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The Wines

50% Grenache (mid-1940s from ‘Maguet’), 25% Syrah (1982 from La Font du Loup), 25% Mourvèdre (1977 from La Font du Loup), 30-35 day vinification for Grenache with daily pumping overs/vat emptying & refilling, 25-30 day vinification for Syrah, Mourvèdre with cap punching, aged Grenache 20-year barrels, Syrah/Mourvèdre 1-2 year casks 12 months, then 18 months vat, unfined, filtered, first wine 2000, only in best vintages, 4,000 b

2007 ()

largely dark red colour; the aroma is reserved – there are hints of red fruit such as plum and a waft of sizzled bacon or potato crisps with a beef flavouring. The palate starts with a supple, easy texture – comes with a mid-weight depth. It holds facile red fruit, no real diversity in it, and is accompanied by a little tannin past half way. Is more lithe than many 2007s, as if the soil here is not clay (tasted blind - turns out to be sand, with clay in it). From mid-2010. 2020-22 Nov 2008

2005

quite full, dark red; high tone, stilted black fruit-licorice aroma that has a burgeoning damp, meaty underlay, raisin-cake airs – it is a wee bit potent. Quite fleshy black fruit leads the palate, which becomes more tannic and oaked by the finish. The richness persists most of the way, the fruit a tight raspberry for now. The fruit runs well across the glass, the finish is dry. 14.5°. From late 2010. 2023-25 June 2008 Previously Dec 2006 ***(*) bright with some darkness in the red robe; oak, cherry fruit nose, smoky and sustained. A little charcoal, too – is upright now. Cherry fruit also on palate, again with oak lining. Soundly integrated, and good length here. Not especially deep wine, but likeable red fruits in it. The elegance card played over that of power. Esp 2010 on. 2022-25 Dec 2006

2004 ()

full, complete colour; fairly brewed, brambly cooked fruit aroma – tangle of black fruits and smoke. Expressive fruit with a good, direct thrust on the palate and cleanly cut. Length is sound. Tannins are ripe and quite overt. Beau – good structure. From mid-2008. 2020-22 Oct 2006

2003 ()

full, bright black plum robe. Has a gracious, if quite potent and full nose – shows blackberry, some charcoal and toasting, evidence of oak in its youth. There is prune and a good juiciness in this wide bouquet that fills the glass. The palate has a fleshy attack, set around layered black fruit with some nuances, and it runs consecutively – notably so for this vintage in its largely smooth texture. It ends on a tannin, pepper, drier note. There is good lateral grip in this – it is starting to settle, and is a modern style Châteauneuf without excess oak. Will be more local from spring 2010 and the finale will be rounder, too. A clean-limbed wine. 2020-22 June 2008