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The Wines

70% granite wine – Chaillot, Les Côtes, Tézier, Mazards, Champelrose - 30% clay-limestone from the lower south facing part of Chaillot, oldest Syrah 1973, destemmed, 18-25 day vinification, plots fermented apart and assembled at bottling, pumping overs, part vat emptying/refilling, cap punching, aged 15-25% new, 75-85% 1-2 year 228-litre oak casks 12 months, unfiltered, first wine 2004 - called Cornas before then, 15-18,000 b

2017

(casks) black-purple rim robe. The nose shows grilling, cool black fruit, has reserve, ripeness from the prune fruit presence underneath. The palate is rich, savoury, bears extended, slightly rocky tannins that add some inky depth to the second half. This stands well in the glass, has good shape and potential, will develop over time, is a genuine Cornas with chewy depth on the slightly oaked finish. From 2021. 2037-39 Dec 2018

2016 ()

(casks) dark red. The nose gives a mild, lightly sweet aroma of blackberry, with a note of baking around it, a more grapey, black raisin effect. The palate bears discreet blackcurrant, blueberry fruit with a trim initial line of tannin; it runs steadily, no Show Biz here, with a solid length. The tannins are a bit dry. It’s a slow burn wine that will gradually display more cards from its sleeve. Its juice accumulates well before the aftertaste, which is the point of most debate for now. 13.5°. From 2020. 2030-33 Nov 2017

2015

(casks) shiny, deep red robe. Beef stock, red meat airs circulate on the nose, with a tight aroma of raspberry and blackberry behind. It’s as tight as a drum. The palate is muscular, bears intense dark berry fruit, mulberry and loganberry, and really hits the line running. Impressive, delightful Cornas here. It has very good heart and profound length, is a winner. The balance and freshness are both on the money. 13.5°. From mid-2019. 2034-37 Oct 2016

2014

(casks) shiny, deep robe. The bouquet is broad and reserved, comes with plenty of potential. There is a baked, compressed quality to the fruit, a note of black raisin, smoke and violet. The palate is nicely sturdy and well filled. It has a savoury black jam flavour, with a sense of rays of sunshine given via its steady depth. The finish is broad, well charged. It captures 2014 with an added dimension of compact strength, too. 13°. From 2018. 2026-28 GB £88/6 b in bond The Wine Society +441438 740 222 www.thewinesociety.com Oct 2015 

2013

dark robe. Has a rather tightly sealed nose – raspberry and blackberry – it doesn’t give a lot of display, but has a comfortable ripeness, an air of brioche baked bread. The palate offers loose-limited, dark cherry fruit with a small knuckle of late tannin, a clean finale. It is cleanly struck, nicely broad, has tannic width. For now it is hidden, but the fruit can unwrap and develop, and it can gain a bit more depth. The aftertaste is peppery. From spring 2017. 2026-28  GB £240/12 bots in bond Berry Brothers 0800 280 2440 +44(0)207 022 8973  www.bbr.com  GB £96/6 bots in bond The Wine Society +441438 740 222 www.thewinesociety.com Jan 2015

2012 ()

(casks) sustained robe; has a careful, detailed, subtle-noted bouquet, a collection of precise contributors – pure black fruit, wee peony/violet, licorice. The palate glistens with supple, tasty black fruit, carries itself long through the palate. This is a swish, swell Cornas, gives a smooth serving of Syrah and its black fruit. The tannins fit in well, adding depth and even juice. This flourishes on the finish, where a little more content could be present, but may develop. From 2016. 2025-26 Nov 2013

2011 ()

(bottling in two weeks) dark colour; hedge fruit aroma that mixes elder and black berries. There is some crunchy, nutty oak inside, a light violet air. The palate has a wide block of dark fruit, with tannins pressing their case, running the show late on. The late palate is well-founded, the aftertaste spiced. A clearly struck Cornas with a taste of Bovril, meat stock at the finish. It is modern over local for now. Serious wine that fills the glass. Not as profound as 2010, but is good. From 2016. 2026-27. 14,500 b this year.   Nov 2012

2010 ()

(casks) dark, full robe. Blackberry air which is not yet complete and only partially shows; there is a murmur of violet around it, a sandy grain in the air, licorice traces. It is mainstream Cornas on the palate – black fruit with some juiciness. Tannins affirm themselves in the final third or so. A Regular Guy wine, traditional style. The acidity comes through on the front of the mouth. Decant this. From 2014. 2023-25 Nov 2011

2009

(casks) full, dark red, purple rim. Wide, cracking nose with life in it, its fruit a mix of briskness and ripeness – it is notably clear, smoky, the fruit a red-black berry combo. There is good style in the palate fruit, that spreads well; has a polished finesse, while nutty tannins shape up the finish. The juice of the fruit keeps running, ends on a good, oily texture. Has fine length, an almost delicate sign-off. Good balance. A real rocker, excellent modern Cornas. From late 2012. 2021-23 Nov 2010

2008 ()

three-quarter depth red. Oak and honey mix on the nose – it is sweet and perfumato, is also reductive, has a meaty side, and is still in the thick of its raising. There is a grainy thread through the palate, which holds conservative black fruit. A rather fine style of Cornas, has blackberry fruit and black pepper on the finish, the fruit bright and continuous. There is quite a lot going on in this, is a wine to decant, one that will reward patience. Tarry late touches show up. From mid-2011. 2019-20 Dec 2009

