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The Wines

100% Marsanne (mid-1980s) from clay-limestone alluvial soils on Les Chassis, southern zone, 60-80% steel vat, 20-40% 1-2-year 228-litre oak cask fermented at 18°C, raised 10-12 months, vat & cask wine assembled pre-bottling, malo blocked on vat wine, malo completed on cask wine, filtered, 6,000-7,200 b


shiny, bright yellow robe. The bouquet is quiet, but has definite depth, layering of rather “high” white fruits. There is a subtle smoky touch from oak. The palate engages widely, carries flavours of dried fruits, nutty tang, has sound heart and a suave texture. The finish is thorough, with more to come in a year or so. Its solid nature renders it good à table with lobster, tuna.  Decanting an aid here. 13°. 100% Marsanne. €14.90. From mid-2020. 2027-29 Nov 2019


assured yellow robe; the nose is rather fuzzy, lacks clarity, is corked. Bottle 2: full yellow colour; the nose shows grilling, a note of camomile tea, pork scratchings. The palate bears a steady richness, could be more refined, has a traditional approach which involves a spot of late tannin on the close, in with the Marsanne firmness there. It’s very much a table wine, for white meats. Decanting an aid. 13.5°. 2026-27 Dec 2018

2014 ()

quite a full yellow robe. The bouquet has a good, oily quality, rustles up white peach, nectarine fruit with a grapey, near Muscat, presence. This has good body, especially for a white Crozes. The palate connects well to the nose, and strides out with authority, good grip. Very good, well balanced, STGT wine. Great with poulet de Bresse (Bresse chicken). The freshness and neatness of grip on the finish are commendable. This really lights my fire. 13.5°. €7.70 export. 7,000 b. 2022-24  Oct 2015   

2013 ()

yellow robe. Lime, white raisin air, baked bread and spring flowers also – a nose of gentle qualities. This is drinking well now, aided by its calm note of gras richness. It extends with a steady, sure hand. Stylish Crozes white. It ends on a note of white peach, crabapple or quince. 13°. 6,000 b. 60% vat, 40% cask. €7 ex cellars. 2019-20  Jan 2015


fair yellow robe. There is a degree of understated strength in the bouquet, airs of orange peel, licorice, green tea. The palate starts on a smooth gras richness, develops gradually, runs consistently. This is textured to please. It shows a low-key tang on the finish. A safe bet wine, made without undue ambition. Drinks OK now. I would drink it with food – it has enough gras for simple flavours over the aperitif. 13°. 80% steel vat, 20% cask, 6,000 b. €7 ex cellars. To 2017  Nov 2013

2011 ()

mild, shiny yellow robe. Hazelnut, baked pastry air that comes with slightly hang dog white fruit, glazed fruits, as in notably ripe, mature crop – the style is full and broad, and food will be suited over solo drinking. This gives a good run of sturdy flavour right from the off; it shows grip and depth on the finish, is very typical Marsanne in its low profile fruiting. It works around a robust nut-baked tart wavelength. The attack is excellent, with gusto. The finish tastes of hazelnut, vanilla and quince. Decant this. From spring 2013. 2020-21  Nov 2012

2010 ()

shiny, level yellow. Has an air of pear, white fruit, glazed sugar, roasted nuts. The palate starts well – there is refinement in the Marsanne; it is all very clean and purposeful, keeps moving along. The length is refined, a mineral click on the finish, ends on a clear, light note of hazelnut, a classic Marsanne tang with an implication of mandarin. 13°. 2017-18. Nov 2011


steady yellow robe; creamy, buttery nose, plum, greengage fruit – it is firmly full. Textured, nicely judged richness – it is plump, but moves along, has some spice to season it. Good, uncomplicated drinking. It is fat on the finish. Good drinking, a w.o.w. wine. Drink early since it has low acidity. 13°. To 2013. July 2010

2007 ()

bright, dark yellow; the bouquet gives a varied set of aromas, and has intrinsic depth – pineapple, with vanilla, white raisin, baked fruits and brown sugar, so its cask exposure comes through, adds weight. The palate has a homely, rounded flavour with a comfortable mid-palate richness, which keeps going. It ends on light raisin notes, even sultana, with some mineral cut. A good, singing wine of good length. Fish in sauce, or stir-fry vegetables such as carrots, broccoli, bean curds – all good with this. 14°. 2011-12 Dec 2008 75% vat, 25% 2-year oak cask fermented, raised


fresh and tangy nose, with a little hazelnut undertrim, salty and a bit of SO2. The palate is brisk – it passes along at some pace: this is a fresh style of Crozes. The length is fair, but there is a touch of late burn. 100% vat fermented. To 2009. June 2008


bottle 1 * off-yellow colour; crème patisserie, raisin, hazelnut aroma. Has a hidden, low-key flavour: there is some content here, but the wine never arrests the attention. Skimy, and not clear wine. * bottle 2 – to see if this is better: hazelnut, Marsanne style aroma that lacks complete ripeness. The palate is rounded, and lacks depth. Is easy to drink and then forget – a don`t scare the horses wine. There is more on the attack than the finish. Dec 2006