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The Wines

70% Clairette blanche, Clairette rose (1930s and older), 20% Viognier, 10% Grenache blanc from filtering, sand, silty soils at St Geniès-de-Comolas, 12-18 hr cold decantation, fermented 3 weeks at 18°C, concrete vat raised 6 months, filtered, malo 50% completed, “drink with daurade fish in tarragon & fennel, prawn & avocado salad”, 4,000 b

2019

pale yellow colour, a hint of vanilla; the bouquet leads on a classic Clairette aroma of aniseed-fennel, has an apricot sidekick, is an interesting opening. It’s stylish, with more to come. The palate is graciously textured, really smooth as silk, coasts along with pedigree white fruits, touches of apricot-tangerine in the flavour, a late note of petrol, Riesling-esque. There’s much to stimulate the mind and palate, and its serene feathered caress late on is most appealing. 13°. €11.50 at the Château. 2025-26 Oct 2020

2016

yellow robe with a pear skin tint. The nose is stylish, serene, gives pear fruit from the bandit Viognier, but that influence is subdued, integrated. There is a fennel-aniseed take, some lime freshness, and overall it has a safe depth. Air brings out an orange blossom aroma. The palate is lined with neat gras, a flavour of compote of white fruits. It builds in intensity towards the finish, and ends on fine juice, the inner elegance of low yield old vine crop. It holds great Clairette blanche typicity, while the oak has been sensitively handled, a light trit trot of that. It expands and gains nourishing fat as it breathes, and glides as only an old vines wine can. 13°. 2024-25 June 2017

2015 ()

fine yellow colour. The nose is graceful, assured: peach and nectarine feature, with a note of camomile, white strawberry, aniseed (typical of Clairette). It’s a good start, indeed. The palate picks up well from the nose, offers elegant fruit and content, all finely tuned by some soft acidity. A superior white Côtes based on unfussy winemaking. I like its detail and purity. I would prefer to drink it à table, with steamed dishes, noodles. Decanting will help to open it. 13°. 4,000 b. €5.65. To 2021 June 2016