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The Wines

100% Marsanne from granite-based soils at Charnas (middle zone), Tournon & Mauves (south zone), whole bunch pressed, wild yeasts, fermented, raised mostly new 600-litre oak casks 8-10 months, lees stirred first 2 months, organic wine

2016

has a glistening, sturdy yellow colour. The nose is on the dumb side, has a light air of flan, white peach, some mandarin. It has the depth to hold up well and to bloom. It will always be full, table friendly wine. The palate has crème patisserie, layered texture and content, a rich and satisfying mid-palate, before a white raisin spot of grip on the finish. There are nudges of citrus freshness along its way. It keeps going with a steady hand, no missed beats. There is a good cluster of tangy flavour, very Marsanne, on the end and aftertaste. It is wholesome, has real good local expression. 13.5°. 2028-30 Feb 2018

2015

yellow robe, with sheen; a pastis aroma leads the nose, with quince, guava ripeness in behind. The palate is marked by carbonic gas on the attack, which is an immediate distraction. There is a flavour of cooked lemon, with peach as it goes, with the finish rounded, a little honey there. It loses character and authority via the cellar work, becomes a face in the crowd. 13°. 2021-22 Oct 2016

2013

2 bottles tasted. 1st bottle: yellow; cork taint. 14° Bottle 2: shiny full yellow. Has a ripe, round bouquet with a natural fat at its heart; brioche bread and a light note of mandarin show through, but it is hardly firing today. The palate holds smooth, well formed gras richness with a bonny depth as it finishes. It is suave and nicely full, with an accurate Marsanne-inspired close that involves camomile tea and a light orange tang. Decant this. €26.25 at the cellars. 2026-28  Jan 2015

2012 ()

(casks) mild yellow colour. The bouquet’s soft air is led by pear, beeswax, has internal strength, potential, is serious. Has a near petrol-like depth also. This has a shapely, broad debut with fine elegance of gras richness, a light peach and quince note, fennel, infused tea also. It carries its gras in upright, reserved manner for now. The flavour involves tangerine, wee touches of exotic fruits. Has knuckle, lively acidity. A grown-up St Jo, which leans towards stately Hermitage blanc in style. Interesting, polished wine with a confident, effortless depth. €29. 2025-26  Nov 2013

2011 ()

quite a bright yellow; has a rich aroma offering candy, cooked fruits, melted butter and a typical Marsanne honey-hazelnut. It is suited in style to foods. The palate has a rather rich texture, flows well enough. Every part is not yet in place, and it will become more precise in 12 months. It has sufficient gras for risottos and cheeses, is a good, genuine, STGT style St Jo – grounded, oily, not obvious. It has some power, is longer than many St Jo blancs this year, shows Marsanne grip on the finish. 13.5°. 2020-21  Nov 2012