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The Wines

1960s, 1970s Marsanne from Arras down to Mauves, mostly purchased crop, since 2006 90% vat fermented, raised, 10-15% 3 year old 600-litre oak casks fermented, raised 9-10 months, (before 2006 75% vat), lees stirred, 25-30,000 b

2014 ()

½ bottle: firm yellow robe. Ginger-apricot, typical Marsanne notes on the nose, infused tea such as camomile, cooked lemon also. It’s an authentic start. The palate gives dried fruits, carbonic gas, ends on that pep, stem ginger, a flash of freedom. There is rather stylish gras within, neatly presented. Fine late crunch on the finish comes, with grip. It keeps going well, with orange marmalade and spearmint touches in support. 13.5°. 2022-23 Oct 2016

2013

yellow robe; hazelnut, ginger, lime, classic Marsanne aroma, cooked pear in behind. The palate runs along straight channels, the white fruit and cooked citrus fruits lined with a little tannin. It ends with a low-key chewiness, toughens there. Decant it. 13.5°. 2022-23  Jan 2015

2012

pale yellow; aniseed-licorice air precedes an appealing subset of cooked peach, spring flowers such as acacia. For now, the bouquet isn’t showing all it can do in depth. This is stylish above all; it offers well modulated waves of attractive white fruits with a velvet glove increase in grip as it goes. Precise and authentic – serve this in a large glass with fish such as sea bass, daurade, loup de mer. Traditional, well made wine with a strong, near floral appeal – it is w.o.w., very drinkable, and will go well with soft cheese. 13.5°. 2020-21  Nov 2013

2011 ()

fair yellow colour. Aniseed, greengage plum fruit aroma with a classic Marsanne hazelnut-honey core. The palate is close-knit, carries the restraint of 2011, with a fennel, tea infusion note towards the finish. A tight wine, a bit on the edge. From mid-2013. 13.5°. €18 at the cellars. To 2018-19.  Nov 2012

2010

subdued yellow; apricot-peach, nicely free bouquet with a spice sprinkle. The bouquet is engaging, nice and free. The palate also reflects cool airs, drinks well solo, or would be great with saucisson, in a zinc counter bar. It ends with matter, and keeps going. Finishes well, with grip. Convivial wine, w.o.w. It can take a second stage, but is great drinking all on its youth. 13.5°. 2018-19 June 2011

2009

yellow, flint notes; greengage, white plum, salty airs – a broad but good and active bouquet here that is typically Marsanne in nature. Fine fruit and a hazelnut flavour on the palate, which has been made gently, and not overforced – an achievement in 2009. Pretty good length, a calm finish that gives a little honey and sound clarity. 13.5°. To 2016. €15.50 at the cellars. July 2010

2008

matt yellow colour; flan-custard, apricot nose with good Marsanne typicity. Good poise on the palate – its white fruit is gentle, persistent in that vein. There is “space”, breeze in it, fine length. Can do the aperitif, is ready now. To 2014. July 2010

2007

yellow traces in the robe; has a white pepper, vanilla-almond aroma, a hint of butter as well. There is anice weave of sinew in the palate – it is direct and shows granite tension. It is “on the steel” for now, closed. There is late mandarin and dried fruit taste. This is a wine that augurs well, the length is discreet and persistent. 13.5°. To 2015-16. Jan 2008

2006

full yellow, with some apricot in the robe; the nose has a full, flan style aroma, like crème patisserie, is pretty wide, and also has some low-key peach in its air. The palate is rather savoury in a traditional style, with clean lines. Has a very typical Marsanne roundness and hazelnut taste with dried fruits coming along late on. Runs well and consistently, and bears good richness with late grip. Beau, a nice do. 2012-13 Nov 2007

2005 ()

yellow robe; brown sugar and a bit of pear drop on the nose, has some roundness of a sort, with also a toasted, almost leathery-nutty effect. The palate starts mildly with a mineral touch in the stone fruit, comes over as typical Marsanne from the granite (tasted blind) at the finish, where it acquires a tight, rather peppery nature, a sort of “tac-tac” burst that you would never get from a white Crozes. Has local character. 2010. Dec 2006

2003

elegant honey/floral aroma, quite low acidity, has poise. Soft, low profile, nutty wine. Decent richness, quietly done. Safe wine.

2002

quite broad, not very profound nose; supple, cooked fruit, stuttering length.

2001

melted butter, creamy nose; stone fruit/juniper. Quite tight. Mineral, dry pebbly end. esp 2004-05. To 2010-11

2000

ripe grape skin, citronelle/spice aroma; sinewy texture, some mineral with light honey end. Fair core. Sound wine.

1999

touch of advance on robe; pear/pineapple floating aroma; white peach on attack, drier end. Stone fruit is OK.