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The Wines

100% Syrah (inc 1973) on limestone above granite soils on Châtelet at Saint-Désirat, 80% destemmed, pre-fermentation cooling 12 hrs at 7-8°C, 21-28 day vinification, pumping overs, cap punching at 1010 specific gravity, aged 40% new, 30% 1-year, 20% 2-year, 10% 1-year oak casks, 33% of them 400-litre, 67% 228-litre, 11 months, unfiltered, 6-7,000 b

2016

dark robe, black and purple. Damp soil, slight reduction on a nose that comes with thick black fruits airs, good density. The palate starts boldly, an immediate delivery of grapey black fruit flavours, nudges of salt and iodine, violets, licorice towards the finish. There is a good couch of ripe tannin substance here, it’s nice and complete, rather sturdy, but well-measured, and the length sustained. The close is fresh, on the up – good. Decant this. 12.8°. Bottled four weeks ago. €16.60 at the cellars. From spring 2019. 2028-30 Nov 2017

2015 ()

dark colour, very black, wee purple. There is a fest of black berry, loganberry fruits on the nose, as well as prune, an intricate nudge of rose-hip. The palate springs out well, carries the trademark freshness, even in this big vintage – that serves it very well, and it goes with good movement. There are sparky notes in its rich content – lots in the glass, good provocation. It carries the middle zone of St Jo thick black fruits, with black olives on the close. “It will be in truly good shape in 15 to 20 years,” Samuel Monier. 13.5°. From 2021. 2034-36 Nov 2017

2009 ()

(2 year cask, Perréol's Châtelet site, sugars, malo completed) big robe; rich and dense nose – we are in jam territory here, despite the relative altitude, crushed raisin air, too. The palate sets off richly, offers a controlled sweetness, and imparts a floral leaning at the end. Length OK. 2020-22 Dec 2009

2008 ()

quite full red, dark traces. Rather reductive top air, with clear blackberry below – decant this. Scented, nice wide fruit on the palate – it is discreetly tasty at half way, with fine tannins entering, and a mineral, airy moment on the finish. Fine-bodied, accessible wine which is still upright, but its freshness is winning. 2016-17  Dec 2009