to it, compote of white fruits within. The palate is neat, with a small centre of medium weight gras, and a gentle spread of fruits such as pear and apricot. It lacks a little stuffing on the second half. 13.5°. 10,000 b. 40% Clair, 30% Rouss, 30% Gren bl. 2018 May 2016

2014 ()

bottled two weeks ago: has a sound yellow robe; the pear-peach aroma trails elegance in its wake, a light nuttiness. The palate combines depth and freshness stylishly. There is a hint of tannin; it reaches out well, the length good. The flavour centres of dried fruits with a note of nuts. This table wine, a promising do. The exit is sprightly, salted. From spring 2016. 13.5°. 2025-26  Apr 2015


quite a full yellow. Has a buttery, vanilla noted nose, a serene central note of peach: it combines clarity with sound depth. The palate is nicely weighted, allows free drinking, and the balance is good. This chimes well, has a classy acidity, as well, good detail. This is wine for la table. 13.5°. 2018-19  April 2015


yellow colour, rather a fat look. Broad, round bouquet, has a fat, stewed pineapple, buttery nature: this is generous, abundant. The palate fruits assemble mango, greengage, white peach – they are assertive early on before the more tender fruits come through. Feet on the ground, food wine for courgette, aubergine dishes, white fowl in sauce, vegetable pastas and spiced dishes, sweetbreads (ris de veau), mushrooms, asparagus also. Nicely made in a traditional manner. 13.5°. 40% Roussanne, 40% Clairette rose + blanche, 20% Gren blanc this year. £11.95 Vine Trail GB. 2017-18  Oct 2013


mid-depth yellow; white stone fruits aroma, traces of SO2, and hone, nut and apricot in behind: the bouquet has some curve and appeal. The palate fruit is ample, broadens late on. Crème patisserie flavour works in with vanilla and white fruits. A wine based on refinement rather than outright power – I note it is 13°, suggesting they are trying to throttle back on the weight. Good with grilled fish, and a steamed monkfish in front of me now. Also good with chicken and fowl dishes.. To 2012-13 June 2008


(pre-bottle) white fruits, lime, ripe, round, ‘gentle’ aroma – in fact there is deep, latent power, and a late fennel note. Rounded, considered palate, is full with some style to it. Fat and nice and long. To 2011-12. “We picked the Roussanne earlier this year to achieve more freshness.” Frédéric Alary March 2007

2005 ()

quite a full yellow; open bouquet, with a littlepear, baked apple, lemon. Ripe, round palate, with good fruit lining and a rich core. Pear and honey mix together in the taste. Has a good, quite punchy structure. 14°. To 2009 June 2006