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The Wines

100% Grenache (1950s-1970s) on Gobelet and wire training, from 3 plots at Gramenon - very limestone with clay, clay-limestone, sand, 50-80% destemmed, 3 week vinification, pumping overs, 1 or 2 cap punchings, 20-25 mg SO2 applied after malo, aged 4-10 year 228 & 225-litre oak casks 12 months (until late 2000s was aged 50% concrete vat, 50% 5-10 year 228 & 225-litre oak casks 8 months), unfined, unfiltered, 13,200-16,000 b

2018

(casks, bottling Sept 2019) dark red; the nose is reserved, but has a safe depth, offers mulberry, neat raspberry airs, elderberry. The palate is expressive via its suave texture, and silken gras thanks to the old vines. This runs very continuously, brings in fine powder tannins on the end – there are tasty notes from them. This is balanced, harmonious, well together, a grown up Côtes. 50% whole bunch. 2028-29 Feb 2019

2017

(casks, bottling Sept 2018) bright red, purple robe. An aroma of blackberry coulis features in a rounded bouquet that is on the back foot now; there’s a good funnel of pleasure to come. The palate is tight, has early gras richness before a crunchy, vegetal stretch (it’s 50% whole bunch). The flavour involves red cherry, damson plum. The length is fresh, zoom! This has character, just makes it to ****. From late 2019. 2026-28 Feb 2018

2014 ()

quite a full red robe. Has an inky, darkly fruited nose with inner power. The palate is tight-knit, has a red cherry and redcurrants flavour. There are grainy-nutty moments along its path. Tannins dig in on the exit, and it is free on the finish. There is stealthy power here. 14°. 2020-21  £150 12 b in bond H2Vin GB www.h2vin.co.uk Nov 2015

2012

dark, full, black robe. Laurel, herbs de Provence are present above a full, warm fruiting; floral notes lurk, a very minor sense of game. The palate has a charm of violet, raspberry fruit in an easy, delicious debut. It drinks now on that shapely start, before a more cool, slightly more closed finale, a note of tannin. Licorice inserts, blackberry fruit, then more dark, slight chocolate tannin is the sequence. Promising wine; its tannins grip well, and there is a big leave-behind its dark flavour imprint. From mid-2014. 14.5°. 15,000 b, €9.10 export. To 2020  Oct 2013

2011

rather full red robe; smoky red cherry, fine grain airs, also a brioche, baked bread note – the nose is in a very primary state, with mainly fruit in the air ahead of herbs and garrigue influences. There is a nice intricate weave of red fruit along the palate; the tannins have some bite, and add life and length, show some crunch. From mid-2013. 2020-22 March 2012

2010 ()

quite a full red. There are strong notes of pine, oiliness, spirit on the nose – it delivers a picture of red meat, blood, basil. The palate is broad, bold and forward; it centres on juiced red fruit, very Grenache (tasted blind), with a sealed tannin close by. Resinous, but it is polished until the finish, where that effect revives. The finish is punchy, and it would go well with North African dishes – prunes, lamb, carrots, off we go. A Wild Child. It changes as it airs – there is a lot going on. A roller coaster wine of character. 14.5°. 80% destemmed, 16,000 b this year. €9 ex cellars. 14.5°. 2018-19  June 2013

2008 ()

largely full, bright dark red robe. Calm bouquet, gives a touch of pepper, red jelly aroma, the scent of rose-hip, had good depth, is nice and natural. The palate commences on pepper woven into red stone fruit – they are wrapped together, but then the palate really runs on, finds an unexpected further leg of its journey. A little oak comes through on the finish, the later part. Interesting wine, has very clear fruit and a pepper aftertaste. 2014-15 Nov 2009 8,500 b this year

2007 ()

2 bottles tasted. 1st bottle: ** full, dark and bright robe. Charcoal, raisin, tight aroma – is a bit strict, with smoke ahead of black fruit. A touch of burn in the “dark” palate fruit – this is less tender than other contemporary wines from here – the vineyard was hailed on. Stiff, military black fruit with a big run of tannin – the question is can it hit a harmony button? The finale is dry. Decanting it improves the finish. Bottle 2: **(*) softer nose, jam red plum fruit, flowers. Oily red fruit in a jam style along the palate. This is a light vintage with a bit of gummy sweetness at the end, but it is not cloying. It never achieves a really broad moment. To 2015. Nov 2009

2001 ()

gentle, sustained red robe; earthy, reduction airs on the bouquet, with some high tone and cherry here. The palate shows the use of ripe crop, but it flows very well, with a clear tone, especially on the second half. It moves straight along from the start. I prefer the palate to the slightly volatile nose. This has character, and is a wine of finesse more than robust body. There is a lovely white pepper aftertaste that is as clear as a bell, with a last minute moment of Grenache softness. Loses some acidity – welcome – and settles and softens with air. Decanting not a bad idea, even at this age. 13.5°. Sept 2007, Copenhagen