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The Wines

70-95% Grenache (1904-1905 from Bois Dauphin, Montalivet, La Crau), 5-20% Mourvèdre (1966, 1975-80 from Pied de Baud), 0-12% Syrah (1975-80, 1991 from Montalivet), destemmed, pumping overs, part vat emptying/refilling, concrete vat-raised 10 months, then aged large barrel 7-8 months, unfined, unfiltered, 1 bottling only, “in solar years, I put in more Mourvèdre to calm, restrain the Grenache”, first wine 1989, up from 10,000 b to 15,000 b to 20,000 b

2017 No Rating



full, dark red robe; the bouquet has a floating quality, raspberry fruit, silken notes, menthol, smokiness, a touch of boskiness, smoky mystery. The palate comes with an effortless glide, is upholstered in feel, with plum, red stone fruits, develops a steady surge towards the finish. It carries good spine, and its thorough filling comes from within. The tannins are fresh and extended, durable. From 2023, for example. 16°. 76% Gren, 12% Syrah, 12% Mourv. 2054-56 Oct 2019

2015 ()

(large barrel) sturdy dark red robe. The nose combines elder flower, with licorice, coffee beans, has a smoky cassis backing. The palate releases peppery black fruits with a juicy centre, carries fresh tannins which extend it manfully. The juice has its concentration of the vintage. It’s close-knit wine that requires being left until 2020. The finish is broad, the length sure. It gives plenty. 15.2°. 2031-34 Sept 2016

2014 No Rating


2013 No Rating



(barrel/casks, bottling March 2014) full red colour; soaked raspberries, enjoyably oily first air, bounty and fruit essence on show here: the bouquet is easy to appreciate, shows light airs of rosemary and a pebbly flint note. The palate pursues a path of stately, serene progress via a wide, prolonged sweep of mulled, fluid red fruits, with a squeezy Grenache centre to it. A very good palate in prospect – it has lots of gras richness to handle its buzzy, grainy tannins, has great sap. It has proper depth, width and finesse at the end, is good from A to Z. Decant this. 15°. From 2017. 2029-31  Dec 2013


(barrel) bright plum red, legs down the glass. Mulled, liqueur red fruits air with a sweet middle – the nose reflects the round, sunny curve of the south. The fruits line up as a graceful strawberry and cassis. The palate is also in a very primary, unfettered state, similar to the simple purity of the nose – there is not much nuance beyond the fruit for now. It takes on some nutty tannin towards the finish, as well as extra depth, more concentration. It accentuates the finesse of the Grenache. In the vintage style, there are fine, powdery tannins on board, leading to a crunchy finale note. From 2015. 2032-35 Dec 2011

2009 ()

sustained, dark red; slightly creamy air, red berry, juvenile stages now, fair width. The palate has a Grenache plum fruit lead, with lithe tannins entwined, the tannin crispy in style, some menthol freshness at the end. Red berry fruit and cut here. A wine of local character, and good length. Almost suggests the northern zone with its clarity. 15.5°. 2028-30 Sept 2011 Previously Oct 2010 ****** (barrel) good dark red; ripe raspberry aroma – has good style and ensemble about, with darker fruits such as blackberry jelly and the beat of the hot plains within - a good, local start. Nicely and juicily fruited palate that bears polished tannins that smoothly drive it along. Keeps its richness until the finish, and is wide across the palate. Plenty of promise here. There is harmony in a big, confident wine, which will be a real pleaser around 2015 onwards. Oct 2010

2008 No Rating



(casks) mostly dark red robe; the aroma reflects red berries such as raspberry that are ripe and in a liqueur form – there is a softly mulled fruits sweetness about it. This is pretty broad, and there is good curve in the fruit. The palate starts with attractive Grenache fruit, followed by a pretty mid-palate caress – the fruit is indeed elegant. The finish is clear and rounded, harmonious all through. The balance is good – this is pretty Châteauneuf-du-Pape, a w.o.w. wine. It ends on minor oaking. From 2011. 2024-26 Nov 2008


