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The Wines

33-36% Syrah, 0-33% Grenache, 33-64% Mourvèdre (vines mid-1980s) from oldest vineyards on clay-limestone, galet stone slopes, some sand, destemmed, 5-6 week vinification, cap punching, twice daily pumping overs, aged new 300-litre oak casks 12 months, filtered, “drink with beef in a pepper or red wine sauce, beef stew, rabbit stew, jugged hare, Tournedos Rossini, chocolate desserts”, heavy bottle, 8,000-8,800 b


full, dark red robe; the bouquet has scale, depth, if not being very precise. There is a vanilla-oak hover, the air encouraging more oak and smoke, plums fruits within. The palate gives a wavy, fleshy roll of content, with cherry fruit and oak mingling on the second half, the oak ruling the aftertaste. There is richness within, but the oak stands in excess. If you have old vineyards, why are you seemingly compelled to mask their nobility and natural richness with lashings of oak? If you like oak, come here. Bottle no. 1376. 14.5°. 64% Mourv, 36% Syrah, strange to include no Grenache. €15.35 at the cellars. 2025-26 Oct 2020


dark robe; oak smoke, charcoal airs circulate above the bouquet, an inlay of licorice and small black berry fruits, some accentuated ripeness in the fruit. It’s a slightly formulaic opening. The palate holds black fruits with an easy hand-out, moves along soundly, goes into a dark phase as the oak and tannins cluster on the finish. This is an old story of attractive fruit clad in excess oak. It’s modern, respectable, but doesn’t stir the soul: it will have its willing takers. 14.5°. 64% Mourv, 36% Syrah. From late-2020. 2032-34 May 2019


bright, dark red. Has a swish, swell bouquet that gives a gush of black fruits, sweetness built in, prune, ripe, stewed fruits, a trace of iodine/salt, some lurking reduction. The palate sequels well from the nose, also is free and well-juiced, bears an open abundance of black stone fruit with touches of black olives. There is pebbly grip on the close, with oak-caramel in the late flavour. Its generosity will please; drink from spring 2019 for further oak inclusion. I like the mid-palate – there’s a n eat spot of black juice there. 15°. 8,800 b. €17.10. 50% Syrah, 50% Mourvèdre this year. 2025-26 Aug 2018


deep red robe. Has a thick style of bouquet formed in part by its oak, comes with a black cherry, soaked nature, a touch of blackberry. At first, the palate has enough gras for the oak, a fluid centre, blueberry fruit and licorice in the flavour. The oak emerges out on its own on the finish, so the last take is one of the cellar rather than the vineyard. From late-2018, and just maybe more oak integration by then. 14.5°. 2022-23 Dec 2017


dark, bright robe with a full black centre. The bouquet is very broad, gushes out, mixes blackberry and licorice – the fruit is soaked, but still quite fresh. The palate continues in this gushing way, a lot of juicy blackberry at first. Tannins and tar run in from half way, and it broadens towards the finish. Unbridled, modern wine that lacks a little finesse, but I give it marks for raw bounty. The finish could be more refined. 15°. To 2017  July 2011


bright, dark robe. There is active acidity in the nose, which is a bit edgy, angular, has some burnt notes. The palate is crunched together, holds smoky black fruit, a bosky and oak side to it. The result is a confused wine, not relaxed. The fruit lacks imprint. 14.5°. €12.70. 2014-15  Dec 2009