The Wines

Syrah from Mauves, Charnas & Saint-Joseph site at Tournon, destemmed, 4-5 week vinification in small concrete vats, wild yeasts, cap punching, no press wine included, malo in oak, aged 25% new, 75% concrete vat (until mid 2010s aged 75% 1-2 year old 228-litre oak casks) 16-18 months, then 3 months concrete vats (until 2006 was 14-18 months 33% each new, 1 and 2-year oak), unfined, filtered, organic wine, “a wine of freshness & mineral qualities”

2017

(casks) dark, profound robe. The bouquet has an inky depth, shows oak charcoal, blue fruit with a licorice presence. It gives the image of a steep incline granite slope. The palate is muscular, intricately woven together, a smoky and tight affair, with only rather stubborn release of its dark fruit. The iron element is high here, and it’s a wine for the Thinkers via its reserve and Sudoku puzzle on the palate. It has persistent nerve all through, with fibrous tannins, a sense of vegetal on the aftertaste. Leave until 2022, decant it. 2040-42 Dec 2018

2016 ()

(casks) black-tinted robe. The bouquet has a dark fruiting, smoke-oak and prune together, presents a solid start. The palate is hefty, close-knit, releases its red fruit juice with caution, captures rocky fissures on the finish. This is a boom boom granite wine, a real child of the rocks, STGT wine. It resembles a 2013 with a more immediate charm, will take until 2020 to start to be together and coherent. There is a meaty undertow to it, and the tannins are vigorous, the aftertaste a touch parched for now, but good and long. Decanting needed. From 2020. 2028-30 Nov 2017

2015

(concrete vat/casks) deep robe. The nose bears a rounded aroma of blackberry, with a neat iodine presence, and a note of damp leaves from its ripeness. The palate brings a mineral, blueberry fruit with crispness showing through. It has a natural inner strength, and is nicely authentic, taken directly from the granite – hence there is a powdery, softly floral grip on the finish. STGT St Jo here: truth and clarity, with good muscle. From mid-2019. It’s an intricate wine with a potentially silken quality. 2028-30 Oct 2016

2014 ()

(casks) dark robe. The nose has a brothy quality, roast beef and peppery black fruit, prune all present. There is potential. The palate runs with peppery, free spirited black fruit, and ends with a fresh momentum. This will entertain. Drink from mid-2017. 2022-23  Oct 2015

2013 ()

(casks) full, dark robe. Toasted, grilled top note to the nose, under which lies an aroma of black berry fruit. The oak is prominent. This is stylish: the fruit comes in waves, has marked oak and tannins within it. It needs leaving until 2017. 2027-28  Jan 2015

2012

(casks) quite a dark red; dark berry, crisply noted nose which is a touch strict for now, has a rocky intensity. The palate gives clear breeze fruit with a rather fine depth, hidden reserves. Sound length, nothing hurried. It has cool black fruiting, is tight and coy just now. It ends with a small dash of fruit, which is encouraging. A wine with potential. From spring 2015. 2022-24  Nov 2013

2011

(casks) purple-black robe. Cooked black fruits with a nutty angle in the bouquet from its raising; has a grainy air, a spirity note – it is incomplete now. The fruit stretches out freely, drinks solo, with cut. There is a tang of licorice on the finish with its blackberry and a little violet. The aftertaste is floral. Not sure how much true depth on this showing. I would prefer to retaste post bottling. 2018-19  Nov 2012