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The Wines

50% Grenache (mid-1970s), 25% Syrah (1999), 25% Mourvèdre (1999) from 0.36 hectare on red earth, shingle soils at Roquemaure, hand harvested, destemmed, 10-15 day concrete vat vinification at 25-27°C, pumping overs, cap punching, since 2010 aged 2-3-4-year oak casks 6-12 months (before was concrete vat raised), fined, filtered, until mid-2010s was Côtes du Rhône, 1,900-2,000 b

2016 ()

(casks) sustained, very dark robe. The nose is a rolling, sweeping affair, has some refinement, shows blackberry fruit with an engaging sweetness, a hint of licorice. It’s a tiny bit baked. Oak is picked up on the attack, the fruit and content around it stylish. The non-Grenache elements are in the ascendancy here, with Syrah chocolate-oak/blackberry fruits served on the second half. The length is good, with black olives in the closing flavour. There is decent style here, even with a pretty high degree that doesn’t rule it. This is fine at heart. From mid-2020. 15°. 1,900 b. 2029-31 Sept 2018

2015 ()

plum red robe. Has a spicy, appealing bouquet with a kind of sweetness of prune and loganberry jam; it has a winning serenity, a good mixed fruiting. The palate is lined with neat, clear black berry fruits, spicing and graininess bringing lift and freedom. It’s tight, restrained, with purity at its heart. The glow on the finish is one inspired by the sand, shingles and summer heat. It will soften a little, drinks freshly now. It’s a trifle spare. 14°. 2024-26 Dec 2017

2011 ()

medium red colour. Gritty, crunchy air that reflects a compact red fruit liqueur, Grenache plum fruit, with notes of smoked bacon, pine and resin. The palate gives a sense of high octane and power forces; it is fat, obvious, pumped up in style, and doesn’t convince across the palate. Monolithic, static sort of wine. I find it overdone, something of an oaked fruit bomb. 13°. To 2019  May 2013

2010

healthy, full red. Oak, charcoal tang front air which dominates the nose – it is very hard to access its fruit, which is possibly black cherry. The palate also gives immediate cherry oak, the fruit blueberry, with blackberry, coolly fruited. A wine of the cellar over the vineyard. I am not sure if the oak will ever ride out of town as it evolves – this should be less oaked now. A pity – the raw matter is good, has some fine gras. 13°. 2020-22  May 2013

2009

the robe is matt in hue, dull red; red jam, minor spice air. Pushy delivery on the palate, bears red stone fruit, works on power, push. The finish is seemingly full, a little uneasy. An effective, charged wine. 13.5°. Needs food – roast lamb, for instance. 2019-21 July 2011