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The Wines

Viognier from schist & decomposed granite soils at Limony, Chavanay, and between 2004-2009 from Chéry at Condrieu, mix of own crop and purchased crop, 2 day cool decantation, fermented at 16-18°C, raised 15% new 228-litre oak casks, 85% 1-2 year 600-litre oak casks 8 months (before mid-2010s raised 75% steel vat, 25% new, 1-2 year 600-litre oak casks on lees 6-8 months), bottled at 8 months, malo blocked, 20,000 b


attractive yellow robe; the bouquet gives a classic Condrieu aroma that involves apricot, pear, has a fine line of mineral freshness. There’s a little mystery, more to come. I note the carbonic gas immediately on the palate, which holds neat, engaging white fruits with a hint of spring flowers. It extends surely into a citrus-flecked close, gains a little depth late on, with a note of late oak thickness. It’s well made, nicely coherent Condrieu that can be decanted. 14°. €40.05. 2026-27 Nov 2019


full, glistening yellow robe. The nose runs with exotic fruits, ripe mango, papaya, carries oak toasting, a note of white tobacco. It’s a full, exuberant start. The palate is good-bodied, stands up well, has a mandarin, peach stone flavour and good depth in its gras richness. It runs with great consistency along the palate, and the length is secure, the aftertaste fresh. It’s one of the better, more accomplished Condrieus of 2017. 14°. 2023-24 Dec 2018


fine, bright yellow. The bouquet is restrained, set back in the glass, gives light airs of [each, nectarine, roast peanuts, mild banana. The palate offers a suave elegance, the classic Viognier soft texture, with a grapey essence, a fluid roll of content. It’s a low profile Condrieu, gentle if a bit tame, has a very light floral presence. It’s OK for the aperitif. It doesn’t really extend after the mid-point. It is nice, innocuous, not more. 13.5°. To 2021 Feb 2018

2015 ()

fine yellow robe. The bouquet gives a mineral air, without being fully forward. There is a note of lemon, citrus, also aniseed lifting it. The palate bears a flavour of greengage, white plum, with a sleek texture guiding it on the late palate. The presence of carbonic gas brings some outside pep, which marks the finish. It is refined in the context of the strength of the vintage. 14°. 2020-21 Oct 2016


yellow colour. The nose is broad, pretty copious, presents an apple jelly, white peach aroma. The palate has weight, a full grounding of content to allow a good union with quenelles de brochet (pike fish) and similar sauced dishes. The length is good. True Condrieu with some inner muscle. Decanting an option. 14°. €38.35. 2020-21  Oct 2015 

2013 ()

yellow colour. Has a honeyed nose, with a Marsanne style apricot-ginger nature, shows oak as well. The palate is sturdy, though it holds itself together pretty tightly. It shows supple gras richness as it finishes, so ends roundly. A food related Condrieu – it has the strength for sweetbreads, salmon. There is a good, clear, complete, somewhat chewy finish. 13.5°. 2019-20  Jan 2015


flint, pale robe. Attractive notes of white strawberry, light honey drifts, a mixed bag which also involves camomile, infused tea. This is an enjoyable aperitif Condrieu, suited to light foods as well. It is led by its fine acidity, which gives it poise and quiet direction. It ends freshly, with an aniseed-fennel lift. There is a slight gain in texture, but this is short-term Condrieu, where there is a bit of fade after half way as some depth is lost. 14°. To 2017  Nov 2013

2011 ()

fine yellow. Has a willing, deep air of cooked white fruits such as pear, along with dried apricots and pineapple, and from its oak, toast and vanilla. This is an agreeable, here and now Condrieu, delivers immediate pear fruit on the attack; a little bite runs along its sides from some tannic smudges. The heart tastes of pear and honey. More grounded than airborne; a fine acidity ticks through it. I would just favour food over aperitif, including Asiatic dishes. Decent length, quite sturdy – a wine that tones down as it goes, so food the best call. 13°. 2017  Nov 2012


glinting, pale robe; the nose has a lucid air,a good 2010 mix of ripeness and clarity, shows mild lemon, citronelle influences, is appealing. The butter-tangy fruit flavour is well-grouped – this has a definite central point of focus. There is body on the finish, plenty of content there. More a food wine than an aperitif wine. It shows very good clarity, and is free going along the palate. To 2016. June 2011

2009 ()

rich-looking robe, yellows in it. Big, melted butter-vanilla pod aroma, “impressive” in style, shows apricot, white jam. Has a broad-shouldered palate, whose depth is assured; it emerges with really marked oak on the finish, and is a bit stern there. Needs rich foods avec. A bit clumsy, very 2009 in style, shows heat towards the finish. 13.5°. To 2015 June 2011 Previously July 2010 *** big, full robe; wide, brewing, intense nose – butter and honeysuckle flowers present. The palate has big veins of firm fruit, is robust and persistent. A wine of big stature, firmly grounded indeed. Food best. 2014-15 July 2010


quite a full yellow colour, light gold suggestions. A broad circle of ripe fruit such as pear and pear near the core, white jam on the bouquet – white peach, lime marmalade. This is a large scale wine that is threaded with simmering power. It moves into a baked fruit zone towards the finish. Solid enough to need drinking with food. Its balance isn't quite there – it is just a bit forced. Suited to fish in sauce, and rich foods that will absorb its power. Has the style of a heavy hitter, rocks on in your face. The length is decent. 13.5°. To 2014. Dec 2009

2007 ()

legs down the glass, yellow traces; has a rich, nicely wide aroma – it mixes pear, honey, flowers, baked apple airs that come with some freedom. The palate has a firm flavour of pear, white fruits – this is a tight-knit wine. A full-bodied wine, with some reserve now. It runs evenly, with fibre in the texture rather than overt flesh. A good, solid Condrieu. To 2013. Dec 2008

2006 ()

mid depth yellow; has quite an ample, buttery nose with traces of lime and greengage, also quince jam – some cut in it. It is rare for a 2006 Condrieu to have its assured, ripe sweet note on the palate: shows baked fruits, a little flan. Then it levels out, and concludes on a raisin, Christmas cake note. The length is correct. Is above average, with its fair stuffing and OK length. 2010. Jan 2008 Previously Nov 2007 **(*) broad, open bouquet. Has a pretty nose, with some tangy apricot and peach – very classic. Fleshy, peach, white fruits attack with some sweet, candy flavour after that. Ends on a slightly sticky note – the rich tone of very ripe grapes. Is a low acidity wine this year, it seems, and its length is a question mark. Touch of end burn apparent – it does not quite fully last on the palate. Great bouquet, though. 14°. Nov 2007

2005 ()

opaque, sub gold glints in the robe; butter-spice, dried fruits nose with a tangy top note, can open and broaden. Generally broad, but reserved palate, is not obvious and seems to be traversing a dumb phase. Certainly has heart, and the style is structured, with a broad finish to come. Full style of wine at its base, a wine for food. From spring 2007. To 2010-11. 13.5°. Nov 2006 Previously Dec 2005 (casks) ***(*) latent but broad shape to bouquet. Well-pointed, stylish wine, with a mineral content, beau. Dec 2005

2004 ()

Can improve: pale colour. Delicate, floral bouquet. Pungent white fruits, some richness but finishes unduly sweet. Uneven at this stage, but has been in bottle only two weeks. Try later on. March 2005

2001 ()

nicely fresh, pretty nose, gentle pear, has lost the early oak. Butter and mineral elements mix on palate, stylish without being too clumsy.


floral, quite refined bouquet, some freshness. Dry-toned palate, as if it´s a wine for ageing. Tight texture, agreeable, with a dry finish.