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The Wines

100% Mourvèdre (1974-1975) from limestone, galet stone covered soils on 0.228 hectare on Coteau de l’Ange (N-W), usually whole bunch fermentation (except 2013, all destemmed), 2 week concrete vat vinification at 25°C, pumping overs, cap punchings, part vat emptying/refilling, aged 4-5 year 600-litre oak casks 16-17 months, unfined, unfiltered, label has words sous la tyrannie under the vintage, called Montagne Vieille until 2012, 800-900 b

2016 ()

(casks, bottling March 2018) full red colour. The bouquet shows the inky intensity of the Mourvèdre, has a firm depth, notes of roast beef allied to a compact black fruit aroma. It’s a muscular start. The palate holds well shaped content with a development of spice along its route; there are flavours of black raisin, chocolate, prune fruit for now. This has thorough body, and good integrity, is graceful, feels hand made, and its late juice is nicely sustained, the aftertaste fresh. This would give a top Bandol a run for its money. Decanting advised. 14°. 800 b. €28. From 2021. 2033-36 Oct 2017

2013

shiny full red robe. The nose is reduced, has a red meat air, but it bears potential elegance, groups on red berries, is quietly concentrated, with a little toffee. The palate links closely to the nose – it is a Mourvèdre refined by the soil of Châteauneuf-du-Pape with herbs and sweetness late on. It has pretty good heart and potential, is a bit dumb for now. The juice is thick, dense, ends with firmness, the depth comfortable. It is still wild, but goes well long, and demands you be patient with it. Decant it. All destemmed. Bottled March 2015. From 2018. 2031-32  Dec 2015

2012 ()

red robe. The nose is reserved, offers spice, prune and date airs, cloves and peony flowers, grilling and toffee. The palate is neat and compact; this will roll out a bonny ball over time. Its gummy tannins are well inset. It smooths out well, is just exiting its first phase. The tannin crunches up on the finish, is delivered with real attitude, the tar of the Mourvèdre. It is more polished than the 2011. The finish is impressive – it steps up there, is fresh and prolonged. 14°. 2027-28  Dec 2015 Previously Nov 2013 (casks, release April 2014) steady red; pepper-spice outer air, a dense nose with chocolate depth, as if oak at its heart. The aromas show a North African heat, dry note, black raisin and prune. The palate starts on pepper, its tannins dry early on. The fruit is red plum. Disorganised, demanding as it stands. The finish is chunky. The second half is afflicted by dry tannins, and it closes early. Has strength at its heart, offers no fancy concessions, is a “take me as I am” wine. Gutsy, unrefined. From late 2015. 13.5°. €18. 2023-25  Nov 2013

2011 ()

red robe, slight advance. The nose is blooming into a full second stage, with grilling, darkly brewed fruits, a depth of red meat. The palate starts trimly, fine juice presented, good quality purity, before the tannins ease well into the picture. There are bosky elements, especially on the finish, with a surge there and cool menthol note. The purity is beau. 13.5°. From mid-2017. 2026-27  Dec 2015