(casks) pretty clear, dark red robe; clear-toned bouquet, with red cherry, stone fruit that has a peppery core and is substantial. The palate shows also quite streamlined red fruits, this is a linear wine now. The fruit is near the crisp side of town. The palate is stiff and fenced in. Is something of a sole traveller, not sure what tribe it comes from. It may flourish around 2013, drink from 2010-11. 2024-26 Nov 2007


almost 6 stars: dark robe, some red there. The nose is enclosed, has a savoury leaning, toffee notes, its black stone fruit rounded, with smoky, slightly floral outcrops. Compact black fruit of a silken texture on the palate – clean, consecutive, smooth all through – this is remarkably long. It may be about tighten, toughen, close up. Its depth is secure, in no way forced, and there is great variety and interesting variety to come as it ages. 15.5°. From 2011. Has a lot of living to do. Go West, young man. 2028-30 June 2008 Previously Oct 2007 ***** bright, thorough red; sleek, nicely even red fruit, cherry aroma with a little garrigue lurking behind. There is a tight weave of stylish red fruit on the palate, very typical Grenache, and its tannins are gummy and true. The flavour emerges as cherry, with a little nuttiness in it now. Very good balance, very good fruit, and fresh length. Beau Vin. Esp late 2009 on. A very solid performer, and very typical, too. STGT. 2023-25 Oct 2007, London Previously Nov 2006 ***** quite dark with some matt in its tone; plum, cooked stone fruit aroma, a little peppery and herbal – varied appeal in the making. Supple texture to palate, a wine en rondeur, has good flow and gains as it goes. Ends with a clear-cut, dark fruited flourish, nice and decisive. Good potential, will live well. Tannins need leaving until 2010. 95% Grenache, 5% Mourvèdre 2020-25 Nov 2006


red robe, a note of ruby at the top. The nose has an aroma of cloves, coffee beans, black olives, some mineral glints that include juniper, a good airborne top with a slight sense of damp woods below. It’s a fascinating start, showing great evolution via its mixed prompts, takes me back to the 1960s when those wines were 15 years’ old. The palate starts cautiously, bears spicy and trim gras, has settled well, carries vintage coolness, the linear shape and clarity of such a year. This will go well with wild birds, pigeon, for example. There is thyme in the flavour, and good, fresh acidity on the close, which is very peppered, with garrigue notes. This holds good interest, character; it’s a spinal, fresh Châteauneuf far from the muscular image of Châteauneuf globally. 2036-38 Oct 2019 Previously Oct 2007 **** bright, British Post Office red colour; Game, dank red berry aroma that is open now and moving down the line. Expressive, peppery red fruits with a live nature on the palate, its tannins are also live. Clear aftertaste, grips tight there. Peppered aftertaste. Has an upright shape, a wine for drinking with game foods. 2032-34 Oct 2007, London Previously Oct 2006 ****(*) tight bouquet with plenty of promise, shows the classic red fruit of the Grenache with smoky top note. Bouquet is reserved and primary, as it should be at this stage. Well defined red fruit on palate, the texture is smooth, the flow good though the palate. This persists well, its fruit is savoury, the tannins well set within – they are apparent from late on and add a little licorice, Herbal aftertaste. Has good balance, no element is in excess. Plenty of life to come, and enjoyment, is a beau vin that can sing later on. Esp 2009 on for more expression, even though can be drunk quite easily now. 80% Grenache, 10% Syrah, 10% Mourvèdre 2030-32 October 2006, London Previously CdPape, December 2005 (cask) **** gummy, truffly, still very closed bouquet; sustained and thorough potential, highlights of red fruits and game to come. Big, muscled wine with a true Grenache nature. Length good, some freshness on the finish, nice and broad. 2008 on. 2023-25 Due for bottling March 2006 "Unusually we fermented the varieties together, because the Syrah's ripening was blocked by the summer drought, meaning that it ripened later than normal. We harvested until 1 October this year, as opposed to 15 September normally," Thiérry Sabon. Dec 2005


