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The Wines

55-65% Viognier (Vaucluse, mid-late 1990s), 15-20% Roussanne, 8-15% Marsanne, 8-10% Clairette blanche, 0-5% Bourboulenc, 0-3% Grenache blanc from 50 suppliers mainly in the Vaucluse, steel vat-fermented at around 18°C, raised 12 months, malo completed or part completed notably on Viognier, 550-700,000 b

2020 ()

yellow robe; dried fruits airs lead the nose, pastry, cooked lemon, a hint of quince fruit, tang from that. The palate is subdued after recent bottling, holds secure richness, extends with spine, and a clear surround, is firm, well collected on the finish. There is a sense of Viognier in its suave outer feel. This is table wine, up for poultry, spaghetti with clams, soft cheese, ends with a note of power. Bottled one week ago. 14.5°. 2026-27 June 2021


steady yellow robe; the bouquet has a husky quality, a reserved sweetness, notes of petrol, varnish, tangy white fruits. The palate serves a well-founded content, pear from the Viognier, with an upsurge in latent power towards the close, the aftertaste solid, compact. It seems in an in-between phase, just past first youth, still working its way into a second stage. The depth demands food, as is also indicated by the label degree of 14.5°. It’s a bit top heavy, ponderous. 2024-25 Dec 2020

2018 ()

shiny yellow robe. The nose is expressive, shows lightly spiced white fruits, compote style, has ginger snap in it. The palate delivers the instant richness of 2018, has a flan, apricot flavour with a little late tang, freshness. The aftertaste is buttery. More table than solo wine. €7.50. 2024-25 Dec 2019


pale yellow; has a sibrant, senasaround bouquet, full of immediate impact, pear, cooked lemon, a hint of aniseed, mixed white fruits compote. The outer is buzzy, the inner pliant, soft. The palate has more “devil” than the nose, is tangy, comes with bitter fringes, and overt Marsanne notes towards the finish, some glow. This has nutty notes, a flavour of dried white fruits, skins. This possibly has less Viognier than usual, I feel. It’s definitely table over aperitif drinking. 13.5°. 60% Vio, 15% Rouss, 10% Mars, 8% Clair bl, 5% Bourb, 2% Gren bl. I note a combined 15% Marsanne and Bourboulenc, as they strive for acidity and tang. To 2025 March 2019

2016 ()

shiny yellow robe. The nose gives generously, led by pear from the Viognier; that is backed by an air of apicot juice, a light note of spice. The palate is nicely fat, has good heart, and lengthens into a little pebbly textured close, dried fruits there. This is table wine, for a good range of dishes, given its neat richness and more mineral second half. To 2021 Nov 2017


fine yellow robe. The nose is graceful, finely nuanced, comes with subtle prompts, pear, aniseed, tangerine fruits, with roast nuts – it’s a stylish opening. The palate also works well on style, with fine acidity and gentle pear-apricot flavours, a mild freshness on the close. This holds lots of charm for a Côtes blanc, is a detailed, commendable do. It has lovely Viognier-aided length. 13.5°. 65% Vio, 15% Rouss, 8% Mars, 8% Clair bl, 2% Bourb, 2% Gren bl. 700,000 b. To 2021 June 2017

2014 ()

yellow robe. The bouquet gives airs of peach, apricot juice, honeysuckle – it is soft and nicely filled with dried fruits, salt touches. The palate is rounded, with enough body for poultry, fish such as plaice, cod. The flavour is led by a tangy apricot. It grips quietly on the finish. The nose is showing more than the palate, but good body on the second half of the palate augurs well. 13.5°. To 2020  Oct 2015

2013 ()

firm yellow robe. The nose is broad and upfront, gives airs of white peach, lime, some fresh grapefruit, has a little oily underlay. The palate has a rich content with a stream of spiced fruit such as pear emerging after the attack. It ends quietly, tones down with a degree of restrained finesse. Beau vin. Foods over the aperitif – mushroom dishes, aubergine, courgette, poultry. 13.5°. 65% Vio, 15% Rouss, 10% Marsanne, 8% Clairette, 2% Bourboulenc. €8.00. 2020-21  Jun 2015

2012 ()

quite a full yellow robe; the nose shows evolution, a soft aroma of white peach, stewed white fruits, vanilla, honey. The palate has a tender feel, runs smoothly, and has a cool, dried fruits finish. This is elegant; I like its quiet persistence. It drinks very well now, is suited to steamed dishes. 13.5°. To 2018  Oct 2015


pale yellow; good, interesting, mixed aromas in the bouquet – apricot and peach fruit, with butter, greengage plum and some drift of influence from the Viognier that brings pear: a very good start. The palate is stylish and full, gives plenty to get one’s teeth into. Is a wine of body with minor tannins towards the finish, so it holds up well all through, is long. It freshens towards the finish. The flavours are varied – glazed fruits, apricot, vanilla, banana, white stone fruits, fennel. Great, indeed exceptional value at €8.45 at Monoprix. 13.5°. 2017-18  Sept 2012

2010 ()

yellow colour; pear emphasis from the Viognier – this is an intense, smoky nose, light butter airs with it. The palate is wide, has a tasty debut, lots of glazed fruit flavour, apricot jam. Has a flavour of pastry on the finish, plus some glow there. This persists very well, is good and long. Best with food – spiced dishes, and is rich enough for Asiatic cuisine, curry even. Bottle June 2011. To 2015. Dec 2011

2009 ()

apple front aroma, with a nice couch of gras richness underneath, and a welcome buttery, oily side to it. The palate has steady depth, succulent notes, caramel moments. Can serve as the aperitif, but plenty of flavour for dishes. The length is steady, and this is good value, no doubt. “We are very content. It is rich, but also fresh,” Philippe Guigal. Bottled May, this year only 20% of the malo completed. July 2010

2006 ()

some yellow in the robe; honeycomb aroma, direct and open, shows apricot with a buttery air from its Viognier. There is a pear flavour in the attack, with nice weight and a little late zest and pep. Clean finish. Drink up and get on with it wine, has fair depth. Sound late grip, quite a zesty wine. To 2010. Jan 2008


tangy, agile bouquet with peach and white fruits – is broad from the Viognier. Rich start to palate, with some control. Length is OK, drinks well now. Good as an aperitif, and light foods, simple dishes. Can live beyond just its youth – to 2010. Bottled mid-Nov 2006. Dec 2006 “If the malo is completed, there is more volume in the wine,” Philippe Guigal

1998 ()

fair yellow colour. The bouquet is pretty full, has a touxh of the white fruits, a bit of bonbon sweets also, butterscotrch. The palate presents a good hazelnut flavour, a tight fiullness. The roundness is very well done, the fullness convincing. This is marked by some Roussanne, and has a helpful acvidity towards the finish. The early palate is delightful, and the length very good. 2005-06 April 2000