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The Wines

50-60% Marsanne (2009), 40-50% Roussanne (2009), from clay-limestone, white soils, loess on Le Haut Chatagnier on the southern slopes of Crussol at 280 metres, 15-20% new, 10-40% 1-3 year 228-litre oak cask, 40-75% steel vat fermented, varieties together, raised 7 months, lees stirred, filtered, 3,000 b

2018

rather sturdy yellow robe; the nose is reserved, but nicely full, can offer plenty over time. There is a note of grilling, with a hint of petrol, ripe white fruits, pineapple even. The attack is rich, in the instant, the texture squeezy, the gras sure in depth. It develops a little red wine structure towards the finish, is built to evolve and last well. Its length is certain, and the finish pretty clear. It has the weight for turbot, halibut, monkfish. From mid-2020, can be decanted. 14°. 2029-30 Nov 2019

2016

yellow robe. Has a broad, upfront bouquet – a good, clear tang, snap of ginger, with plum fruit, a note of mango. It’s a good start, comes out freely; there’s toasting from oak. The palate glides on soft, mild content with an essence of white fruits such as nectarine, a touch of banana, in the flavour. There is a good freshness right through it, and it drinks vibrantly; there is a touch of carbonic gas in the late stages – ginger, apricot there. It gives a good Marsanne display, is w.o.w. wine, a real palate enhancer. Oak and toffee appear on the aftertaste. 13.5°. To 2022 Jan 2018

2015

shiny, full yellow. The nose gives an air of stewed apricot, with a little saltiness and a note of infused tea such as camomile. It persists on the vintage ripeness. The palate is well nuanced with subtle prompts, nothing too obvious; there are notes of crab-apple, guava jelly that imply the presence of Roussanne and its refining powers. The length is rock steady. 14°. 2021-22 Oct 2016

2014

shiny full yellow colour. The bouquet sits on the back foot, doesn’t show openly; there is a subdued air of cooked lemon, a note of nuts, brioche bread. It is wide, and will certainly deliver more. The palate holds stylish gras richness with pockets of freshness keeping a spring in its step. Clear, well made Saint-Péray, one with STGT leanings, a mineral presence that really sits in it well. 60% Mars, 40% Rouss. 13.5°. 2020-21  Oct 2015

2013

3 bottles tasted, first 2 not quite right. Bottle 1 ** yellow; musty, cardboard air, flan, baked apply, caramel. This isn’t a clear, convincing start. The palate bears stewed fruits with spicing, gathers a apricot, slight banana flavour. A soft, low acidity wine, perhaps young vines (tasted blind). The finish is timid. To 2017 Bottle 2 ** same nose, vanilla touches. The palate is light. Bottle 3 *** yellow robe. Mandarin, damp straw aroma, a note of liquid honey and apricot jam: a varied bouquet. The palate has an elegant richness, offers further notes of cooked citrus fruits, is clean as it ends. Cosy, straightforward drinking, all cards on table now. 13.5° To 2017  Jan 2015