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The Wines

vat, oak cask-fermented, raised 6 months, heavy bottle, “drink as aperitif, or with fish, foie gras”

2017

pear skin, low gold tinted robe. The nose gives an aroma mixing cooked apple with banana, pear in syrup, is sturdy and sustained, also suggests a little Riesling petrol. The palate is solid from the off, deeply set with latent power near far away from the surface, the finish giving gasp. The flavour is an intense crushed pear, with apricot. This is dogged wine, all too much for me: it lacks charm and relief, outline. 14.5°. 2022-23 Dec 2018

2016 ()

has a yellow robe with pear tints. The nose has an apple, pear with syrup aroma, a hint of banana. It’s a solid intro, and the palate is also well packed, full and firm. There’s a little tannin along the sides, all encased it is, very much a table wine. It’s quietly potent. It’s not refined, but I like its heart, compact depth. It’s very much up for white meats, sauced fish. There’s tight grip on the close. Decanting advised. 14°. 2023-24 Feb 2018

2015 ()

clear yellow robe. Cooked banana, ripe pear, pear in syrup airs start the nose, which also has a ginger aspect. The palate gives a tight, toasted display of white fruits, apricot to the fore, also white peach. There is some of the richness vintage in the late texture, a fat smoothness. The length is OK. 2020-21 Oct 2016

2011

pale yellow. Has a forward air of oak, its toasting up front. Cooked pear and vanilla from the oak lie in behind the front mask of oak. The palate has a sturdy, quite rich start; the flavour mixes citrus fruit, lime marmalade, with oak then re-appearing. A little four-square, a wine that could show more charm, more relaxation. It ends on a compact, nutty note. Food the better option – white meats, poultry. It is a bit plain, but can evolve. Decant this. From mid-2013. To 2017. Nov 2012

2007 ()

very heavy bottle – BOO! Opaque, mid-level yellow robe; has quite a liberated bouquet – gives a sprinkle of spice and white pepper, green apple along with apricot and vanilla, the latter more usual. On the palate it is a wine of sinew and direct purpose that runs on its power – high octane in nature, foot on the pedal form its cellar handling. Beefy Condrieu, not for faint hearts. Food such as white meats, chicken best with it. The length is fair, even if rather charged. 14°. Ends firmly. To 2011. Dec 2008

2000 ()

nicely full, pear bouquet; some fat, apricot flavour, with light pear aftertaste. Gently full, slightly burnt end.