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The Wines

100% Clairette (1950s-1980s), on limestone-slight clay, siliceous soils, hand harvested, 225 & 350-litre oak cask fermented, raised 5-6 months with lees stirring, filtered, “drink with white meats, free range chicken, fish, scrambled eggs with truffles, asparagus”, 2,500 b

2017

yellow, slight pear-toned robe. The nose is dumb, a suggestion of banana, stewed white fruits, aniseed. It has the depth to evolve and emerge, has a smooth quality. The palate is suavely textured, oak-vanilla, nut paste involved, has confirmed heart, is solid, a bit tannic along the second half. It finishes solidly, close-knit. It’s very much table wine, serve in a large glass, allow time. The content is pear, nutty, sealed. There is a note of aniseed, fennel on the aftertaste – it’s clear there, with discreet weight, the length good. This is all about potential. 13°. 2,500 b. €8. From spring 2020. 2028-29 Sept 2018

2016 ()

very pale yellow robe. The nose is reserved, hands out a streamlined, near bracing, direct air of pear, a nudge of white strawberry and aniseed. You feel there is more to give if it is allowed time. There is a slight note of toffee from the oak. The palate is a tight affair, based on fresh and fine acidity, the northern take on a southern wine with cool finesse the prime motivator. There is a balance between fine gras and freshness. The aftertaste is lightly salted, nutty. As it’s dumb, decant it if drinking now, or wait until spring 2018. It is indeed Confidentail. Air brings out oaking, and that coarsens it. 13°. 2023-24 June 2017

2009 ()

sound light yellow; has a honeycomb aroma with poised light oaking along with hazelnut and banana-flan notes, the latter more from the cellar. Apricot with a flash of late fennel in its flavour. Has good heart, a classy presentation. The banana-flan crop up in the mid-palate. From spring 2012 for less oak, and can be decanted. The length is correct. A modern, not terroir, wine that drinks quite easily already. 13.5°. To 2017-18. July 2011