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The Wines

mostly Syrah (1993-98) from decomposed granite & schist soils on plateau at 350 metres next to cellar, plus some young Côte-Rôtie Syrah, 2011 & 2012 destemmed, 2-week fermentation, cap punching (not in 2015), pumping overs, aged 3-15 year 228-litre & 600-litre oak casks & 20 hl large barrel 9-10 months, fined, can be filtered, first wine 1997, 8-12,000-20,000 b

2016

bright red robe. There’s a good hit of raspberry fruit, clear lines through it, on the nose, as well as a tinkle of flowers, roses, which comes through also on the palate – a rose hip-violet presence there. It bears small, keenly cut red fruits, is immediately charming. It takes on darkness towards the finish. The inclusion of young vines Côte-Rôtie fruit and Côtes du Rhône fruit adds depth and freshness. There is the definite DNA traces of Côte-Rôtie within this w.o.w. wine. It’s great now, excellent with Christmas turkey or the aperitif. There’s a spot of spice in it. This is 20,000 b [12,000 normally] due to the inclusion of the young vines fruit. €9.50 is VALUE. 12°. To 2021 Nov 2017

2015 ()

1) (used 600-litre oak cask, schist soils) ***(*) red robe. Has a fully fruited nose, with a sense of red fruit pastilles from the depth and ripeness. This holds really live fruit, offers itself splendidly. It tones down into stylish grain tannin, has good sparks of mineral, a cool finale. 12.3°. 11 years. 2) (20 hl barrel, granite soils) ***(*) dark red. Has a blackberry, rounded, creamy air in a bouquet with a notably sunny roundness, very much in the eye of the 2015 vintage. This is supple, holds gourmand, rounded fruit, has a good oiliness, carries a ripe texture. 11 years. 2026-28 April 2016

2014 ()

½ bottle: has a tender red robe. Strawberry fruit in a coulis style shows with pepper on the nose, which is airborne, has upwards movement. The palate is softly fruited, bears light tannins, has a slightly sticky approach, doesn’t have great thrust and clarity, is a little skimpy. This is a junior vintage, which tapers at the end. It will have a touch more cohesion from spring 2016. “The vin de pays was complicated in 2014, with less density than usual. It is gourmand, not especially structured,” Jean-Paul Jamet. 12.5°. Bottled Sept 2015. To 2019 Dec 2015

2013

½ bottle: fair, fine red robe. Peppery, airborne aroma here, a bird on the wing, with a grounding of red cherry fruit, almost kirsch, at its centre, a tiny floral hum. The palate is freshly fruited with sinew, nerve, a little on the stretch still. The tannins have cut and pepperiness. It is grippy still. The aftertaste reflects ash. Bottled Sept 2014. From 2017. 2022-23 Apr 2015

2012 ()

½ bottle: level, quite full red robe. Good, streamlined nose, bubbles of raspberry fruit, hedgerow berries, and licorice. This has a very Syrah du Nord character; has pockets of tar in its fluid red berry fruit, leads a merry dance, has life and bonny spring in its step. This is w.o.w. wine – bring on the pasta and grilled meats. There is the tang and a spike of licorice and tar at the end. It keeps going, is very fresh. Bottled Sept 2013. 2021-23  Nov 2013

2011

red robe, appealing. Floral, iris air mixed with pepper – a great bundle on the nose, which has a stroking quality, caress, beckons well. Raspberry fruit under that. The palate is tasty! The pepper subsides, and the wine rolls on berry fruit jam, ending on a more toffee coat, the spin-off of its oaking. It gives a granite zip-zap before going into its more round phase of red jam. There is an underlay of dustiness, and I wonder if there was a small spot of Côte-Rôtie in it to help. 12.5°. 2017-18  June 2013 Previously Oct 2012 *** bottled 1 month ago: bright, medium depth – this looks like a drinking, not a storage wine. Spiced top note, above a nice loose red jam aroma, raspberry – it invites drinking, as does the robe. The palate offers loose flow red fruit that is spiced, and ends on neat, tight peppered and floral touches as it moves. Robe, nose and palate are all inviting to get on and go – there is juice, fruit and real drinkability. There is low key sweetness on the finish, which is good, comfortable, smooth. Great flow here, can be drunk solo, is w.o.w. wine. “If I sought denser wines, I would encourage reduction and have a longer raising, more new oak,” J-P Jamet. 2019-20  Oct 2012

2010 ()

purple robe, noticeably darker than the 2011. Violet-iris, floral air with reduction, blackberry jam and smoke. It switches away from reduction quickly, revealing grace and subtle strength. This has the granite clack in its texture, is nicely upholstered, is play a bit of a waiting game. It ends firmly and decisively. Cherry red fruit shows on the exit. Decant this. Will benefit from another couple of years. “It is still 10% below its best,” J-P Jamet. 12.4°. 2020-22  Oct 2012

2009

½ bottle: bright red, some purple. Open, even flashy red fruit jam aroma, long with brioche – certainly some cards still in its hand to play. Gourmand wine – a bountiful vin de pays for this domaine stylistically; has an ensconced sweetness and an aromatic aftertaste. There are pockets of late tannin, extra weight and “darkness” as a result. It is a ripe, solar wine rather than a terroir one. 2018-20. Bottled 15 Sept 2010. Nov 2010

2008

½ bottle: steady red robe; smoky character on the first aroma, a touch of graphite, red cherry along with hints of toffee. Good pedigree Syrah on the palate, with some red jam and later spice. Sound length. It is pure as usual, has fine tannin and that smoky, graphite close. This is STGT – its really fine red fruits are true to its place, and I give marks for that, even if it is not full of stuffing. It may gain weight. 12.5°. Bottled Sept 2009. “It is from mica-schist, so we aged it a full year,” J-P Jamet. 2015-16 Nov 2010

2007 ()

(half bottle) full red with dark traces. The nose is abundant for a vin de pays – it shows smoky black fruit, coupled with licorice, leather airs – there is good intensity in the fruit. The palate holds bonny black fruit that has clear tones – blackberry with drive in it. The length is good, too, with late pepper and attractive freshness. Really pretty fruit – a w.o.w. wine. To 2017. € Storming value at €6.50. “There is a very gourmand side of the vintage here, with a beautiful maturity, very ripe crop,” Jean-Paul Jamet. Dec 2008

2006

quite a dark red; the bouquet displays mild red fruit with a reductive air, and a near brioche or floral nature – this is local. The palate has a steady, scented red jam flavour – it is more fine than the 2007, and ends roundly. Sinew and late tannin come through – the tannins are already well wrapped into it, are typical of the 2006 vintage. Bonny fruit here. “I am having fun with the 1997 vin de pays now – it lives very well,” Jean-Paul Jamet. 2015-16 Dec 2008

2005

(half bottle) raspberry and spice nose, with a good foundation to it, has some local air, and violets. There is a bit of sweetness at the start of the palate, then it holds up well, its fruit is well present and there is nice stuffing in this. Good, rounded wine, with late traces of tannin. Has character, can evolve, is good value. Was filtered this year. 2013-15 June 2007

2002

(cask) live, bit sweet nose; some mid-gras, quite nice, length not bad. OK, as usual.