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The Wines

33-35% Grenache (mid-1960s), 33-35% Syrah, 30-33% Mourvèdre, destemmed, 2-3 week vinification, pumping overs only, the best selection of the Lirac red wines, done in the cellars, but 70% of the time comes from the same vineyard plots, Syrah-Mourvèdre aged 20% new, 40% each 1-2 year oak casks, Grenache vat raised 18 months, unfined, filtered, organic wine, 50,000 b

2015 ()

shiny, quite dark red colour. This has an elegant, nicely sustained nose that shows classy, simmered raspberry fruit, all in a juvenile state, not yet varied. The palate unfurls a rolling ball of black cherry fruit with polished tannins well inset, all part of its orb are they. There is stylish gras richness here, and good, extended length. It is serene, well-filled. From 2018. 2027-29 Nov 2016 GB £165 12 b in bond H2Vin www.h2vin.co.uk info@h2vin.co.uk +44(0)203 478 7376

2014

handsome, shiny dark red robe. The bouquet has pedigree, is a broad affair, spreads a canvass of simmered black fruits, with a ping of precision that raises the quality. The palate offers tasty dark red berry fruit, a mix of mulberry and loganberry, and travels with a confident, long delivery. Superior 2014 Lirac, a complete, balanced and coherent wine. 15°. 2021-22  Feb 2016  Previously Nov 2015 ***(*) (vat/casks) shiny, quite full red robe. Has an air of soaked cherries, a bouquet of fair depth – it is youthful, gives airs of blackberry and licorice. The palate coasts with red berry fruit, has an inherent power, the strength of dry lands. It is a little wiry as it stands, the juice compressed. It isn’t an ensemble yet. This needs to be prised open: drink from spring 2017. 2023-24 £156 12 b in bond H2Vin GB www.h2vin.co.uk Nov 2015

2013

(vat/casks) good dark red, magenta robe. The nose is nicely full, with minted and fresh notes; there is an aroma of suave blackberry fruit at its centre, has a bonny youthfulness, shows potential, is full. The palate strides along well, picks up live licorice-led tannins, ends on a near point of power. This has good life in it, is a wine with a chunky foundation. Oak and smoke show in its tarry exit. It is just a shade pushed in the cellar, but is more complete than the Dame Rousse 2013. From 2017. GB £81/6 bots in bond Berry Brothers 0800 280 2440 +44(0)207 022 8973  www.bbr.com £150 12 b in bond H2Vin GB www.h2vin.co.uk 2023-25 Nov 2014

2012 ()

rather dark red; nicely scented depth in a varied nose that has an elegant profile, but lacks obvious definition today. It gives a sense of future blossoming, has a prune ripeness in its compact make-up today. This has a closely packed, juicy heart. It sustains consistent waves of dark fruit that are ripely done; they persist quietly, there is late grip and some sucrosity. It is still a bit “thought out in the cellar” on the palate, but has foundation and will furnish richness from late 2015. £150 12 b in bond H2Vin GB www.h2vin.co.uk 2022-24  Nov 2013

2011

dark red-purple. The nose is cautious, a bit metallic, spare and upright, vegetal, some licorice. The palate has a steely start, comes with cutting black fruit. It ends drily; its fruit falls back as if extracted, shows high acidity on the gums. Uneven sample here. May 2013

2010

dark, shiny robe of plenty. There is lots in the bouquet, which is still under wraps, bears a healthy depth of blackcurrant, mulberry and a latent note of red meat – it hums with some garrigue herbs, has local stamp. The palate attacks on lively, abundant fruit, with a criss-cross of sparked tannins after that. This is an active “up” wine that intensifies and pushes into its dark heart on the finish – there is black cherry fruit there as well. The tannins and oak are strict enough to require leaving it until mid-2015. Good balance, good length, a very complete Lirac, well above the usual fare. 14.5°. 2024-26  Nov 2013  Previously Dec 2011 ***** (vat/cask) full robe; sizeable, interesting nose – lots of depth and quality, black fruit airs and a handsome mix of violet and ink. Brisk, moving palate – this is one of the best Liracs from Mordorée of recent years, stands up to the 2001. It is smooth along the palate, glows with its wellbeing, has real good depth. Great juice in it, and lots of life. From spring 2013. 2023-25 Dec 2011

2009

full robe; pepper-spice, good and decisive nose with a pretty underlay of cherry, black fruits. Tasty and wholesome wine – I can dine off this, has sex appeal, good fruit and also moves along well. Bright late tannins, good length. Very good, the late palate is wide. Licorice on the finish. From 2012, but it drinks vigorously now – this will get any dinner party going. 14.5°. 2018-19 March 2011

2008

full and bright dark robe. Smoky, green oak influenced top air, while quite fresh blackberry fruit lies below. It is in a first, primary state and hasn’t varied yet. Agreeebale, rather juicy black fruit shows up on the palate, has oak all around it. The oak is bit in excess, and will rob it of part of its youth. The flavour mixes blackberry with smoky licorice at the end. The fruit inside the oak is good. From late 2010. Will be in good shape especially 2012-14. To 2016  Dec 2009

2007

handsome full red-black robe. The nose has a prolonged depth to it, even if it is not yet articulate or precise – there are suggestions of black fruit, oiliness. The palate’s good cut and thrust black fruit has clear quality and drive, and extends well. More Lirac should be like this. The balance is pretty good, the wine exudes some late power, is young and still in its first stage. It is a little on reduction, so decant it. There is a cluster of licorice-tasting tannins on the finish. 14.5°. To 2017.  Dec 2009  Previously Nov 2008 *** (vat/cask) dark robe, black cherry. The nose is tight - its first note is primary and close-knit, upright – but there is an interior richness lurking. The palate bears oak-infused black cherry fruits, and lengthens as it goes. Oak is driving the car for now, but the fruit is very stylish and textured without excess oiliness or liqueur. It can move into a herbal, varied zone with another 18 months. Nice structure here. 2015-16 Nov 2008

2006 ()

dark, black cherry hue to the robe; there is a supple, lateral gourmandise in the nose – mulled, scented blackberry and mulberry are the fruits. It is sympa, and rich enough to show olive, garrigue, southern airs. Supple, squeezy black fruits lead the palate. It is rounded and harmonious enough to sing as it ages. The tannins are polished – fruit and tannin go well together. It is classier than many 2006s at Lirac, but just needs to sort out its finish and its oaking, which is a wee bit dry. From 2010. 2016-17 Nov 2008 Previously June 2008 ***(*) full dark red with black traces; has an intense bouquet, led by slightly mulled fruits. The palate holds deeply-set fruit – blackberries – and ends firmly but completely. Air brings a crunchy side to the fruit as its oaking is revealed. Good heart and length in this. There are satisfying late tannins – ripe and pleasingly live. From mid-2009. 2015-16 June 2008

2005

dark robe; big fruit nose, with the potential to evolve and vary – the fruit is very well set in it, it is broad in the making, and there is some primary oak for now. Good fruit leads the palate – it has grip, and good tannin edging. Great core richness here; there are herbal touches late on, with a snap of nutty tannin. Powerful quality – I like these ripe, bouncy late tannins – there is lots of licorice appeal in them. Lovely balance, accomplished fruit and freshness. Will be more integrated by second half of 2008, but balance is good and can be drunk now as well. 2017-18 June 2007

1996

very dark. Smoky, nicely and quietly powerful bouquet, some deep, dark fruit in it. The palate has great density, is clean, offers plenty of smoked flavour. It is fresh, and has potential. Especially drink from 2000-01. 2008-10  Oct 1998