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The Wines

varies between 2004 & 2005 ie 60% Syrah, 40% Grenache (both 1952-1960), and 2007, 2009, 2011 ie 79-80% Grenache (stony red-brown clay-limestone soils), 20-21% Syrah (stony dark brown clay-limestone soils, both varieties 1952-1960) from 3 hectares, destemmed, cool maceration, fermented by plot, 50 hl tronconic oak vat vinification up to 6-8 weeks, cap punching, pumping overs, part vat emptying/refillings, aged large 50 hl tronconic oak vat 12-13 months (before 2009 aged 1-2-3 year 225-litre oak casks 12-14 months), unfined, filtered, organic, biodynamic wine, 8,000-10,000 b

2017 ()

gentle red robe, transparency at the top. The bouquet is soft and appealing, with pinpoint detail via a perfume, dried flowers air with a note of spicing and cordite. It’s an elegant, restrained opening that works very well. The palate is also spiced, lined with supple richness, attractive juicing, lots of elegance all through. This is high quality Visan, naked and true, with deftness and freshness aiding it. The finish is long, and certain. The aftertaste has a touch of vintage dryness that is authentic. Gather round the bottle, study this wine that is full of character, and be stimulated. 14.5°. €15 at the cellars. 2027-29 July 2020

2016

solid dark red robe; the nose is reduced, so decant this. There is an inly of raspberry and plum fruit, a Grenache-inspired foundation to it. There’s a neat coil of sweet ripeness that appeals. The palate bears plum fruit flavours with fresh notes, spicing in tow. The tannins are keen, can move further inwards into the main frame. I like its serenity, nothing hurried here. The flavour and content are solid, the close firm, filled. From spring 2020 for more openness. 2027-29 Aug 2019

2012 ()

(vat) dark robe; biscuity, attractive black fruit aroma that is a little raw still, comes with direct thrust. The palate fruit is potentially tasty, nice and free. It is speckled with spice and peppery tannin, and can reach a winning harmony. Has sympa, unforced length. From mid-2014. 2019-20  Sept 2013

2011 ()

shiny, nicely full red, legs. Oily, somewhat high octane sense on the nose, has a note of licorice. The fruit stands rather in No Man’s Land. There are notes of black raisin and toasting as well. There is confirmed power on the palate – this is a wine of cellar thrust and packed-in elements. A pocket of dusty, grainy black fruit juice appears at the end, so it has hardly launched itself en route as yet. Has an assertive style, spirity notions that dominate on the finish, with some oak tar. From mid to late 2014. 14.5° - no surprise. €13.50. 80% Gren, 20% Syr this year. 2020-21  June 2013

2010

purple tinted, quite dark red; soft, open blackberry aroma that is curvy, sunny, primary, has a tang of some salt and tobacco. The palate picks up an easy cherry fruit, its tannins all comfortably wrapped into it. The freshness has been well achieved here, the raspberry fruit stylish and appealing. The fruit dwindles a touch, narrows a bit. It drinks easily enough; more to it from 2014. 14.5°. €13.50. 2018-19  June 2013

2009

shiny, deep dark red robe. Black cherries, soaked cherries air of sweet appeal – it is all ensemble, so this is a curvy, inviting bouquet. The palate has a fleshy, liberated start; its black fruits resemble the pulp of the grape, the depth is attractive, and this is a really pleasing drink. It has the stuffing to go with sauced foods, is young, enjoyable, w.o.w. wine that captures the vintage well, without any of its potential dryness. A very enjoyable, abundant wine. 15°. Bottled Feb 2011, 8,000 b this year. €12 at the cellars. To 2018 Feb 2012

2007 ()

full robe; grilled, sizzled aroma at first – has a potent nature, with black fruits within – is a big boyo. There is quiet steel in the palate's blackberry fruit, comes with a violet top note, but the power syndrome re-surfaces, leaving eau de vie on the lips at the end. It's a bit too much. 14°. 2012-13 Feb 2009

2006 ()

(casks) quite a dark robe. The aroma gives an immediate hit of oak and charcoal – it fronts up, and there is blackberry behind: there is a latent curve and richness in it. The palate starts with a mix of fleshy black fruit and oak/charcoal. There is a consistent spine through it, and its richness is secure. It needs leaving until mid-year 2009, but will show well, since its balance is sound. Olives and a soft tea flavour appear on the aftertaste, which is clear. Interesting for the future. 2013. June 2008

2005

mauve of some depth in the robe. Has an intense, latently oily bouquet – menthol and black fruit together, with chocolate and raisin – a good bundle, some herbs, too. On the palate there is also an immediately good ensemble of black stone fruits and persistent richness. It is very bonny, and is at a sweet moment now. There is a good rounded effect on the finish, which is complete and long. This does the business well. An example of w.o.w. in a mature wine. It can be versatile with different foods thanks to its well-established richness. 2010-11. Way ahead of the bottle tasted in Feb 2008. June 2008 Previously Feb 2008 * bright blackberry-cherry robe; the nose has red berry fruit with an unusual grapefruit air in it, and also plum liqueur – has some potential. The red berries on the palate have a stewed nature, the wine is cleanly made, and gains a few tannins as it goes. It ends on a liberated cherry note with some herbs, and bears some of the Visan sinew and slightly wiry fruit. The length is correct. The only problem – and it is one – is that after 90 minutes, the palate starts to pucker up, the fruit becomes uncomfortable and the nose loses its fruit and roundness. Really curls up with air: oh dear – our old friend extraction strikes again. A disappointing outcome. If you buy this – get your friends in and drink it quickly. 14°. Feb 2008

2004 ()

remarkable, healthy, rather bright dark plum colour. Lightly smoked, blackberry top air with a crunchy darkness in it, a sense of soaked dark berries, plums. The palate moves along well, reflects a fresh zone and offers cool blueberry style fruit with bonny late grip, all very orderly. This is in excellent condition, has been cellared here all its life, and is still bright as a button, like a wine three years’ old. It has no doubt eased its grainy tannins over time. An admirable wine. Dark touches, extra intensity on the aftertaste – it leaves the palate very clear. The mid to late palate is enhanced by a light flash of dust and herbs, a wine that doesn’t give its pleasure liberally. 13.5°. 2017-18  July 2013, East Sussex Previously March 2007 * smoky, tight bouquet – red fruit with a touch of marzipan. The palate holds red fruits, but the end is rather square and austere. I wonder how ripe was the crop. To 2009 March 2007