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The Wines

Viognier (late 1990s) from 0.3 hectare on sandy granite soils on La Maraze at St Michel-sur-Rhône, a vineyard exchange with Domaine Richard (who received Leyat, some Baleyat Côte-Rôtie), direct whole bunch pressing, steel vat fermented at 12°-13°C, raised 50% steel vat, 50% new 228-litre oak casks, raised 10-12 months, malo 50-100% completed, filtered, first wine 2019, 1,500 b

2020 ()

(vat/casks, bottling Sept 2021) shiny yellow; ripe fruit, expressive aroma, ripe orange, peach airs, a hint of lemon. The palate is pleasing, open, furnished with soft gras, all nice and curvy, supple. The flavours cluster around ripe peach, nectarine, apricot. The length is correct. This is traditional, authentic Condrieu for la table, savoury, gentle, round, lip smacking and accessible, with a helpful touch of late grip. Line up Vieille France cuisine, sauces for this. Malo half completed this year. 14.5°. 2026-27 June 2021

2019

full yellow robe; has a creamy aroma, vanilla, flan airs, greengage plum, white raisin, carries sweetness, is copious. The palate has a grilled opening, is very much on texture, upholstered. Late tang, tar sticks out rather, and I wonder if the pressing was a bit too firm. At table, that will be less noticeable. Glow, degree comes through on the aftertaste. It’s wee bit rustic, suited to country foods. Malo completed. Bottled July 2020 because the harvest for the 2020 Viognier was so precocious. 15°. 2024-25 June 2021