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The Wines

from La Crau (N-E, oldest 1929 Grenache), plus Les Galimardes (S-E, oldest 100+ yrs), Bois de la Vieille (S-W), 80% Grenache, 10% Mourvèdre, 5% Vaccarèse, 2.5% Counoise, 2.5% Cinsault, Syrah and various, destemmed, 21-20 day vinification at up to 30°C, pumping overs, cap punchings, raised 80% steel vat, 20% oak casks (10% each new, 1-2 years) 12 months, unfined, filtered, organic wine, 10-20,000 b

2017

(steel vat/casks) full red colour. The nose is weighty, shows soaked fruits with a fat aspect, is an immobile start – you have to like this pronounced style. The palate rolls along with glistening content, holds the smooth pleasure of texture from here, is well wrapped as it closes in a spherical shape. It’s not a wine to drink much of, but it gives gourmandise and some fragrant, firmly juiced content. There is a note of black raisin, the vintage style, on the close. 15°. 8,000 b. 80% Gren, 10% Mourv, 5% Syr, 5% Vaccarèse. €45. From 2022. 2041-43 Oct 2018

2016

(vat/casks) gleaming, very dark robe, almost black all through. The bouquet has a pulp of dark fruits aroma, great intensity in its raspberry-blueberry fruit, with a quiet note of menthol and polished leather. It’s broad and brimming. The palate is dark, very well filled, delivers black fruits that pick up spice en route, with local colour such as black olives. The finish is prolonged, has real gusto. This is serious Châteauneuf, covers the ground widely and completely. The note of lift on the aftertaste gives it good final momentum. From 2021. 10,000 b. 2042-44 Oct 2017

2015 ()

(vat/casks) dark red robe. There is a bold aroma of raspberry fruit liqueur on the nose, a concentrated raspberry, a hint of garrigue herbs. The palate strikes out on a surge of red fruit, travels with gusto, and its freshness really defines the late stages. This is good, vigorous Châteauneuf, full of southern fuel. Its buzzy tannins are life providers. Wham! – it hits the line well. From 2019. 2037-40 Nov 2016 GB £400 12 b in bond H2Vin www.h2vin.co.uk info@h2vin.co.uk +44(0)203 478 7376

2014

(vat/casks) sober dark red robe. The nose is quite weighty in the 2014 context; there is an oiliness in its sweet-noted black berry, loganberry fruit, and it can go further. The palate attacks on a creamy black, prune fruited aspect with supple, wavy tannins settling alongside, leading to a smoky and broad darkness on the finish. Plenty to enjoy here over time. From 2018. 2030-31 £385 12 b in bond H2Vin GB www.h2vin.co.uk Oct 2015 

2013

(vat/casks) rather full red, shiny colour. Has an air of simmered black berries with an attractive roundness. There are also light touches of red fruits and flowers. This bouquet can become stylish. The attack bears the freshness of the vintage – it goes “clack”! A berry fruit thread runs through it, all clean and purposeful. Non-Grenache elements dominate it, so that feature plus the vintage style render it an upright wine. It gives a bonny spot of Grenache gras as it ends. Has quiet promise. From 2017. 2033-35 GB £180/6 bots in bond Berry Brothers 0800 280 2440 +44(0)207 022 8973  www.bbr.com £375 12b i/b H2Vin www.H2Vin.co.uk orders@H2Vin.co.uk Nov 2014 Previously Oct 2014 **** (vat/casks) deep purple-black colour. Ripe, broad and full on the nose. Creamy, blackcurrant and dark fruit aromas with a touch of licorice as well. Palate shows a hint of oak. Tight and firm in structure. Tannins chewy but rounded. Will need some time to come round. More power than finesse but loads of matière for the vintage. 15°. From 2017. 2027-29 JL Oct 2014

2012 ()

(bottling next month, Jan 2014) full, thorough robe. Nice and shapely nose, plenty of appeal in its soaked berry aroma, doesn’t hold back, is round. It has a bonny depth, and shows airs of rosemary and licorice in the background. The palate gives liquid, fresh fruit with good heart, starts on dark berries, has a peppery late moment, is tasty overall. There is good buzz in its rich, fluid style. Sealed in tannins support its late moments well. The exit is fresh, tangy, a little craggy for now. It can sing in time with profound linger. From 2016. £375 12 b in bond H2Vin GB www.h2vin.co.uk 2031-33  Dec 2013

2011

(bottling next month, Jan 2013) good full robe. Black cherry liqueur aroma with lots of licorice, the fruit coming in consistent waves. Tar and violet are present, and a low-key sweetness, with a meaty, bacon stamp as well. The palate is serenely weighted, agreeable rounded, holds good, striking fruit. There are chalky notes in the crisp tannins, and the aftertaste is peppery, fresh. Has scope for the future. A slow developer with plenty to deliver. From late 2014. 15°. €38. 2029-32  Dec 2012