has a pretty secure red plum robe; the nose shows some high fruit, is almost on the fungal trail, but that gets blown off by airing it. There is a tight weave of red fruits, as if the wine is lying in a quiet, withdrawn moment. The fruit is very Grenache in style – it is presented in a solid way, maybe a bit demanding even. The palate holds punchy red fruits, with a slight theme of power and potency – a garrigue infusion towards the end as the wine moves on through. It is stilla little raw and upright, but has local feel, some STGT in its heartiness. It ends on a slight clamp from its tannins. This has drier leanings than some 2003s, and needs a good 2 years of quiet ageing. Has a peppery, hearty aftertaste, in tune with its local ID. 2022-23 June 2008 Previously Oct 2007 *** mild red colour that is still quite full; red jam with a little violet on the nose, displays a tight and well-fashioned ripeness. Palate starts with the taste of red fruit pastilles and prune, then has a real mid-late palate dart of firm red fruit flavour. Becomes a little dry from its tannins, the length is OK, but the question is “when to drink?” Its tannins are an issue, so it needs rich foods. 2020-21 Oct 2007, London Previously Dec 2005 ***(*) bright, dark red. Nose is full of spritely fruit, attractive red fruits, and the clarity of the 20% Mourvèdre playing a role. Red fruits, brewed in style, with a coffee influence. Tightens and becomes pebbly, a little dry towards the finish. Calmer from 2008. 70% Grenache, 20% Mourvèdre, 10% Syrah 2020-22 CdPape, December 2005

2002 No Rating


2000 ()

quite a bright, dark red plum robe; the bouquet is pretty in its round shape, with baked fruit tarts, red fruits and a latent floral air, with earthiness, cocoa and toffee here, too – this is a secure, subtle bouquet. The palate holds plum fruit, with some midway richness – elegantly so. It persists with a gentle refrain of spiced red fruit. This is harmonious in flavour and texture, and ends on a slight pebbly note and a raisin aftertaste. Very correct, very long wine, also very pretty and fine. Good length, subtle charm and tasty – pretty good combo, I'd say. It can sing a sweet melody as it ages; the winter 2007-08 has served it well, plus I am drinking this at Châteauneuf, where it may have evolved a little ahead of London (see previous note) 2018-20 June 2008 Previously Oct 2007, London **** red with a little pale line at its top; cautious, red jam aroma, also violet and some dark berry fruits. Palate has a smoky, bacon style flavour and enclosed red fruit as it transitions from its first flush of youth. The fruit is withdrawn now, and the texture comes in a peppery mould, with some late southern gras/richness supporting it. Length is good, has a smoky, charcoal aftertaste. 2019-22 Oct 2007, London 60% Grenache, 20% Syrah, 20% Mourvèdre

1997 No Rating


1996 No Rating


1995 No Rating


1994 No Rating



sustained robe – dark at the centre, and running up it; there is some chocolate on the nose, holds ripe stone fruit, also mint, pine resin – there is a lot packed in. The palate is really dense – it is young, big, very full, really is deep, like plunging into a pool of black fruit flavour which ends in an olive taste. Great volume in this complex wine. Its final heat is actually suave. “Since 1990, I have made a rendezvous with an American client for 2020, the second Wednesday in May, after the siesta. We have signed the bottle of this that we shall drink then. The bottle will be there, but I may not be! I am 59 now, he is 54 – we`ll both be on our walking sticks then. We call this our kneeling wine – you fall to your knees before a wine like this.” 2022-27 April 1999 95% Grenache, 5% Syrah, large barrel aged 2 years. 9,400 b

1989 No Rating

95% Grenache, 5% Syrah