2007 ()

oak topping to the bouquet, with a harmonious raspberry fruit beyond it, and even an air of green olives. Oak again masks the attack on the palate, but the mid-palate has a steady richness; the wine runs on with fresh lines, a black pepper seasoning in it – the granite tang. From spring 2011. 2019-20 March 2009 Previously Dec 2008 ***(*) dark robe with a slight matt tone. Has a prune, black fruits aroma of depth – there is vanilla present, a touch of meatiness or downhome, too: there is a confident future ahead. The palate delivers a steady run of black fruit, with a pick-up of mineral and light tar as it goes – it is well handled and comes over nicely. The length is good, and there is typical local freshness as it finishes – a burst of clarity, mineral. Pretty wine. From mid-2010. Bottled last week. 2019-21 Dec 2008

2006 ()

2 bottles tasted/drunk, the first shows some taint. Bottle 2: still sustained, good and full red robe. There is lift on the nose, a light coffee aroma, prune as well – there is attractive clarity here. It speaks of Cornas and its mineral, and advances and gains as it breathes, moving towards violets and more roundness. The attack is well collected, holds plum fruit, sweet spices and a fine detail, fresh finish. This is light on its feet, and is making mature, comfortable progress. The finish is spiced, with a little note of date. The elngth is sound – it keep ticking over. 13°. 2024-25  Jan 2015  Previously March 2009 ***(*) good red robe; has a light grain/floral nose with black cherry the prime fruit. The palate fruit has a softening nature, followed by oak towards the finish. This moving towards a gourmand suppleness – I would leave it until autumn 2009. The fruit revives well at the end, and this is w.o.w. wine in the making – drink from 2010 for that, enjoy. To 2017 March 2009 Previously Dec 2007 ****(*) (casks) full, black robe; the nose is profound, served up with some roundness – curvaceous black fruits in it. The palate is well-knit, with black fruits that have a definite tannin-oak presence, and a good, clear mineral tone at the finish. Still finding its feet, but the fruit is crisp and well-set. From mid-2010. It has abit more scale and intensity than the Prémices. 2022-24 Dec 2007

2005 ()

quite a full, dark robe; the nose has some mineral within its reserve and rather stiff nature now: the main fruit air is raspberry. The palate is locked up, with some richness evident from half way. Continues within a tight frame, and its tannins lie on the outside towards the finish. The fruit quality is pretty pure and clear. Good local feel. From mid-2009. 2020-22 Dec 2007

2004 ()

good dark red laced with black. Peppery, black fruit aroma with an earthy underlay, some of the local violet in it, is nicely of the earth. Good combo of clean fruit with some funkiness, maybe reduction, in with the tannins. Wholesome drink, shows character and well-managed, properly ripe crop helps it along. Vigorous, clear wine with decisive length. April 2006

2003 ()

good black robe. Sunny, quite warm fruit bouquet with some pepper and a floral drift. Berry fruit which plunges out well at the start, is oily and flows ripely until a gummy, tannic-layered finish. Fruit is good and clear. Esp 2007-08 on. 2013-15 Dec 2005 Previously (casks) **** smoky, soaked dark fruit aroma, some sweetness. Savoury, oily fullness; blackberries run through. Big, wholesome, tannins ripe and support its structure. Rich without the dryness of some wines. Chaillot has played a main, temperance role. 2007-08 on. 2018-22

2002 ()

quite big, soaked bouquet, prune/oak, bit heavy. Macerated fruit style, fruit persists OK. Oak brings peppery finish, dries it. Not at ease now, has moved around in last year, fruit was clearer. 2006 on. 2011-13

2001 ()

grilled airs, with berries, black fruit on the nose; suave black fruit, licorice on the palate. Decent finesse, correct length. Quite fine and accessible. 2006 on. 2014-17

2000

(magnum) the nose is rather earthy, a little reductive, but plum stewed fruit lies within the bouquet. The palate is also a little flat – its red fruit flavour lacks brightness and its general demeanour is sombre. It can drink like this until 2011, but is not at its best here today (Ampuis). March 2009 Previously *** reduced, elegant bouquet; well-moulded, compact fruit in a live attack. Some ripe tannins, length OK. 2005-06 on. 2014-16

1999

leather and fruit, varied aromas; sleek black fruits, then robust surge on the palate. Tanninsare a bit distanced from the flesh. 2009-11.

1998

gamey aromas. Solid, with richness, fungal aspects on palate. House elegance here, but can age, esp 2004 on. Mineral end. 2008-12.

1997 ()

nice, rather oily bouquet - black, suave fruit, touch tarry. Fresh attack - early depth, then zest from tannins. Has a heated, almost burnt edge that other local wines do not possess, and the minerality. Will be singing around 2004-05. To 2011-12

1996 ()

(magnum) a slow-burn vintage – the robe is still largely red, though it has mottled a little. The nose is bright, shows good, perky red fruits and mineral airs. The palate is also moving well, there is good matter and acidity. It drinks well in this magnum form. Has a good, clear finish. To 2015. March 2009