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The Wines

Syrah (mid-1980s-2008, the 2006-08 Syrah vines are massale) from granite soils on the Peyraud plateau, destemmed crop, 3 week concrete vat vinification, pumping overs at first, cap punching by foot, press wine assembled, aged 4-15 year 228-litre oak casks 12 months, 10-15 mg SO2 applied after oak raising, then steel vat raised 3-4 months, unfined, unfiltered, 10-13,000 b


dark, shiny red. There’s reduction on the nose, which isn’t yet freed up, is on damp soil, has a grunt factor, licorice, needs air. The palate shows better, holds 2016 clarity, and pings along well with a toothsome second half, the fruit true to the finish. The juice is refined. 12°. 2024-25 Feb 2019

2015 ()

dark red. Smoky-oily airs show with rugged depth, near animal notes on the nose, with blackberry fruit, liqueur in style, licorice. This has a texture of smoothness on the outer, a feisty inner. It’s dark wine, the tannins are right here, is early in its journey, is still en route, rather closed, refusenik. There’s good foundation. Decanting advised. “It opens, closes,” Jean Delobre. 13.5°. 10,000 b. Bottled April 2017. €19. From spring 2019. 2025-26 Feb 2018


(steel vat) some darkness in the robe. Blackberry jelly aroma, streamlined and agreeable. The palate fruit is nice and direct, needs to be aired – it resembles black cherry, before a grainy end comes along, with then a final, rounded moment. “At first I thought I would bottle this very fast, but the longer stay helped it – I may bottle it in spring 2010,” Jean Delobre. 2014-15 Dec 2009

2007 No Rating

mid red robe. I find volatile acidity on the nose, in with red cherry. The palate is similar, but becomes very curly at the finish. This is no way José wine, simply not right. Dec 2009 Previously Dec 2008 ** (casks) dark red, a little black in the robe; high tone, varnish, raisin nose – there is black jam in the aroma, with nerve and a green air, cough mixture also – this is a high wire act. Beyond its high tone outer lies black fruit with a smouldering gamey instinct. It ends on that gamey, wee feral note. The interior fruit needs to cover more of its territory. From mid-2010 – decant this, and see how it goes. To 2016. Dec 2008


maturing red robe. Reductive, farmyard aroma that needs air – it gives earthy, gummy black fruit. The palate has acidity around its black fruit, shows mid-plus weight, lengthens a little until a pepper, dust end. Fair, not great. 12.5°. To 2014. Dec 2009


bold, dark cherry robe; broad bouquet of mulled, but fresh black berries with a little earthiness from some reduction. Attractive smoky top note, a little bacon, meatiness, too. A mix of richness and wire on the palate, has an evident mineral thread driving it. Lovely smoky fruit, a berry fest here. Has real saline length, is clear as a bell, but there is lots of underlying matter. STGT and character in this wine. Lovely, expressive wine, full of bounce now. 13°. 2014-15 Sept 2007, Copenhagen Previously Nov 2006 **** quite dark; ripe, oily bouquet – macerated red berries, is good and wide and holds up well. Red berries appear on the attack as well, are rich and sustained. Gourmand style wine – good fruit packing, with a fleshy texture. Well worked, absorbed tannins. Mint and licorice with a nice touch of fire on the finish. A wine of good character. Esp 2008 on. 2015-16 Nov 2006

2003 ()

good, clear bouquet, gentle wild red berry jam aroma. Rounded palate with some grip, shows appealing floral black fruits with correct tannins behind that impart licorice and a sprinkling of dry texture. Good warmth at its heart. Esp 2006 on. 2011-12 March 2005


cherry, spice, good core to the bouquet which is a bit reduced. Live black fruit with some tar and good clarity on palate. Sound length, has an interesting, stylish texture, fine grained. To 2009-10. March 2005 Previously (cask) **(*) firm, quite wide nose; upright cherry fruit, needs bit more matter. Fair length. Fruit from some of the 30 year vines helped, though.


brambly black jam, quite open aroma; genuine cooked plum fruit, narrows rather. Better by 2005. 2009-11