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The Wines

33% Grenache blanc, 33% Bourboulenc, 33% Clairette (mid-1980s) at 350 metres, the north side of Mt Ventoux, steel vat fermented at up to 12-15°C 6 months, raised 2 months (before 2011 was fermented, raised 67% used 228-litre oak casks up to 10 years old, 33% enamel vat), “I usually have some Grenache blanc with a spot of noble rot; it usually closes for 2 years since there’s no Viognier or Roussanne, is most interesting in its 1st year or after 8 years”, malo not completed (not blocked since wines have high natural acidity), filtered, first called La Montagne in 2007, organic wine, 450-2,000 b

2017 ()

fine yellow colour; dried fruits, pear and a hint of apricot assemble on the nose, which has a sure depth. This is fleshy at heart, but comes with cool sides from the altitude. There are nutty dabs late on. This is good wine for la table, has structure. “Since 2012, I haven’t sold my white because it’s always drunk too soon,” Philippe Gemel. 14.5° - this is weighted. Bottled June 2018. 2,000 b. 2028-29 Feb 2019

2016

fine yellow robe. Dried fruits, pear, hazelnut combine on the nose. The palate has good nerve, is steely wine with an upright frame, holds sound gras richness, ending; it’s long and full with stealth, has a red wine semblance. It has grippy, extreme length, must be decanted. It has the balance to live and to vary. It’s much about potential. 14.4°. 2,000 b. Harvested mid-October. 2027-29 Feb 2018

2014

yellow robe, evolving a bit; the nose has a dried fruits air, is dominated by Clairette with an air of fennel, crushed nuts, is young. The palate sets off well, holds measured richness, straightens, freshens, with hits of lime, spearmint, good energy. It shows its altitude in its nerve and slow evolution. It’s a wine with Southern grounding and Nordic flanks, has character. 13°. 2033-35 Feb 2020

2011 ()

full, tinted cream-yellow colour; has a wide, profound nose of real depth and almost an oaked strength – but it is not oaked. Shows an air of myrtille plum, cooked banana, a sense of lees. Has a structured, wide palate with lots of rolling flavour, bundles of taste that suit many different foods – aioli, fish stews, bouillabaisse. It settles down into fine acidity and has a firmly sealed sign-off of fennel and licorice, white stone fruit with a spot of gras richness. Very local, unfettered, STGT wine of character; there is a little oiliness, sap in its texture. 830 b this year, €10 export price. 13°. 2021-23 May 2012

2007 ()

two bottles tasted, 1st lightly corked. 2nd bottle: very stable pale yellow colour; honey-spice, white plums air with a drift of vanilla and banana. The palate gets off to a rich, textured, oily start – that is its main impression. There is a lot of gras richness, not a lot of expression in it. Double decant it, thus. It is in a closed phase, but has plenty to it, and is a wine for fine foods – lobster would do well. It ends with discreet acidity, stone fruit and apricot-vanilla flavouring, white raisin there as well. A fine wine. 14.5°. 2019-20 May 2012