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The Wines

mostly 1970s Marsanne on Hongrie site, 70% own vineyards, 30% purchased grapes, mixes crop from granite and limestone soils, 48 hour cool decantation, then fermented at 18-20° C, 20-25% in oak, 70-75% in vat, raised 70-75% steel vat, 25-30% 1-2-3 year old 600-litre oak casks on lees 6 months, then oak & vat assembled, bottled after 7-8 months, malo completed, 12-13,000 b

2016

yellow robe, green tints, shine. Lime, liquid honey, vanilla are mixed in a restrained nose. It needs coaxing out, so decant it. This is New wave Rhône white, based on a fine, smooth texture, with mild gras only. There are touches of citrus through it, but it becomes escapist towards the finish. Mild and rather dull it is. Where is its central content, the depth one wants? A floral wine, we are nearly in the Loire here! It can serve as an aperitif. To 2022 Feb 2018

2015

yellow robe. The noose offers a stylish, floral and white fruits mix, a neatness in the fruit, with crab-apple and soft lemon present. There is a hint of aniseed freshness, a direct line of that. The palate is elegant with a white flowers, soft peach-plum jam flavour, and dainty, fresh length. This drinks well an orb of pleasure, all delivered in a soft and mild register. It will be a charming aperitif, or with starters, steamed foods. 13°. 2020-21 Oct 2016

2014

light yellow robe. The bouquet gives a typical Marsanne mix of apricot, white fruits, almonds and hazelnuts, has cut. The palate is linear, clear, holds a small gras richness, ends on more nuttiness and the grip of the Marsanne. This is granite-inspired wine with tension in it. It will accompany steamed fish, scallops, prawns well. It has a very good aftertaste, lovely freshness there. 13.5°. €15.15 is very fair. 2020-22  Oct 2015 

2013 ()

yellow robe. There is a quiet style on the nose, which mixes citrus with spice and the tang of Marsanne; it has a gentle quality. The palate is well poised, bears a bonny, fine white fruit with precise acidity at its heart. Suited to the aperitif or light flavours. Trim, well made Saint-Péray. 13.5° €13.25 at the cellars. To 2019 Jan 2015

2012

(casks) pale yellow, green hints. The bouquet is enjoyable, gracious, round and openly fruited – there are good, squeezy white fruits, flan and vanilla, with toasting. The palate emphasizes a rich, controlled food-friendly style: white plum, a coated texture. Good body and heart. There is a Marsanne tang, a lime marmalade close in a fresh finish. Decant this. 2021-22 Nov 2013

2011

rather fat yellow colour, legs; mixed bag of fennel-aniseed, verbena (verveine) airs in abroad sweep bouquet, that comes with honeycomb and hazelnut that add authentic touches for a Marsanne wine. This is a good example of Marsanne that retains its tang and grip, may be bitter for some. The ripeness in its fruit isn’t exaggerated, is correct. Best with roast white meats, meat patés, caillette. It has local feel, with the cellar work not overdone. Not as deep and fat as the New School St-Pérays – more tight and grippthan them. Hazelnut and vanilla feature on the aftertaste, which is a bit pinched. Decant this. 13°. To 2018  Nov 2012

2010

mild, pale robe; has a good, clear nose – comes with a dancing freshness, spice-mineral airs, a breezy, ripe lime, oak detectable. The palate is more close-knit than the nose, although the theme of freshness continues. It can just do the aperitif, but will develop weight over the next two years, for instance. Has fair length, but is a bit tame on the finish. 13°. To 2018 June 2011

2009

yellow robe; peach, scented jam aroma that is fat and round, shows cooked fruits, a spiced trail – the bouquet gives some finesse. Supple, rather soft appeal on the palate, which has an easy generosity all through, never skips a beat. A regular, unpretentious wine with some local virtue. Can do the aperitif. To 2015. July 2010

2008

mid-depth yellow; gracious nose, has a combo of apricot and minerality, is nice and free, inviting. The palate has a dried white fruits flavour and good, secure gras richness that is shapely, and not in excess. Length is fair. To 2015. July 2010

2007

mild yellow; vanilla pod, dried fruits nose with pleasant width: sustains well, has clear snap in it from its limestone origins. Creamy, apricot/flan flavour, with hazelnut biter and grip after half way. Good body, sound length, good clarity. Persistent, and I like its late width. A rare example of w.o.w. and STGT together. Food, rather than apero wine. Ends on its local freshness, is long. Fish such as monkfish or sea bass, with a lemon sauce, or chicken - great with this. 13.5°. €12, same as the Crozes Meysonniers, no contest there. To 2013. Dec 2008

2006 ()

mild yellow robe; honey-hazelnut aroma, with agreeable round airs, and some typicité. The palate is pretty full, and very Marsanne in nature: is led by a taste of honeycomb, with dried fruits and a little vanilla also. Good grip late on. Has a solid, compact make-up, and just some end heat. Drink now, can go with food well. Ends decisively. 13.5°. 2013-14 Jan 2008 Previously Nov 2007 *** low key yellow colour; buttery, latently broad bouquet – honeycomb outcrops, dried fruits, is softly presented. Overtly mineral, firm wine, not a soft bunny at all on the palate. The attack shows spiced white fruits, with a raisin tang. Tightens at the end, and closes on a firm, mineral note. Good length. From mid-2009. 13.5°. To 2013-15 Nov 2007

2005 ()

definite yellow. Evenly shaped bouquet, led by its Marsanne hazelnut, with some brown sugar rendering it round. Round and facile, easy access wine. Carries cooked white fruits, peach stone fruit, and has some late grip. Nice flow to it; has a custard aftertaste. A bonny do, can work well as an aperitif. 2009-10 Nov 2006

2004 ()

well balanced, harmonious bouquet - pear, a little petrol and flan - main impression is elegance. Comfortably set flavour, a refined wine with good balance. Very easy and agreeable drinking, wow (what one wants). Good aperitif, stylish, bonny, typical. Some end hazelnut, rich finale, length good. Fine and lovely now. 2010-11 June 2006

2003 ()

locked up bouquet after 14 months, will be full, butter and spice, some refinement. Full Marsanne wine, not aperitif, needs food and patience. Flavour is custard, apricot, with nuts. More varied from 2006, can show well around 2008-09 in early middle age.

2002

peachy aroma, touch burnt; fair, mid-weight palate, lacks true core. Length a bit tenuous, buttery end.

2001 ()

sappy, welcoming nose, good sap. Juicy, plump wine, sound length. Plum/apricot flavour, good length. Elegant. 2009-10

2000 ()

quite fat, peppery/mineral nose; starts dumb, white fruit/asparagus late on. Bit empty on end, better in 2004.

1999 ()

good floral, mineral backdrop nose; nicely elegant, cool texture with quiet persistence, fresh end, length good.