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The Wines

100% Marsanne at 350 metres on limestone & clay-limestone soils, fermented, raised 55% oak, 45% vat (until 2007 was 80% vat, 20% oak), on lees 6 months, regular lees stirring, malo completed, 10,000 b

2013 ()

shiny yellow robe. The nose is neutral, hidden – gives a light peach air, a wee floral presence, a buttercup under note; it has freedom and lift. The palate is en finesse, marked by fine fruit, peach-apricot, and a small grip, squeeze of extra depth as it ends, with some honeyed and spiced touches. It is delicate, and solo drinking is OK – it is very much a wine for the here and now. To 2017. 13°. €13.25 at the cellars. Jan 2015

2011 ()

rich yellow, legs; this has a greengage plum, barley sugar aroma, its fat in keeping with the colour. There are deeper honey and orange marmalade airs, and an alert Marsanne zest. The palate attacks on hazelnut and nougat in low profile, dried fruits, a note of tobacco in them. There are is a note of white truffle on the aftertaste – this is earth-bound, not airborne wine. In time, an elegant finish can be coaxed out. From spring 2013. decant this. 13°. 2020-21 Nov 2012

2010 ()

mild yellow, green tints in the robe; rounded nose that wraps itself around an air of bonbon sweets, also bears hazelnut. Compact, rather robust depth, which lasts, on the palate. It ends on flan-banana notes. There are nutty-peanut areas with the tang of crisp fruits towards the finish. Potentially a stylish wine. 13°. To 2020.  June 2011

2009

quite a rich robe, legs down the glass. The nose is evolving towards brioche bread, with dried fruits, grilled bread, toast, and is aided by a good, local breeze of clarity. The palate sets off well, picks up from the nose, is complete. Long and purposeful , a genuine STGT wine. There is a bitter tang of Marsanne at the end, preceded by wee exotic fruits or Riesling, oily-petrol style moments. Great with sauced fish, VieilleFrancecuisine – pork, fricasée of crayfish, raviolis with ginger. Successful wine. 13.5°. 2016-17  June 2011

2007

mild yellow robe; honey-butter aroma – it is more rounded than Les Tanneurs 2007, shows a little pear, a touch of saltiness and butter. The palate has a stone fruit apricot flavour, with definite heart. It tightens up and closes down and grips as it nears the end. This has red wine features on the palate, is also more mainstream than Les Tanneurs Saint-Péray. A wine suited to more formal cooking (that's good for Anne-Sophie, donc). 2014-15  Dec 2008

2006

light yellow; gracious bouquet, attractive hazelnut, with pear skin and a little butter in behind. The bouquet has shifted since November. The palate flows freely – has a stylish shape and texture, rolls on harmoniously, the fruit keeping going well, always offering. A bonny example of Marsanne that has been well handled, its ripeness well judged, its finesse apparent. High marks for style, a good effortless charm. Good length, finishes on white raisin and cooked plum. 13.5°.  To 2013.  Jan 2008  Previously Nov 2007 *** low profile yellow colour; the nose has a cool tone, shows a hint of apricot, is not very expressive, but has some future. The palate is also dumb, but the texture leans towards the rounded; has some richness, and ends with a fleshy feel. Still young, drink with food. There is a wee burst of late Marsanne typicity in the form of a little bitter clarity. From late 2009. 2013-14  Nov 2007  There was no Pic crop from Le Pin this year after a wild boar attack on the grapes.

2004 ()

sub gold glints in robe; the bouquet fruit is close to the overripe, is charged - shows a touch of damp wool, cooked pear and high tone. Baked tart on the start, in the ripe formula way, with hints of brown sugar. Fat style finish, as directed by the maker. Doesn't really grip the palate - the fat style isn't convincingly embedded. To 2010 June 2006