2010

(the first one-third bottled, the rest to be bottled next month) dark, shiny, wholesome robe. Appealing, soft violet air within an aroma of ripe black fruit – the nose has a full Châteauneuf elegance; it is young and monochrome, not yet varied as far as it can go. There are smoke-tobacco, prune and blackberry notes for now. The palate starts on a profound prune flavour that has lots of drive, ending on flowing tannins that are well inserted and give the wine length. Good balance in a wine of big coating. 15°. “It is aromatic, not heated, and the tannins help its balance. It has a sublime length, and is very suave,” Christophe Delorme. From mid-2014. 2033-35 Feb 2012

2009 ()

(vat/cask) full red, purple, good robe. The nose complements the robe – it is suave, all together, offers sleek and civilised red cherry, stone fruit, with vanilla pod in it – it is gracious, and floats well. The palate is also in the vein of a well-shaped wine, with poise in its fruit. It is shade international for now, but is bright and clear, its power wrapped in well, just gives a late glow, along with some oak. Very fine wine that will be more local from 2016 onwards. From 2013. 2029-31 Oct 2010

2008

bright plum colour; has a wee bit feral, berried aroma, an undertow of earthiness that takes away from the clarity of the fruit. The palate exceeds the nose, is more together, gives a bonny wave of black, smoky fruit, followed by good tangy, lightly floral later moments. It has a clear aftertaste, where heat and degree simmer though. A manly sort of 2008 Châteauneuf, drink with roasts such as lamb. Good now. 15°. 2020-22  Sept 2013  Previously Dec 2009 *** quite a full red, violet within. Solid, constructed bouquet with black fruit borders – comes as a crunchy, grilled event with raw promise. The palate displays greater structure than many 2008s, even with the oak helping that state of affairs. Foot down on the pedal wine that is rather worked on, but the fruit is well set, ends on the healthy glow of its region. Has a herbal aftertaste. From mid-2011 – needs to relax and settle, can do that. 2020-21 Dec 2009

2007 ()

(vat/oak) dark red, purple robe; has a clam, expansive aroma – red fruits, redcurrants here – with some ballast or depth. It is all very primary now, but has scope with snap and grilling present, too. The palate gets off to a soaked red cherries or griottes start; there are juicy red fruits in this. It has plenty of agreeable richness and a fairly wide finale, with pockets of tannin there. The length is sound. A sure fire purchase that will please its buyers. 2026-28 Nov 2008

2006

has a very thorough, full black plum robe; there is a nice graceful curve in the black berry fruit on the nose – comes with a lissom, good oily nature. This bouquet is a there-quarter affair, not a maxed-out one this year. The palate is intense, still very young – shows a full black fruit with mocha, some raisin, and a stiffening from the oak later on. There is a good inset of richness in this. Some violet and soaked cherries are present in the palate flavour, which keeps going. Ends freshly, respects the vintage. From 2010. 2026-28 June 2008

2005

smoky, brooding bouquet with a lot of content; deep, sustained black fruits on palate, olives and southern herbs as well. Good life in this, is open-sided with a fringe of tannin that works well. Broad and elegant, good juice in the texture. Good length, clear finish. I like its balance. From 2010. 2029-31 In bottle one month, so good promise here already. March 2007 Previously Nov 2006 *** dark, black cherry colour. Smoky, smouldering bouquet with black fruit and licorice, an oak top. Upright, oaked flavour that intense and rather extracted. Black fruits with jam touches here. The coating of the palate comes more from the cellar than the vineyard. Overtly punchy, strong oak for now. May regain terroir around 2010. 2028-30 Nov 2006

2001

still bright red, dark cherry robe; subdued but confident nose – there are cherries in the air, it is still young and not yet varied (has been open one hour, so not shifting much) – thus decant. There are floral and herbals airs as well. The fruit is from the handsome, clean school of living, offers black cherry, plum with a supple, thorough nature. It ends on charcoal and tar from its oak. There is an agreeable herbal infusion in the flavour, and good, solid length, a meaty late burst. 14.5°. 2022-24 Nov 2008

1998 ()

still full, quite dark red robe, dark tones. Has a peppery, snappy bouquet – olives here, minor oak influence. The palate black plum or prune fruit has style and poise – it is juicy, unlike many 1998s now, and is clear in tone, with pepper and tannin sides from its oak. Has a big finish – black cherries, some power there. There is some sweet gras richness on the palate, and this gives way to the licorice, violet, barbecue smoke of the aftertaste. 14°. 2020-22 Nov 2008

1996 ()

the nose is foxy, shows some manure, and dry influences. There is a Grenache-style sweet globe of fat and fruit on the attack. Rather chewy palate, and is a wine that gradually grows along the palate, comes with a genuine, aromatic Châteauneuf angle. Isn’t really singing and the balance is questionable. “I want to make concentrated, but not rustic wines,” Christophe Delorme. Wait and see. From 2001. 2014-17  Oct 1998