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The Wines

Syrah (1930s-1950s) from 0.5 hectare of sanded granite soils on Aubert at St Jean de Muzols, rented vineyard, 20% destemmed, 3-week steel vat vinification, wild yeasts, twice daily pumping overs, cap punchings, aged 25% new, 75% 1-2 year 228-litre oak casks 18 months, 2,500 b

2019 ()

(cask) dark red; the nose is reserved, has good depth, black fruits, cassis, licorice, hints of herbs. The palate comes with a stylish debut, fluid red fruits, good life in the tannins, iron-blood late on, a mineral close. There are likeable floral notes in it. It’s very good – 2019 in a nutshell. It’s just about ****(*). 19 years Feb 2020

2018

1) (new 228-litre cask) **** dark robe; the bouquet carries good interest, a subtle tone of mineral, neat blackberry, raspberry fruit. The palate kicks off on the mineral theme, which I associate with this site, its texture fine, powdery – it’s very typical, also via the red fruits, floral notes. It ends on oak, and extra thickness from that. It has a lot of style, is serious, with complexity. 17 years 2) (also new 228-litre cask) **** dark red; red fruit, toasted airs, overt red cherry on the nose. The palate is firm, mineral throughout, holds spine and freshness, its terroir well up to handling the vintage, which shows towards the finish, not throughout. 18 years Feb 2020

2017 ()

dark robe; has a swell, weighted nose, carries Southern fat and generosity, with soaking in the fruit. The palate is also ripe, gourmand, very plump, gathers a little grain towards the finish. There’s a battle between terroir and vintage, so wait six years for the vintage to back off. The tannins are wrapped into it, are ripe, layered. There’s quite a mass of wine here. Decant it. 15° says a lot about it. €35 at the cellars. 2035-37 Feb 2020