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The Wines

33-50% Grenache (early 1970s), 30-33% Mourvèdre (early 1980s), 20-33% Syrah (early 1990s) from galet stone covered sandy clay-limestone terrace soils, destemmed, 2 day pre-fermentation cooling, 4 week vinification, daily pumping overs, concrete vat raised 10-11 months, fined, filtered, organic wine, 12,000-20,000 b

2018

matt dark red tone to the robe; the bouquet gives a subdued, baked aroma of cooked plum fruit, a smoke and herbal hint attached. It’s together as an opening. The palate comes with spiced, muscular content, develops a tarry, assertive side towards the finish, power in the aftertaste. It’s a grounded Lirac, closely packed, with concentration that sets it up for game dishes above all. No sign of organic on labels. Decanting helpful. 15°. 34% Gren, 33% Syr, 33% Mourv. €12.50 at the domaine. 2024-25 Oct 2020

2017 ()

healthy red robe; the nose is grilled, on assertive red fruits that bang the drum, carry an oily imprint, breather power within. The palate is immediately on scale, has a thorough presence, pushes out thick red berry fruit with furry, layered tannins in tow. This is on a liqueur trail, a wiry intensity, the result of the hot, very dry summer. It avoids being sipping only wine. There are garrigue elements towards the finish, so a wild boar stew would suit.14.5°. 34% Gren, 33% Syr, 33% Mourv. €12.50. From spring 2020. 2030-32 May 2019

2015

sober plum red robe. The bouquet is quiet, restrained, has a Grenache red stone fruit with a sweet top note that brings in prunes, is round and spiced. The fruit has a “high” quality, and there is tar, darkness from the Mourvèdre. The palate holds plum fruit that is spiced, and tannins that have a firm texture, grip. It builds saltiness and cut towards the finish, where there is licorice from the Mourvèdre, black berry fruit, late glow. It runs with steady length, no gaps. The palate reflects Mourvèdre and Syrah more than Grenache for now. Noticeable alcohol is a drawback. The length is fair. Decant this. 15° - which I note. 2022-23 May 2017

2014

(vat) steady red robe. The nose is firm and carries potential: it  leads on varnish, basil, licorice, pine; the front is seared, the back holds a subdued aroma of black berry fruit. There is more to come, as well as variety in the offing. The palate bears swish dark fruit with a constant of dark tannin lining its sides. It is polished, manly wine with free run juice in its veins. It goes long, the finish a true flourish of dark fruit. This delivers plenty. 15°. 33.4% Gren, 33.3% Syr, 33.3% Mourv. 12,000 b. From mid-2017. 2022-23  Feb 2016

2009 ()

rather full robe; blackberry, ripe style fruit air with a sweet inlay and some leather-smoke, a crème de menthe richness in it. The palate is all together, is not especially expressive. The tannins and the content are sound. Correct wine, but it lacks inspiration. There is a wee knot of tannin and herbs on the finish. 15°. To 2016  July 2011

2008 ()

2 bottles tasted, 1st bottle Brett, Volatile Acidity, a poor example. Bottle 2: dark plum colour; I still find Brett on the nose, also acetate that blocks the way – this has a yeasty outer air. The palate is baked at first, then moves ahead on the second half, and frees up. Double decant this. The fruit moves cautiously late on, the length is limited. Ready now. 14°. To 2013.  Dec 2009

2006 ()

bright, quite dark red robe that is evolving a little; herbal, pepper, red stone fruits bouquet – it shows the Mourvèdre influence – licorice and herbal airs. The palate has a quite a direct shape, but is nice and clear, and ends as clean as a whistle. This provides attractive drinking, the fruit coming with a bite of tannin. A wine where one can call for more – ça passe bien. Good typicity, vintage respect, STGT leaning here. Good with lamb, and rich dishes. 2012-13 March 2009

2005

bright cherry robe; reductive aroma – within there is suave black cherry fruit, fruit gum sweets. The palate is measured, quite round, but lacks true depth – it is escapist. The fruit quality at source is pure, seems to show a Syrah influence. The balance is OK. Decant before drinking. Reduction is dumbing it, and this can be shrugged off for a better, more whole wine. Not at its best today. 2013-14 June 2007