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The Wines

45% Grenache blanc, 15-25% Clairette, 15-25% Roussanne, 15% Bourboulenc from sandy soils on Les Bourguignons (W), destemmed, steel vat fermented 2 weeks at 18°C, raised 4-6 months, malo blocked, “drink as aperitif, or with fish, white meats, foie gras”, 1,866-6,000 b


very pale robe, just a glimpse of yellow, flint; the bouquet is fresh on top, with notes of ginger, cut, a layer of white fruit cocktail below, hints of flan. It’s a neat, controlled opening. The palate has a citrus-orange attack, a vanilla, grapey and candy follow-up, is rounded, lip smacking on the close. It’s OK, a bit plain, subdued, lacks highlights, nuances, drinks in regular fashion; I suspect that it has passed its first youth, and is in a holding moment for now, so maybe revert late in 2021. 14°. 2026-27 May 2021


yellow robe. Elder berry, hedge row fruit airs, white raisin, a hint of petrol. The palate links well, is expressive, holds suave, fleshy content, with an organized finish that doesn’t run into heat or excess. This has cool notes in its white fruits, a grapey flavour, and bears some finesse of its place. The finish is agreeably complete. 14°. 1,866. 45% Gren bl, 25% Rouss, 15% Bourb, 15% Clairette. Bottled Apr 2018. €20. 2028-29 Oct 2018


yellow robe, legs. Has an easy, rounded aroma that leads on peach and nectarine fruit, with a grapey presence also. The palate is weighted, smooth, a little in thrall to its degree, which removes some of the nuances it could offer. As such, it’s a wine absolutely for la table and sauced, boldly flavoured dishes. There is a white fruited, peach flavour that is followed by late glow. I find it a touch clumsy because of its degree, and the composition that that brings. 14.5°. 2021-22 Nov 2017

2015 ()

yellow robe. The nose is gentle, buttery, has a low-key violets presence in its peach and apricot setting. The palate proceeds with fine white fruits and a tickle of lime-inspired freshness. This drinks openly and well now, is full of charm, in the immediate. The close is fresh. 14°. 45% Gren bl, 25% Rouss, 15% Bourb, 15% Clair. 6,000 b. Bottled March 2016. €19.40. 2021-22 Sept 2016

2014 ()

pale yellow. The nose is reduced, needs air; there are hints of spice, petrol, cooked lemon. It has weight. The palate drifts, lacking a true HQ for now. There is a touch of aniseed and fennel in the late palate, cut and some tannin from that. Still more smudgy than precise. Decant this. It has the body to accompany local garlic, herbs inspired dishes, including brandade of cod, Marseillais fish soup. A Steady Operator, no false pretences. 13°. €18.90. 45% Gren bl, 25% Rouss, 15% Bourb, 15% Clair. Bottled Feb 2015. 2023-25  Oct 2015 


pale, almost translucent colour. Fresh and floral on the nose. The palate is floral, tender, as well, comes with an acacia blossom note. Quite delicate and fine in style. Drink early on the fruit.  To 2018  JL Oct 2014

2011 ()

pale yellow. The nose is reduced, but essentially fresh, shows airs of grapefruit, lime as if low temperature fermented. Vanilla pod adds some depth, and there are pear fruit and spearmint notes as well. This starts well. The palate is easy textured, in the here and now. But the finish is toasted, rather singed, and its depth of flavour drops as it signs off. OK, but plain. 13.5°. €17.50. To 2017. Dec 2012

2007 No Rating

1st bottle: yellow glimmers, SO2, acetate nose, dry, curly palate. 2nd bottle: zesty, laden with SO2. Nov 2008


quite pale; soft, white fruits nose – the traditional varieties, and a little almond and apricot bonbons, is squelchy and nutty. Round start to palate, holds an agreeable, quite soft richness before a chewy finale. White stone fruits, then some late hazelnut. There are dried fruits and raisin in the aftertaste. Has substance, and works well with grilled fish. Is orderly in its alcohol level. Just a bit short. 13.5°. 2010-11 July 2007